General 54 plate 1.9 jtd belt and waterpump change

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General 54 plate 1.9 jtd belt and waterpump change

I take that back...there is a slight difference. Original I grade 2, new one is 2C...is that going to make a difference do you think?
 
I take that back...there is a slight difference. Original I grade 2, new one is 2C...is that going to make a difference do you think?
I've never seen a JTD injector (Bosch part number 0445110119) with a number and letter in the circle, just a number 1, 2 or 3.
A few examples in the pic below.
 

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Bit late to reply but I did my first ever cambelt change last year, June ish and she is still running beautifully. Just make sure you line up the lines on the belt both of them to the corresponding marks. It will run oh so much better. I did mine in an afternoon and it wasn't as daunting as it sounds.
 
No worries thank you very much for your input! Am in the process of changing an injector ( tonight...I hope..if it comes out) once this has been sorted will then look at cambelt. Thanks again , appreciated
 
If your EGR is working fine with no errors, then it must be moving open-closed okay.. otherwise you would likely get an error...



When my EGR was sticking/before I cleaned it and blanked it, I only noticed that the car was slightly lethargic. More accurately, I noticed it was more nippy and ran more like it should after I cleaned the valve/blanked it off.. It wasn't ever lumpy, but it's performance just wasn't as sharp.



If/when you remove the plastic trunk from the intercooler/to the Throttle Body, it's worth having a peep into the inlet manifold. My previous owner had run the car with the oil level at/or slightly above MAX and the car had vented a lot of oil into the inlet manifold. My MAP sensor (on the back of the inlet manifold) was similarly full of oil/coal sludge.. so I replaced it at the same time as I was tinkering with the EGR, just so I knew they were both new/clean and ought to work properly.



Your MAP sensor might be similarly choked, so it's worth a look, since without a lambda sensor, or anything too sophisticated in there, a weedy/clogged MAP sensor might affect the fuelling at idle. If you remove it and just spray it with WD40 or Contact cleaner, see whether that changes the lumpy idle. If it helps, but not completely, then a new MAP might be a good investment. If cleaning the old one makes no difference at all, then a new one could still be a good investment but it's more of a punt.



I would also stick some kerosene in the tank to help keep the internals clean, including the injectors. About 250ml of Wickes/B&Q "Turpentine Substitute" will do the job, per full tank of diesel. Not White Spirit or Brush Cleaner etc.. but the beast will burn those too.. just more smokey. If you have gum, varnish or clogging.. it'll help shift it. I've also used Cataclean for diesels.. which seems to be mostly Propanol, and 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate (2-EHN) which is a cetane improver (50ml per tank of that one) .. and it all helps ignition and the removal of black goo. I'm always "impressed" how black the oil turns and how quickly. Diesels are nasty, really.. 



The airbox and the catch tank also need to be clean. You have to remove the "octopus" pipe from the MAF sensor to the crankcase breather.. and the metal intercooler pipe... replace the air filter (you can't open the lid much more than the bare minimum to take the air filter) and clean out all the oil that you'll find in there. Mine had pools of it (from having been overfilled most likely, as it's never been as bad since I started only filling it to 80% of MAX).



Also check ALL these pipes for leaks. There's a dozen different pipes and connections... particularly the short stubby one connecting the turbo to the metal pipe to the intercooler. Mine was an OE silicone job, but was perishing and leaking "oily vapour" all over the front of the engine.. A leak here would be bad for your idle, since it's un-metered air the ECU doesn't know about. Your lumpy idle is hopefully just an air leak.





Ralf S.

If your EGR is working fine with no errors, then it must be moving open-closed okay.. otherwise you would likely get an error...

When my EGR was sticking/before I cleaned it and blanked it, I only noticed that the car was slightly lethargic. More accurately, I noticed it was more nippy and ran more like it should after I cleaned the valve/blanked it off.. It wasn't ever lumpy, but it's performance just wasn't as sharp.

If/when you remove the plastic trunk from the intercooler/to the Throttle Body, it's worth having a peep into the inlet manifold. My previous owner had run the car with the oil level at/or slightly above MAX and the car had vented a lot of oil into the inlet manifold. My MAP sensor (on the back of the inlet manifold) was similarly full of oil/coal sludge.. so I replaced it at the same time as I was tinkering with the EGR, just so I knew they were both new/clean and ought to work properly.

Your MAP sensor might be similarly choked, so it's worth a look, since without a lambda sensor, or anything too sophisticated in there, a weedy/clogged MAP sensor might affect the fuelling at idle. If you remove it and just spray it with WD40 or Contact cleaner, see whether that changes the lumpy idle. If it helps, but not completely, then a new MAP might be a good investment. If cleaning the old one makes no difference at all, then a new one could still be a good investment but it's more of a punt.

