Could anyone advise where the crank angle
sensor is positioned on a 1.8 petrol engine
please.
Ta Johh
sensor is positioned on a 1.8 petrol engine
please.
Ta Johh
Technical 1.8 Crank Angle Sensor position
- Thread starter sixpotman
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Technical 1.8 Crank Angle Sensor position
if not near pulley then at rear of engine
Looking at the eper looks like it's back of the engine
clutch side, looks like ramps out and try and find it.
I hate electronic engine managements, points plugs
and carbs you had fewer options to go wrong.
I remember in 2001 buying my first injection car
a 3 ltr straight six and opening the bonnet thinking
what have I let myself in for, but that's simple compared
to the stilo.
John
clutch side, looks like ramps out and try and find it.
I hate electronic engine managements, points plugs
and carbs you had fewer options to go wrong.
I remember in 2001 buying my first injection car
a 3 ltr straight six and opening the bonnet thinking
what have I let myself in for, but that's simple compared
to the stilo.
John
To be honest the ones I had didn't
as they were maintained properly.
They were however simple to diagnose
without complex electronics.
Stilo's on suicide watch at present
I have crankangle sensor on order as
it's throwing crank and cam sensor
errors at present and missing for a few
seconds on a twelve mile run when running
at a steady revs.
John
John
as they were maintained properly.
They were however simple to diagnose
without complex electronics.
Stilo's on suicide watch at present
I have crankangle sensor on order as
it's throwing crank and cam sensor
errors at present and missing for a few
seconds on a twelve mile run when running
at a steady revs.
John
John
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Well I found were it was - You need to jack the car
up on the passenger side and put an axle stand under
the car just incase the jack fails.
The sensor is up behind the drivers side drive shaft
where it exits the diff make sure the exhaust is cold
before removing.
It's held in by a hex drive headed nut. The electrical
connector is of the same type as fitted on the
plug coil so push the green slide in and hold then remove
the plug.
You may have to use a long screwdriver
to prize the old unit out of the block as the rubber
''O'' ring swells and hold it tight. Refit new one in
reverse order.
So hopefully that's the Camshaft error cured!!!!!!!!
John
up on the passenger side and put an axle stand under
the car just incase the jack fails.
The sensor is up behind the drivers side drive shaft
where it exits the diff make sure the exhaust is cold
before removing.
It's held in by a hex drive headed nut. The electrical
connector is of the same type as fitted on the
plug coil so push the green slide in and hold then remove
the plug.
You may have to use a long screwdriver
to prize the old unit out of the block as the rubber
''O'' ring swells and hold it tight. Refit new one in
reverse order.
So hopefully that's the Camshaft error cured!!!!!!!!
John
Yes we will see - it's been throwing both codes
and played up starting and missing, if I stalled
the engine and restarted too quickly then it
would throw a code then clear it's self and reappear
20 miles down the road.
As said before just because the ecu throws a
code that may be a sympton and not the problem.
If the crankshaft throws a intermitent error and
goes out of sync with the cam sensor you get a
cam sensor error even though it's the cranksensor
causing the problem.
Since changing the crank sensor the engine starts
first half a turn it didn't before and doesn't throw a
code when stalled and instantly restarted.
The crank sensors £25 and easy to replace I would have
done that anyway the cam sensors 3 times the price
and behind the cam wheel needing a crank and cam
locking kit to change. So we will see if the Diagnostics
lied or told the truth soon enough and if I need to sort
a cam lock kit.
John
and played up starting and missing, if I stalled
the engine and restarted too quickly then it
would throw a code then clear it's self and reappear
20 miles down the road.
As said before just because the ecu throws a
code that may be a sympton and not the problem.
If the crankshaft throws a intermitent error and
goes out of sync with the cam sensor you get a
cam sensor error even though it's the cranksensor
causing the problem.
Since changing the crank sensor the engine starts
first half a turn it didn't before and doesn't throw a
code when stalled and instantly restarted.
