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Technical bad flutter on light throttle

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Technical bad flutter on light throttle

stilosporting

stilosporting

just frank
Parked in the garage
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this info relates to a 2005 1.9 jtd 115 on 56k miles.

since changing the egr and cleaning out the throttly body, map and maf sensors the engine is smoking less and the turbo is cutting in sooner which is good.

now though for some reason im getting a really bad flutter on light throttle? it was there before i did the above but nowhere near how it is now. feels like air is escaping or the overboost valve is cutting in for some reason? i can duplicate the issue on request. and it can be milliseconds between on,off,on,off power. on full throttle the noise goes and the car is fine.

what is the best way to see if it is one of the egr pipes leaking? as i cant drive and check at the same time?

would the car run if i disconnect the egr? so i would know if it was the pipe from egr to throttle body thats the problem?

the noise seems to be coming from the passenger side of the car at the back of the engine bay if iykwim?

any other ideas what the noise could be?

if i had some form of examiner what i would be looking for to diagnose it?

i was really hoping this was egr related and so replacing it would resolve it but its magnified it instead? i have six days to find the fault and fix it so any help would be amazing! :worship:
 
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What do you mean by flutter? Is it like pinking? The intake side and intecooler are on the passengers side if thats any help.
 
not sure what you mean by pinking?? when i say flutter i mean it feels like power then off then power then off. it does it very quickly to almost give a judder to acceleration but it is only on light throttle like if im slowly creaping up the revs. and it only tends to do it between 2k and 3.25k max.

you know the noise you get from overboost? it sounds similar to that but when you wouldnt expect the boost to be high enough to overboost.
 
Yes; EGR doesn't function when engine is really cold but you can easily unplug it to make sure (valve will stay shut)

Of course, that wont help if you have a leak into the manifold from the 'elbow' pipe. You could always block it the way T1 suggests with a cut gasket and replace the original
 
Argonought said:
Yes; EGR doesn't function when engine is really cold but you can easily unplug it to make sure (valve will stay shut)
Click to expand...

will do this on the way home from work

Argonought said:
Of course, that wont help if you have a leak into the manifold from the 'elbow' pipe. You could always block it the way T1 suggests with a cut gasket and replace the original
Click to expand...

do you mean where the two pipes meet and are kind of clamped together? it was that pipe that was showing leaks when i removed it but where it connects to the egr although the bolts were finger loose. now they are tight. and it has a new gasket at that point.
 
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No; I mean the pipe that bolts (2) directly onto the butterfly assembly which in turn is bolted directly onto the inlet manifold.

I think you're referring to the exhaust connection which is below the EGR valve (not been there yet :D)
 
Well i disconnected it at work and drove to kirstys work to pick her up and the noise has gone! Its now at right temp so will run it home to be sure but first thoughts are that its the elbow from egr to throttle boy as u said argo.

For the first time in over a year my car might run 100%! :woot:
 
Argo to the rescue!! If it works, kiss the steering wheel and ask it politely never to misbehave again ;)
 
ok it didnt do it on the way home but i did get the engine management light on twice?? could this just be due to the egr as a sensor not being connected?

ive also just confused myself, if you think about it both pipes from the egr are under pressure all the time? from egr to throttle is under pressure due to manifold pressure and the exhaust to egr due to the exhaust pressure? so why has the noise gone just because the egr isnt connected? surely if it was either of them pipes then it would do it all the time??

my head hurts so much :(
 
You will get a warning light if you disconnect any sensor.
 
Not saying that is neccessarily the problem, but they are a bit fickle. You only have to twang a wire and they are a write off sometimes. Very fragile item. Can you not borrow one from a nearby owner. Hell, you could try mine if you were local.
 
i hear what your saying but it doesnt really tie in with the problem? if it was the maf then it would be continuous regardless of what i did to the egr?

that fact the problem stops with the egr not connected and starts again with it connected would mean its something around that area wouldnt it?

back to the maf though i do have the original and it looks pretty clean but was replaced as i thought it buggered up? could try that in again? see if it makes a difference? or even disconnect that too and look for a change?
 
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