I would also stick some kerosene in the tank to help keep the internals clean, including the injectors. About 250ml of Wickes/B&Q "Turpentine Substitute" will do the job, per full tank of diesel. Not White Spirit or Brush Cleaner etc.. but the beast will burn those too.. just more smokey. If you have gum, varnish or clogging.. it'll help shift it. I've also used Cataclean for diesels.. which seems to be mostly Propanol, and 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate (2-EHN) which is a cetane improver (50ml per tank of that one) .. and it all helps ignition and the removal of black goo. I'm always "impressed" how black the oil turns and how quickly. Diesels are nasty, really.. :D

The airbox and the catch tank also need to be clean. You have to remove the "octopus" pipe from the MAF sensor to the crankcase breather.. and the metal intercooler pipe... replace the air filter (you can't open the lid much more than the bare minimum to take the air filter) and clean out all the oil that you'll find in there. Mine had pools of it (from having been overfilled most likely, as it's never been as bad since I started only filling it to 80% of MAX).

Also check ALL these pipes for leaks. There's a dozen different pipes and connections... particularly the short stubby one connecting the turbo to the metal pipe to the intercooler. Mine was an OE silicone job, but was perishing and leaking "oily vapour" all over the front of the engine.. A leak here would be bad for your idle, since it's un-metered air the ECU doesn't know about. Your lumpy idle is hopefully just an air leak.


Ralf S.
 

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This stuff!!

That's the one. It's kerosene, which is the 80% of fuel system cleaners like RedEx etc. The other ingredients they use are Toulene and Acetone... (about 10% of each) but the missus wouldn't let me buy gallons of inflammable solvents and leave them under the kitchen sink.... 🤔 so I figured 80% of the brew is better than nothing.

About 250ml per full tank (petrol or diesel) will dissolve water, gum and varnish in your system. I used to use it at every fill-up, as I remembered, and I never had any injector problems either in petrol or diesel.... and all those cars ran to 150 - 200k miles.

The other goo they sell, are "emissions" cleaners like Cataclean which tend to be more aggressive and are suggested to be used "once or twice a year". I've researched that these are 80% Propanol, some Acetone again (I need to get some of that stuff) and "petroleum distillates" (so in finest "Superman" movie tradition, I substituted kerosene instead).

Cataclean says use a bottle (400ml I think) when the tank is 1/4 full (so 1/3 on the fuel gauge). You add it and just drive around normally (but using some revs a bit) while it de-cokes your system. I notice the car throws out a lot more soot so it seems to be doing something .. and it runs smoother for a while afterwards... but I've never had the engine apart so I can't say whether it's just me wanting to believe..

I tend to stick it in the tank before the MOT.... drive it around, booting it a bit to get the soot cleaned out.. then fill up the tank with fresh fuel ahead of the MOT. Some people put it in the tank and then take the car for it's MOT.. which is probably not the best idea... 🚗💨💨

Anyhow... Propanol is available on eBay. If you have some left over and don't want to leave it lying around, stick it in your screen washer and it'll stop your nozzles freezing, even when Hell has iced up. I like Propanol... :ROFLMAO:



Ralf S.
 
Thanks Ralf, a font of chemical knowledge! I will try some next time I fill up, thank you. Have an new issue with electrics, so attention else where!! Did you ever send off you dash for repairs?!
 
Thanks Ralf, a font of chemical knowledge! I will try some next time I fill up, thank you. Have an new issue with electrics, so attention else where!! Did you ever send off you dash for repairs?!

I had a couple of instrument clusters fail. The first one was doing the "usual" odd messages coming on, lights lighting up even for features my car didn't have (cruise control) and then the console not turning off when the ignition was off etc.

I sent that to @yellowstilo for repairs... but the lad is in Holland and the Royal Mail lost it.

The replacement second-hand one I bought was fine for about 3 weeks and then started doing exactly the same thing. This time I sent the package with better Mail tracking (it helped that I lived above a post-office at that point, and was friendly with the Postmaster's missus.. although he doesn't know about that).

Anyhow that got fixed. I had the mileage adjusted upwards to where my car's mileage was... and I had to do a proxy alignment to stop the mileage from flashing... but it's been fine ever since.

I haven't seen Yellowstilo on here for ages so I don't know if he still does repairs.. but most ECU repair places can also fix clocks these days, as more and more cars now have digital equipment and that's going wrong.

Ralf S.
 
Thanks Ralf. Mine has undefined mileage, glow plugs, yellow triangle and a couple of weeks ago a faulty indicator...all of which I have been living with!

When the battery debacle happened a few days ago, the menu button started playing up, so I thought the dash was maybe about to pack in..however I disconnected all the battery terminals, gave them a good clean, and has been fine ever since for starting, and menu has returned...coincidence maybe! Will see if it occurs again before dragging it out.
We have a wee old polo that wouldn't start with immobiliser light on, that was a faulty dash and got fixed, so would probably use same company if it comes down to it
Cheers for the reply! Adam
 
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