The crank sensors £25 and easy to replace I would have
done that anyway the cam sensors 3 times the price
and behind the cam wheel needing a crank and cam
locking kit to change. So we will see if the Diagnostics
lied or told the truth soon enough and if I need to sort
a cam lock kit.
John
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Update
Cam sensor error still intermitent plus won't start at times
so taken the plunge ordered a camsensor C1121 supplied
by fuel parts through a local supplier £55.00. Also bought
a sealey cam lock kit VS4915 for £135.00, glad I did
didn't realise there was so much tolerance or movement
possible on both cams I would not like to work on a 1.8
without a cam kit. At least I have the kit for cambelt
changes variator removal plus additional plates are
available for other sized engines.
On removal of the original sensor and examination
it had been damaged. Hit by the cam wheel insert
which looked as if the previous owners mechanic
had bent it when locking the cam wheel up to
torque. Gentle use of a pair of pliers worked
the plate back to near it's original position.
Back together now so far it runs ok
John
Cam sensor error still intermitent plus won't start at times
so taken the plunge ordered a camsensor C1121 supplied
by fuel parts through a local supplier £55.00. Also bought
a sealey cam lock kit VS4915 for £135.00, glad I did
didn't realise there was so much tolerance or movement
possible on both cams I would not like to work on a 1.8
without a cam kit. At least I have the kit for cambelt
changes variator removal plus additional plates are
available for other sized engines.
On removal of the original sensor and examination
it had been damaged. Hit by the cam wheel insert
which looked as if the previous owners mechanic
had bent it when locking the cam wheel up to
torque. Gentle use of a pair of pliers worked
the plate back to near it's original position.
Back together now so far it runs ok
John
On removal of the original sensor and examination
it had been damaged. Hit by the cam wheel insert
which looked as if the previous owners mechanic
had bent it when locking the cam wheel up to
torque
That'll be it then, fingers crossed
Although this is for Fiat Ducato, the systems are almost identical to a Stilo 1.8 engine and a similar problem so you may find this of interest
http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/hallmarked-ducato.html?enews=a100501
it had been damaged. Hit by the cam wheel insert
which looked as if the previous owners mechanic
had bent it when locking the cam wheel up to
torque
That'll be it then, fingers crossed
Although this is for Fiat Ducato, the systems are almost identical to a Stilo 1.8 engine and a similar problem so you may find this of interest
http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/hallmarked-ducato.html?enews=a100501
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On removal of the original sensor and
That'll be it then, fingers crossed
Although this is for Fiat Ducato, the systems are almost identical to a Stilo 1.8 engine and a similar problem so you may find this of interest
http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/hallmarked-ducato.html?enews=a100501
Still a few problems sometimes it starts first time sometimes
it takes a number of turns 10 seconds or so before it fires.
Goes ok after it's started easily revs to limit and pulls better
at lower revs (more torque).
No warning lights or engine codes listed. Going to put the old
Crank Sensor back on just incase there is a difference in
height from the OEM one as it's an Intermotor one at present.
If that does nothing then I'll have to try and recheck the cambelt
timing again although how to ensure the 2 cam wheels are
set exactly right with the possible free movement possible to
them even with cam locks I'm not sure.
There is also a slight flutter vibration at low tick over as well.
I have used Yani's software and tried both the Motorised Throttle
and fan speeds actuation without the engine running but it says
it can't actuate them, does anyone know if this is normal or do
I have a possible ECU fault.
John
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The fact it runs fine once started but sometimes won't allow a start until it's happy with when to turn fuel and ignition on, then it does sound like crank sensor/ cam sensor as it needs to know where the piston positions are and which piston is on compression stroke before it will allow the start
Well this one reared it's head again big style
yesterday the car missed a few beats on the way
to work, quite dramatic engine cut outs at 70mph
for a few seconds then firing back up again.
Got to work ok but after 4 hours it just failed to fire
it tries to fire but just can't. Disconnected the battery
and left it another few hours, tried it again but no joy
trailered home.
