Searched forum but can't find. replacing rear wheel cylinders 500 1.2 but to remove have to remove back plate which means taking off hub. Could someone provide the torque setting for the centre nut on refitting? perhaps the brake bleeding sequence as well. Thanks in advance!
Technical 500 Rear stub axle Torque setting please?
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Technical 500 Rear stub axle Torque setting please?
Why you need to remove the hub nut to replace the cylinder ? Do you not remove the drum ? Leaving the hub nut alone
eg
http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...INT_MODE=0&EPER_CAT=SP&GUI_LANG=3&WINDOW_ID=1
(thats for a panda but i believe the are the same)
http://www.ricambio.co.uk/2465-rear-wheel-brake-cylinder--new-fiat-500-new-panda
undo the pipe undo the bolts replace rebuild incl drum then bleed up....
not 100 % on the bleed sequence but i'd start furthest from the brake fluid bottle if you clamp the hose with a propitiatory hose clamp you'll minimise the bleeding needed
eg
http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...INT_MODE=0&EPER_CAT=SP&GUI_LANG=3&WINDOW_ID=1
(thats for a panda but i believe the are the same)
http://www.ricambio.co.uk/2465-rear-wheel-brake-cylinder--new-fiat-500-new-panda
undo the pipe undo the bolts replace rebuild incl drum then bleed up....
not 100 % on the bleed sequence but i'd start furthest from the brake fluid bottle if you clamp the hose with a propitiatory hose clamp you'll minimise the bleeding needed
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This might help you, and a few other folks as well (if they've learned how to use the search function)
The source for this is rather old, so the usual cautions apply.
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when you fit new cylinders you also normally fit new shoes, fitting new shoes is a whole lot easier with hub removed.
I've no idea why they need to remove back plate though
OP you need to use new hub nut if you remove it
im going by this
https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-punto-guides/235078-rear-drum-strip-clean.html
im sure ive had my mates panda brakes apart the same way using 2x m10 bolts to help pull the drum off
https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-punto-guides/235078-rear-drum-strip-clean.html
im sure ive had my mates panda brakes apart the same way using 2x m10 bolts to help pull the drum off
its a lot easier if you fit springs to shoes then fit them to the car though, no slipping swearing and no looking for the spring thats pinged off across the garden,
I'd agree - everything is perfectly accessible once the drum is removed, and as Andy says, once you've removed the locating pins, you can use a couple of bolts to extract the drum (the locating pin holes in the drum are threaded for this very purpose).
But if you do want to remove the hub nut, the torque settigs are in the table I posted. You'll need a heavy duty torque wrench, though - and be careful not to pull the car off whatever is supporting it.
If I ever have to remove hubs, I do the initial loosening/final tightening with the car standing on its wheels if I can. Work safely out there, guys.
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if you do that your doing it wrong
go and invest in a large pound shop flat blade screw driver and a cheap mini pair of welder snipe nose mole grips....
grind / hacksaw a V into the screw driver blade
eg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sykes-Pic...g-Tool-Installer-Remover-035900-/181269040407
and small mole grips clipped to the spring lightly to allow you to steer it and prevent it flying should it become unhooked.....
Ones on Plant at work i have ground a V into a 2ft wrecking bar to get them back on The old time engineer has since stolen "my" tool having seen how well it worked on the 1ft drums on the side loaders those i clamped a standard set of molies to
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dosent the book say remove hub too?
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Mine doesn't.
i must have read it some where i don't think i came up with the idea all by my self, it saves a lot of pain though
Thank you all for your replies. To answer some of the questions that have been raised: On the fiat 500 I have the rear cylinders are held by 2 bolts through the back plate. One is easy to access with a 10mm spanner, the other is fit snug against the trailing arm. There is no clearance similar to as shown in one of the articles on this forum. You can get an open ended spanner on it but both brake pipe and bleed valve further restrict any movement. the spanner slips on the bolt. So I am needing to get better access meaning I need to remove the drum, hub and move the backplate to gain better access to the cylinder bolt. Unfortunatly the bolt needs removing and replacing along with the cylinder. Shouldn't be too difficult!
Anyway thanks again for the responses. One further thing - someone said "download the manual" - that seems reasonable - but to download do I really want to give my facebook account, address book etc to someone I don't know - I think not! Again - could I be sure it contains the info I was after - maybe, maybe not - if the guy knew it did why not just post what it was?
Anyway thanks again for the responses. One further thing - someone said "download the manual" - that seems reasonable - but to download do I really want to give my facebook account, address book etc to someone I don't know - I think not! Again - could I be sure it contains the info I was after - maybe, maybe not - if the guy knew it did why not just post what it was?
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One thing to bear in mind is that the 500 is still a relatively recent car (albeit based on the Panda platform), and therefore accurate documentation costs money.
I happen to have the proper FIAT service manuals for all FIAT cars in the last 6 or 7 years, bought legitimately from FIAT and it cost me couple of hundred Euro. So handing that info out for free might not always happen straight away
I happen to have the proper FIAT service manuals for all FIAT cars in the last 6 or 7 years, bought legitimately from FIAT and it cost me couple of hundred Euro. So handing that info out for free might not always happen straight away
7797archer
New member
25nm is the correct torque setting for the 2 6mm hex bolts. There was a factory recall 2008 to check these bolts
Yeeeeees, I believe that's the latest way fraudsters are getting people, by promising to give them the torque specs for the 500 rear stub axle......
Remove nipple and brake pipe first?
See our own downloads section I think the workshop manual is there to download and burn to CD
That must hurt!
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Reading your post I absolutely don't understand your approach to this job. Why would you want to remove the cylinder from the backplate before you've removed the brake pipe? By trying to remove the brake pipe when the cylinder is off the backplate you risk bending/breaking the pipe.
If you are changing the rear wheel cylinders then you have to remove the brake pipes anyway, why not undo the nipples and the brake pipes for better access?
The Punto has EXACTLY the same brake setup at the rear as the 500 and although I appreciate the rear axle will be different, there was no need to take the backplate off there so there should be no need here.
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-mk1...-fluid-renewal-rear-cylinder-replacement.html
No disrespect, but you're doing this completely wrong.
you sure its a 10mm spanner it looks more like an 8mm
and how are they hard to get at? in all seriousness if your struggling to get 2 bolts undone you really dont want to be attempting bleeding ... Brakes are a safety critical part of your car.... i'd leave alone to a garage if you lack the basic knowlage of undoing 2 bolts...
Now you might want to accuse me of been harsh but just for you i've been under a 1.2 8v 500 in the damp and dark with my camera... to see where your having a problem... but im at a loss to your issue
you can clearly see the 2 bolts either side of the bleed nipple and the pipe fitting i could happily get a spanner or a socket on both of them with a good degree of movement
Or am i missing something?
