If you've got a variator in your Stilo and you're wondering if it's got an issue with it, remember, it might not actually be the variator itself, it could be the variator actuator. Both these items fall under the error code P1653, so the fault could lie with either... one is easy to test though, here's how
To rule out the variator actuator as being the fault rahter than the variator itself, take off your engine coil cover and get your trusty multimeter out...
What you're trying to do is to test the variator solenoid, and it's easy to diagnose, just put your multimeter across the 2 terminals of the solenoid (the blobs on the top, not the plug connectors) and check for continuity, if there's none (eg. you've got some resistance there) then undo the 2 philips screws on the top of it and remove the cap (pull it off, don't twist), connect the multimeter to the 2 spikes on the solenoid and check for continuity again, I bet you get it this time. if you do then it's the cap at fault, what you need to do is drop little balls of solder into the 2 holes for the spikes in the cap and then fit it back on, then you should have your continuity back accross the plug terminals.
Once you've done this, then you can be reasonably sure that your actuator should be okay and the problem lies with the variator itself... bad luck
If you didn't have continuity across the cap and the actuator pins, then the actuator is probably at fault and you'll need to get it replaced. At least it's cheaper than the variator though!
I hope this helps anyone who's concerned about their variator
To rule out the variator actuator as being the fault rahter than the variator itself, take off your engine coil cover and get your trusty multimeter out...
What you're trying to do is to test the variator solenoid, and it's easy to diagnose, just put your multimeter across the 2 terminals of the solenoid (the blobs on the top, not the plug connectors) and check for continuity, if there's none (eg. you've got some resistance there) then undo the 2 philips screws on the top of it and remove the cap (pull it off, don't twist), connect the multimeter to the 2 spikes on the solenoid and check for continuity again, I bet you get it this time. if you do then it's the cap at fault, what you need to do is drop little balls of solder into the 2 holes for the spikes in the cap and then fit it back on, then you should have your continuity back accross the plug terminals.
Once you've done this, then you can be reasonably sure that your actuator should be okay and the problem lies with the variator itself... bad luck
If you didn't have continuity across the cap and the actuator pins, then the actuator is probably at fault and you'll need to get it replaced. At least it's cheaper than the variator though!
I hope this helps anyone who's concerned about their variator