Technical 2019 319 4x4 Rear diff capacity

[The Panda Nut]

Due to the mooing noises and a thread on here about water getting into the rear diff, along with certain knowldge my diff has been under water at least twice for several minutes, I am going to change the differential oil. Fiat helpfully as usual dont seem to state the capcity needed and at £40 a litre I dont want to over buy. I have seen 2 figures 0.6 and 1.65 litres. I suspect nearer the latter. As iit stands I need to drain it carefully into a jug and measure what comes out and then make a small adjustment to allow for any milage related reduction in volume. Can anyone with the Haynes manual quote a figure from that source as a guide too please? £100 for a few pints of oil seems unfortunate.... THe car is low miles but now 6 years old so its time I think.

 

[the green vanper]

Taken from eLearn:

The TwinAir specs does not list anything except the sealant and does not mention the 4x4 version

I'm really amazed how they could f***k up something that easy as a documentation with different (engine) versions available.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Taken from eLearn:

View attachment 459278

View attachment 459279

The TwinAir specs does not list anything except the sealant and does not mention the 4x4 version

I'm really amazed how they could f***k up something that easy as a documentation with different versions available.

Sadly Im not. I will drain it very carefully and measure the contents. It shows no sign of leakage so hopefully will be OK. Im thinking I will jack it up and turn teh prop quite a few times to hopefully clear the pump of some of its contents. If the oil is bad I may well half fill, run it a mile or two in off road setting and then drain and refill to give it a clean., It will be interesting to see of the mooing stops. Expensive way of flushing!

 

[The Panda Nut]

If the differentiall of a Fiat Panda takes 0.62kg of gear oil to replenish it, how much sweat in US fluid ounces does it take to generate the 82hp of the 90hp twin air engine.

Lets go to the pub and buy two pounds of your finest please landlord.

I will report back here on how many cc are contained in 0.62 of a kilo of Tutela's finest. Also the quantity of oil drained from the diff in a volumetric measure. I cant wait....

 

[the green vanper]

If the differentiall of a Fiat Panda takes 0.62kg of gear oil to replenish it, how much sweat in US fluid ounces does it take to generate the 82hp of the 90hp twin air engine.

Lets go to the pub and buy two pounds of your finest please landlord.

I will report back here on how many cc are contained in 0.62 of a kilo of Tutela's finest. Also the quantity of oil drained from the diff in a volumetric measure. I cant wait....

Let's take a calculator:

 

[The Panda Nut]

Spoil sport. lol

545cc doesnt sound nearly enough. It looks like a litre would be needed. I know there is a lot of stuff indide the casing but thats not a lot. Measuring output will be required. Now handily I had a measuring jug from when they removed a kidney a while back and am too mean to throw it away. If the oil looks like knats pee I will only have myself to blame LOL

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Remember the valuable advice to always remove the filler plug before you drain a diff (or gearbox). If you drain it, then find the filler won’t open, you’re stuffed.

For the main gearbox you simply fill til it runs out from the filler (ie the oil is level with the bottom of the filler plug hole). I’d expect the rear differential to be the same…

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Have a read here too, as you might get the alternative oil for less? (The specs for the rear differential and front PTU - only found in the diesel 4x4 - suggest the newer oil spec (with GL5 in it) supersedes the older spec and can be used in both locations… pretty sure this is what I used in the PTU/idler gearbox

75w85 Synthetic Gear / Differential Oil

Premium 75w85 Manual Gear / Differential / Transfer Case Oil Fully synthetic gear oil is a high performance product manufactured from a blend of synthetic oils, sheer stable viscosity index improvers and a multipurpose extreme pressure additive system. It offers a high level of performance when...

www.westwayoils.co.uk

 

[Bonefish Blues]

Just on Westway one of their gear oils (not this spec) recently twice failed testing by the Industry Body (VLS) in terms of it not meeting claimed spec. Not all specs are routinely tested, the VLS only responds to complaints. I went with the lubricants recommended & supplied by a dealer.

Just fyi, make own judgements.

VLS010183 |

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Just on Westway one of their gear oils (not this spec) recently twice failed testing by the Industry Body (VLS) in terms of it not meeting claimed spec. Not all specs are routinely tested, the VLS only responds to complaints. I went with the lubricants recommended & supplied by a dealer.

Just fyi, make own judgements.

VLS010183 |

Interesting…
Maybe when I too change the rear differential oil I’ll redo the PTU as well. And actually, the main gearbox as that too will have got equally wet!

 

[euroben]

This is a really good video of the job

 

[Bonefish Blues]

That's the stuff I used - Petronas Tutela

 

[Panda IIs]

Spoil sport. lol

545cc doesnt sound nearly enough. It looks like a litre would be needed. I know there is a lot of stuff indide the casing but thats not a lot. Measuring output will be required. Now handily I had a measuring jug from when they removed a kidney a while back and am too mean to throw it away. If the oil looks like knat pee I will only have myself to blame LOL

I wouldn't be worrying about doing an exit poll (measuring drained volume) I'm pretty sure its fill it until it comes out of the hole? I didn't check the video in the link above but if its the guys in Spain or Portugal then that's the reference I used (although they did seem to get a bit bogged down on specs. from memory! Do, as mentioned, check the fill plug comes out first...

