Technical 100HP - Camber issues / advice

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Technical 100HP - Camber issues / advice

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Here is a scan of a recent geometry check / fix on my car:

Scan1.JPG

Now as you can see, the Camber is still well out. BUT the garage told me that is all they can do.

They said the restriction is due to the bolts, and that I need 'thinner bolts' - and if I was to source these, they would fit them and redo the camber to proper levels.

Now does anyone know what they mean - and where I can get these bolts from? Is it something I can get from my local FIAT parts department?

The car is still lowered on the Cobra springs as well.

Edit - they also said the rear had weird toe angles, but can't adjust anything. Oh, and one of my alloys is slightly buckled, yet no damage on it!!!!
 
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Maybe a daft question, but does the 100hp share the same settings as the rest of the Panda range (I see they have Fiat Panda 03- as their target settings)?

The settings I recorded from here for the 100hp are:

Front wheel toe-in (mm) -1 +/- 1
Rear wheel toe-in (mm) 3 +/- -3
Front wheel camber (degs) -1 +/- 30'
Rear wheel camber (degs) -42' +/- 30'

Chris
 
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Not sure, they used an online database to get all their settings from.

They are happy to adjust things free of charge, but I just want something to go on - and their concern was about lack of movement at the front to get the correct camber.
 
I had to take the figures above to my local when I got mine done first as they didn't have them on their machine and had to load those figures specifically.

They can get all aspects of mine within the recommended figures so it may be worth going back to them with these first.
 
Would things be slightly affected if car has been lowered?

Lowering your car will throw out all the settings and by quite a bit normally. So it will be more than 'slightly' affected. It may well be the case that by lowering it you now cannot get the correct settings, particularly so if there is not a great deal of adjustment in the first place.
 
Ah nice one Phil (y)

So I can source some of these in, and then go back to my tyre place and let them redo it. I take it if I phoned up FIAT, they would have no idea....

Yes Stu just make sure you have the right diameter bolts for the car ..I beleive there are two diameters..simply then remove the top bolt and refit with the camber bolt and reset the camber.. job done..(y)

Also have a word with these guys they might be able to help you beleive they are in you area..or near at least..

http://www.custom-chrome.co.uk/

Another from my favourits ..

http://www.camskill.co.uk/brands/camber_bolts.php
 
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Nice one - will shop about, and get them in.

Just spoken to tyre place, they are happy to relook at this once I have the bolts. The guy who did it has a Scooby, and has used them before.
 
Any idea of the screw diameter needed? Seems to be all different sizes...

Sorry Mate cant help there ..its 12mm on the stilo..full of useless info in your case tho..;)..maybe contact your dealer and have a word with some one there..from what you told me you do have a good relationship with them..also maybe the spares dept might just simply measure the dia of one for you..
 
Would things be slightly affected if car has been lowered?

Given that independent suspension geometry - front in particular - involves camber change with wheel movement - more negative as wheel rises - any lowering is bound to alter the camber angle. Independent suspension systems have an effective swinging-arm length, which can be quite short in the case of double-wishbone setups, with an angled, short upper wishbone and a relatively flat, longer lower wishbone; the effective length is longer with the strut system used on the front of the majority of cars to save costs (I suspect TDQ's Honda has nice double wishbones). Cornering causes body roll, which reduces negative camber, while the wheel movement increases negative camber so the two tend to cancel one another out to minimise any change of wheel-to-road angle as you corner.
 
Hi Stu

I'm pretty sure it's 10mm bolt 0n the Panda and it's possiblle to get them here in Denmark at least,
If you can't find them in UK I can buy and post them to you.
The price in Denmark is arround 300 kr.
 

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Definitely 10mm?

This is info for the H&R ones:

TC210 "Auto Bianchi, Fiat, Lancia, Seat" 10 mm "45,5 - 48,0mm" £36.18 £41.61

OR

TC110 "Fiat, Lancia, Seat, Suzuki" 10 mm "36,0 - 48,0mm" £36.18 £41.61

They also do 12mm ones!!! The red is bracket size!
 
Might slightly scrub inner tyre off but not much.
You should have seen the state of the fronts that were removed :eek:

Ok, the negativity has been reduced somewhat, but I would ideally get a bit more off it.

Saying that, looking at the other post of recommended settings, mine are within that? Or not. So 1 degree 12 minutes is within the tolerance of 1 degree +/- 30 minutes, yes?

So maybe I had better stick with that after all :chin:
 
I'd check that they have the right settings programmed in, mine passed with over 1' of negative camber at the front.

edit: my F1s were totally bald on both inner and outer shoulders with 3mm tread in the centre. Before some smartarse comments, they were actually run slightly above recommended pressure, too.
 
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