Finally some time to share my discoveries about my lovely car. All started at the entrance to the Broadmead multi storey when the clutch bearing gave up the ghost. The noise could be heard inside the shopping centre I was reliably informed.
As it turned out the clutch (original) was in great condition at 113k. Flywheel had negligible play. So ridiculous to have to perform major surgery to change a bearing, but that's life I suppose.
One thing lead to another, and in the last 7 weeks I have replaced the clutch (DMF was fine), the drop links, the anti roll bar bushes, the lower control arms, the rear window regulator (manual), a front strut, a headlight cluster, the complete rear brakes system and one rear bump stop.
I'll start with my thoughts on the clutch, which took 25 hours my wife tells me. My record for changing a Beetle clutch was 27 minutes, so I was optimistic to say the least before starting. The "notes for novices" were excellent, and the time consumption was mainly down to my trying to ignore the advice in the notes, plus the usual rusty bolts and nuts you get at 113k. Had to drill out one of the bell housing bolts completely and replace it with a longer one and a nut.
One thing I did discover was that I did not need to remove the sub-frame. In fact leaving it in situ was positively helpful. I only found out on reassembly. I started off with the gearbox rotated through 90 degrees, and then slid it across the floor (on a piece of plywood) until it met the sub-frame. I then rolled it onto the subframe (clockwise looking from the wheel arch) and used the subframe to hold it in place whilst I got the jack underneath to lift it into position.
After replacing the stud as described in the note, out of curiosity, before bolting it all back together, I though I would try doing my lean on subframe and rotate gearbox trick in reverse. Blow me if the darn box came straight out with the stud still attached!
Next time hopefully in about 10 years time) I will opt for removing the stud and my rest and roll method.
Next episode - the rear bump stop. Probably that piece of rubber/plastic that is rattling around inside the rear spring.
As it turned out the clutch (original) was in great condition at 113k. Flywheel had negligible play. So ridiculous to have to perform major surgery to change a bearing, but that's life I suppose.
One thing lead to another, and in the last 7 weeks I have replaced the clutch (DMF was fine), the drop links, the anti roll bar bushes, the lower control arms, the rear window regulator (manual), a front strut, a headlight cluster, the complete rear brakes system and one rear bump stop.
I'll start with my thoughts on the clutch, which took 25 hours my wife tells me. My record for changing a Beetle clutch was 27 minutes, so I was optimistic to say the least before starting. The "notes for novices" were excellent, and the time consumption was mainly down to my trying to ignore the advice in the notes, plus the usual rusty bolts and nuts you get at 113k. Had to drill out one of the bell housing bolts completely and replace it with a longer one and a nut.
One thing I did discover was that I did not need to remove the sub-frame. In fact leaving it in situ was positively helpful. I only found out on reassembly. I started off with the gearbox rotated through 90 degrees, and then slid it across the floor (on a piece of plywood) until it met the sub-frame. I then rolled it onto the subframe (clockwise looking from the wheel arch) and used the subframe to hold it in place whilst I got the jack underneath to lift it into position.
After replacing the stud as described in the note, out of curiosity, before bolting it all back together, I though I would try doing my lean on subframe and rotate gearbox trick in reverse. Blow me if the darn box came straight out with the stud still attached!
Next time hopefully in about 10 years time) I will opt for removing the stud and my rest and roll method.
Next episode - the rear bump stop. Probably that piece of rubber/plastic that is rattling around inside the rear spring.