 

[Bonefish Blues]

You can only buy a full litre, all's good. When my Man did mine, he used very little indeed, and I caught him out because he admitted he hadn't purged his injection gun of the previous fluid before doing the refill. Fortunately there was enough left to do it properly with my fluid and only my fluid!

 

[The Panda Nut]

You can only buy a full litre, all's good. When my Man did mine, he used very little indeed, and I caught him out because he admitted he hadn't purged his injection gun of the previous fluid before doing the refill. Fortunately there was enough left to do it properly with my fluid and only my fluid!

So the 500cc may be correct. Thank heaven it only needs 1 litre!!

 

[The Panda Nut]

Remember the valuable advice to always remove the filler plug before you drain a diff (or gearbox). If you drain it, then find the filler won’t open, you’re stuffed.

For the main gearbox you simply fill til it runs out from the filler (ie the oil is level with the bottom of the filler plug hole). I’d expect the rear differential to be the same…

Ive never had an issue but a really useful tip I will follow for sure.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Well this pretty well covers this and many thanks for all the contributions. That internal bung is interesting though. I wonder if there is an official filling sequence.

 

[Eltezz]

I wonder if there is an official filling sequence.

Lifted from eLearn:

With the car on a lift, start the engine, engage a gear and release the clutch pedal, to move the rear axle for approximately 1 minute so that the oil is distributed inside all the differential chambers.

Stop the engine.

1. Disconnect the electrical connection for the controlled coupling solenoid valve so that the valve is always open.

With the car on a lift, engage the parking brake, start the engine, engage 1st gear and release the clutch pedal, to move the propeller shaft and the oil pump inside the rear differential for approximately 1 minute, in order to bleed the hydraulic circuit.

Repeat in reverse for about 1 minute.

Stop the engine.

Connect the electrical connection for the controlled coupling solenoid valve.

With the car on the lift, release the parking brake, start the engine, engage a gear, release the clutch pedal and move the rear axle again, so that the oil is distributed inside all the differential chambers.

Engage 1st gear and release the clutch pedal. With the rear axle turning, try to progressively pull the handbrake lever until the engine slows down (and stops when the rear wheels are completely locked by the action of the handbrake) in order to check that the 4×4 system is operating correctly.

Stop the engine.

Unscrew the filler plug, top up the oil, then clean and tighten the filler plug.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Lifted from eLearn:

With the car on a lift, start the engine, engage a gear and release the clutch pedal, to move the rear axle for approximately 1 minute so that the oil is distributed inside all the differential chambers.

Stop the engine.

1. Disconnect the electrical connection for the controlled coupling solenoid valve so that the valve is always open.

With the car on a lift, engage the parking brake, start the engine, engage 1st gear and release the clutch pedal, to move the propeller shaft and the oil pump inside the rear differential for approximately 1 minute, in order to bleed the hydraulic circuit.

Repeat in reverse for about 1 minute.

Stop the engine.

Connect the electrical connection for the controlled coupling solenoid valve.

With the car on the lift, release the parking brake, start the engine, engage a gear, release the clutch pedal and move the rear axle again, so that the oil is distributed inside all the differential chambers.

Engage 1st gear and release the clutch pedal. With the rear axle turning, try to progressively pull the handbrake lever until the engine slows down (and stops when the rear wheels are completely locked by the action of the handbrake) in order to check that the 4×4 system is operating correctly.

Stop the engine.

Unscrew the filler plug, top up the oil, then clean and tighten the filler plug.

Awesome. Im pretty sure this is more than a little, important to prime the pump and protect the clutch after the process. I have learned more (very valuable information) about how the car works from this post than in the previous 8 years of ownership. I suspected something like this would be needed, though stupidly didnt even think of the need to top up again, which is now pretty obvious. With so little oil in the diff, failing to do this is likely to increase wear substantially and could destroy the 4x4 diff clutch if running about with low diff oil level. Not much point in doing the job without this I suspect.

The downside is I have no excuse to put this off any longer.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Lifted from eLearn:

With the car on a lift, start the engine, engage a gear and release the clutch pedal, to move the rear axle for approximately 1 minute so that the oil is distributed inside all the differential chambers.

Stop the engine.

1. Disconnect the electrical connection for the controlled coupling solenoid valve so that the valve is always open.

With the car on a lift, engage the parking brake, start the engine, engage 1st gear and release the clutch pedal, to move the propeller shaft and the oil pump inside the rear differential for approximately 1 minute, in order to bleed the hydraulic circuit.

Repeat in reverse for about 1 minute.

Stop the engine.

Connect the electrical connection for the controlled coupling solenoid valve.

With the car on the lift, release the parking brake, start the engine, engage a gear, release the clutch pedal and move the rear axle again, so that the oil is distributed inside all the differential chambers.

Engage 1st gear and release the clutch pedal. With the rear axle turning, try to progressively pull the handbrake lever until the engine slows down (and stops when the rear wheels are completely locked by the action of the handbrake) in order to check that the 4×4 system is operating correctly.

Stop the engine.

Unscrew the filler plug, top up the oil, then clean and tighten the filler plug.

I assume this all gets done after a drain and initial fill? Then you follow this sequence to spread the new oil, then fill again?