Small update. Engine management light came back on again. I have torque app and it read a code of P2002 which is a diesel particulate filter efficiency below threshold. Getting to the point where I'm losing patience with this trouble some car.
A clutch needing to be bled is normally because there is air in the system. Because air is compressible, if this is the problem, you will find the pedal is going a long way down (near to the floor) before the clutch frees and it will have a spongy, not hard, feel to it. Likewise, after you've selected the gear the clutch will "bite" almost as soon as you start to let the pedal rise. This will not really cause a "heavy" or "hard" pedal. Can you be more specific about what you mean by "Hard"?hello
i'm new here! I have a 2004 JTD MULTIPLA with a clutch peddal really hard. We had the clutch changed couple of eeks ago but since the mechanic is so far, we're trying to figure out if we can solve the problem at home.
I'm trying to find some clutch bleeding tutorial as a last try.... could you give me some tips? I cannot find the slave cylinder nor how to bleed the clutch or the cylinder.
Thanks in advance
Maria
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BTW, since this clutch has a cable, does it mean it's not hidraulic?
Can it be a slave cylinder issue? (We are still trying to find this exact location)
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Maria
That sounds strange. One thing I can think of that could prevent a forced regen is if it the oil quality counter in the ECU is degraded due to the car not having had a recent oil change and ECU oil reset. But I'm sure your garage would know this. Or maybe some sensor reporting an impossible value thus preventing the regen from running? Or some temp or pressure sensor not reporting the expected value change once the forced regen has started? An exhaust leak especially on the engine side of the DPF could also cause issues due to pressure sensors getting unexpected readings..All readings were OK. Only thing is that it would not do a forced regen and stopped saying generic error. - Was advised by DAM Motors that this could be due to a software update?? - Anyone shed any light on this?
Hi Maria,
Left hand drive multiplas (at least the diesels, not sure about petrols and gas versions) have clutch cables whereas right hand drive multiplas have hydraulic clutches. Go figure.Maybe there was no space for a master cylinder in the LHD version. So if your car is LHD there is no slave cylinder, just a long arm, and the cable is connected to the end of it.
The gearboxes are interchangeable though, you just have to move over the bits that are different from the old box.
That sounds strange. One thing I can think of that could prevent a forced regen is if it the oil quality counter in the ECU is degraded due to the car not having had a recent oil change and ECU oil reset. But I'm sure your garage would know this. Or maybe some sensor reporting an impossible value thus preventing the regen from running? Or some temp or pressure sensor not reporting the expected value change once the forced regen has started? An exhaust leak especially on the engine side of the DPF could also cause issues due to pressure sensors getting unexpected readings..
AlfaOBD can track and plot a custom list of selected sensors and other readings to help diagnose this type issue.
If the manual regen won't run then the automated ones for sure won't either and then you will end up with a clogged DPF again before you know it.
Are any error codes seemingly unrelated to DPF coming up or are there other known issues somewhere or is everything in tip top order apart from the failing regens?
Yes that should work. Diagnostics will also tell you if automated regens are being run and how many miles ago the last one ran. You may want to replace the thermostat while you are doing timing belt/water pump as they are fiddly to get at and always broken. If you are getting less than 4 bars normal operating temperature then it is gone. With the engine running too cool (typically 2 bars with a stuck open thermostat) the ECU may decide not to run the regen.
I wouldn't say a lot quicker but it does make a difference.
Ok good to know. The car was toasty when driving yesterday!!If the car now gets to temp it should be able to regenerate the dpf itself
It won't run I'd the engine is below 80c running temp
That sounds strange. One thing I can think of that could prevent a forced regen is if it the oil quality counter in the ECU is degraded due to the car not having had a recent oil change and ECU oil reset. But I'm sure your garage would know this. Or maybe some sensor reporting an impossible value thus preventing the regen from running? Or some temp or pressure sensor not reporting the expected value change once the forced regen has started? An exhaust leak especially on the engine side of the DPF could also cause issues due to pressure sensors getting unexpected readings..
AlfaOBD can track and plot a custom list of selected sensors and other readings to help diagnose this type issue.
If the manual regen won't run then the automated ones for sure won't either and then you will end up with a clogged DPF again before you know it.
Are any error codes seemingly unrelated to DPF coming up or are there other known issues somewhere or is everything in tip top order apart from the failing regens?