Diagnostics showing Crank and Can Sensor fail at first
then just Cam Sensor. Got it recovered to home and
started to strip it down again, reset the cam timing
again with the sealey cam locks on the crank and
both cams. Re tensioned the belt and then tightened
the cam wheels. Still struggling to fire.
Prior to this it had an irregular tick over and was taking
2 or three goes at starting, due to the damage to the
exhaust cam timing ring by a previous mechanic -
which I had tried to bend back into position probably
not too successfully. I have now ordered a new exhaust cam
wheel around £48 from fiat, plus a new cam sensor sold
by Fuel Parts.
I'm also going to closely compare the original Crankshaft
sensor with the replacement from Intermotor I fitted to see
if that the air gap on that and the original are the same.
I'm hoping that that will sort the problem. Trying to check
the wiring looms a bit of a pain as it's within plastic protectors
has anyone got a decent wiring diagram they could post to check
pin to pin from the ecu.
John
yesterday the car missed a few beats on the way
to work, quite dramatic engine cut outs at 70mph
for a few seconds then firing back up again.
Got to work ok but after 4 hours it just failed to fire
it tries to fire but just can't. Disconnected the battery
and left it another few hours, tried it again but no joy
trailered home.
Diagnostics showing Crank and Can Sensor fail at first
then just Cam Sensor. Got it recovered to home and
started to strip it down again, reset the cam timing
again with the sealey cam locks on the crank and
both cams. Re tensioned the belt and then tightened
the cam wheels. Still struggling to fire.
Prior to this it had an irregular tick over and was taking
2 or three goes at starting, due to the damage to the
exhaust cam timing ring by a previous mechanic -
which I had tried to bend back into position probably
not too successfully. I have now ordered a new exhaust cam
wheel around £48 from fiat, plus a new cam sensor sold
by Fuel Parts.
I'm also going to closely compare the original Crankshaft
sensor with the replacement from Intermotor I fitted to see
if that the air gap on that and the original are the same.
I'm hoping that that will sort the problem. Trying to check
the wiring looms a bit of a pain as it's within plastic protectors
has anyone got a decent wiring diagram they could post to check
pin to pin from the ecu.
John
New cam wheel picked up from Fiat Dealer.
New cam sensor picked up from local supplier.
Compared the original with the new one and
about 0.5 mm drift on the old one in a couple
of places so if there is even slight damaged
to a cam wheel sensor then renew the wheel.
Cars had the new sensor fitted and the new
cam wheel - started first time and no errors
on the diagnostics.
John
New cam sensor picked up from local supplier.
Compared the original with the new one and
about 0.5 mm drift on the old one in a couple
of places so if there is even slight damaged
to a cam wheel sensor then renew the wheel.
Cars had the new sensor fitted and the new
cam wheel - started first time and no errors
on the diagnostics.
John
Attachments
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Bet you're glad to see the back of that problem
Sounds like it was a bit of sabotage from the previous owner
Sounds like it was a bit of sabotage from the previous owner
Bet you're glad to see the back of that problem
Sounds like it was a bit of sabotage from the previous owner
Fingers crossed yes.
Think it's more bodgy mechanic and the owner not wanting
to spend more than he had too on it as he wanted shut after
the cambelt failed. I've had 22 months use out of it up too yet
so can't really grumble.
I do however hate pelican crossing just after a repair-
all the beeps
John
What a difference the new cam wheel made - the
cars like a totally different car and a pleasure to drive.
More flexible, pulls better, accerates like it should,
hopefully it should be a lot better in snow as
well now there is torque at low revs, no reving like hell
to keep the engine running while pulling away in snow.
John
cars like a totally different car and a pleasure to drive.
More flexible, pulls better, accerates like it should,
hopefully it should be a lot better in snow as
well now there is torque at low revs, no reving like hell
to keep the engine running while pulling away in snow.
John
