Technical 500 Rear stub axle Torque setting please?

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Technical 500 Rear stub axle Torque setting please?

I'd be using a socket on bolts that small, as a ring spanner is always going to put an offset load upon them. 1/4" drive surface drive sockets are definitely sensible for this job.

And a proper brake pipe spanner for the pipe union..

But, yeah, they look pretty accessible - why you'd want to remove the entire stub axle, I'm not sure?
 
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All I can say on this is that if mine was like that I wouldn't have had a problem - and not come to the forum for help. On my 500 the fitment is different. I enclose a picture of one of the removed cylinders and as you may notice the whole thing is different. More importantly the bolt positioning places one of them behind the trailing arm. So maybe we have all learned something. I'll get a picture of the fitment shortly.
IMAG0440.jpg
 
Just taken photo of fitment. Now as you can see the bolts are shielded. The bolts removed are normal (hex) M6 (10mm) but for now I have put in socket round heads. The hidden bolt you are able to get a ring spanner on, the one shown in the picture has restricted access because of the trailing arm and if rounded off by an open ended spanner you would need to find another method to remove it e.g. remove the backplate. This being my only 500 I perhaps wrongly assumed that they were all like this - apparently not. Someone may find this post interesting and informative in future and that is why I am bothering to respond. A few of the responses have been well meaning an informative - and i thank you all for that. As for others though - what's the point?
 
59. And as for your earlier post I am a little dissapointed in your response " i'd leave alone to a garage if you lack the basic knowlage of undoing 2 bolts" I find that quite offensive. Your supposed to be a moderator.
 
I was going on the information i had in-front of me at the time of posting having taken time on a dark damp sunday night go go crawling on the ground with a torch and camera in my half decent clothes to get you that photograph and try and attempt to help you and thats the thanks i get..... :confused:

You have to understand that i have no idea of your technical ability or savvy, when it comes to working on cars or anything else for that matter. So I try to air on the side of caution, for all i know you might have the ability of a 5 year old with a fisher price tool box or be a fully qualified engineer infinitely more qualified that me. But regardless i try and play it safe and offer Free help. you have to realise that fiat can and do alter designs throughout a cars production run like most manufactures. And been a moderator try to provide accurate information (im not a fiat tech) whilst maintaining a duty of care to members and other people.

After all you'd be the first to complain should someone run into you in a car with defective brakes that they tried to fix taking help from some total stranger on the internet......
 
Could someone provide the torque setting for the centre nut on refitting?

As you will find you need a hefty bar to remove it, from memory it's 280-300nm, don't forget the washer. Careful the bearing does not separate when you remove the hub bearing assembly and when refitting.

when you fit new cylinders you also normally fit new shoes, fitting new shoes is a whole lot easier with hub removed.

If the shoes are contaminated or worn however I agree that removing the hub makes easier.

its a lot easier if you fit springs to shoes then fit them to the car though, no slipping swearing and no looking for the spring thats pinged off across the garden,

With hub removed that's the way I do them, easier in the long run and quicker and no springs coming off hitting you in the face.


Thank you all for your replies. To answer some of the questions that have been raised: On the fiat 500 I have the rear cylinders are held by 2 bolts through the back plate. One is easy to access with a 10mm spanner, the other is fit snug against the trailing arm. There is no clearance similar to as shown in one of the articles on this forum. You can get an open ended spanner on it but both brake pipe and bleed valve further restrict any movement. the spanner slips on the bolt. So I am needing to get better access meaning I need to remove the drum, hub and move the backplate to gain better access to the cylinder bolt. Unfortunatly the bolt needs removing and replacing along with the cylinder. Shouldn't be too difficult!
Anyway thanks again for the responses. One further thing - someone said "download the manual" - that seems reasonable - but to download do I really want to give my facebook account, address book etc to someone I don't know - I think not! Again - could I be sure it contains the info I was after - maybe, maybe not - if the guy knew it did why not just post what it was?

Yep came across this many times however I have my own way of doing it but that's my trade secret, the 1.4 rear disc 500 is also a pain in the arse is a similar respect. Taking the stub axle off wont take too long and you can carefully assembly everything knowing it is all good and correctly torqued etc.

Unless you pay for Fiat on line technical information then no one has 'up to date' info. CD's were discontinued years ago and were slow to be updated anyway. However they are better than nothing obviously but as in all jobs assess it first!
 
Unless you pay for Fiat on line technical information then no one has 'up to date' info. CD's were discontinued years ago and were slow to be updated anyway. However they are better than nothing obviously but as in all jobs assess it first!

You can get a USB that is updated as regularly as the online docs. I know, because I have one. They're sold on a marque by marque basis, and they're not amazingly cheap - but considerably cheaper than an online subscription.
 
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