Hello all. Some time ago, i had to change the motoroil. the sump oil drain plug was tight. I could not get it loose.

I bought a 12v external oil pump, and sucked the oil out through the opening where the oil dipstick is.
But even when the oil is warm that took about half an hour.

Now I see that a new oil pan can be bought for €30.
Perhaps there's one thing left to do. Drain the oil again and slowly heat the area around the drain plug.
Do you think it has a chance of succeeding ?
Or better buy a new sump pan ?

That should work but change copper washer on plug

Is the sump pan in bad shape? If so, I’d replace it anyway to stop it rusting through.

Really p’s me off that dealers and mechanics over tighten things like that.

I replaced a rusted through sump on my Panda and it came with a nice new sump plug and rubber seal fitted to it. Might be a good idea if you can get it for 30 EUR. Especially if you can fit it yourself. To speed up the drain you could just pierce a hole in the old one

SB1500: well, the sump pan is still in good condition.
But every time i want to change the oil I have to use the oil pump. That's going to be pretty annoing.

Unortunately i don't have a garage or car ramp or anthing else to lift the car, so i must work underneath the car while it's on the floor. Not an ideal situation.

Another possibility might be to "rent" garage space. A do-it-yourself garage.

I don't understand why you can't undo the thing, or why a new sump would help.

This might sound like a stupid question but are you sure you've been trying to loosen the engine sump nut and not the one for the gearbox? I ask this as they're quite similar and an easy mistake for a novice mechanic to make.
You don't say what year your Scudo is but the older model has a bolt which can be removed by spanner or Allen key. If yours can only be opened by Allen key, ideally you would have used an Allen key socket and ratchet to remove it in the first place.
If the hex hole is worn, you should still be able to unscrew it using a vice grips by grabbing the outside edge of the bolt. If that doesn't work, try hitting the bolt a couple of times with a heavy hammer to shock it loose and use the vice grips again. If that's no good but you have a blow torch, heat around the bolt and try shifting it. Lastly is using a chisel and hammer, cut an edge into the bolt head with the chisel blade and a few good anticlockwise taps should get it moving.
If you're going to change the sump as a last resort, use my methods first as replacing a bolt is so much easier than buying and fitting a new sump.

What's different between engine and gearbox nut cheers

r masters said:

What's different between engine and gearbox nut cheers

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I presume you're trying to be smart as I've read similar sarcastic comments from you on my posts before.
FYI, on occasion I've witnessed folks draining the gearbox instead of the sump as on some engines the bolts/nuts are quite similar and can be in close proximity to each other hence my question to the O.P.
If you can offer useful advice to the guy who's asked for help instead of trolling, then knock yourself out.

ZOG: ??? Because there's no room underneath the car for this job. You need enough clearance. So raising it for at least 3 feet. And why a new pan ? Because I allready said the oil drain plug can't be removed. It would take so much force that the pan might crack. So in my opinion you can either use an external oil pump (which takes a lot of time) or to change the oil pan with a new oil drain plug.

Steo M:

My scudo ia a 1997 1.6 petrol version. I'm pretty sure it's the oil pan drain plug. It's located in the middle at the bottom of the sump. drain plugs for the gear box are usually located "sideways". the drain plug is sort an "internal" allen bolt. you can't just use a vise grip.

This is it:


I believe this is the gearbox drain plug, or isn't it ?

My bad, you are right but it looks in pretty good condition albeit a bit rusty. A few bangs of a ball pein hammer and an Allen key socket on the end of a power bar should move it. Try a bit of heat as well.

Nothing wrong with that drain plug that a decent long allen key won't sort out & you will not crack the sump.....

Not trying to be smart at all, I can't see what difference it makes if it was the gearbox or engine oil was getting drained the bolt is stuck, and your comment was are u sure you have right nut.

r masters said:

Not trying to be smart at all, I can't see what difference it makes if it was the gearbox or engine oil was getting drained the bolt is stuck, and your comment was are u sure you have right nut.

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Now you're being pedantic, the O.P. has posted pics of a stubborn sump plug so it's cleared that up. Myself and other posters have suggested different ways of loosening the bolt unless you have something constructive to add?

Yourself and others posted after I was first to comment on the op asking if ok to use heat, which I replied yes but change copper washer so read post before commenting on myself.

robdyk said:

ZOG: ??? Because there's no room underneath the car for this job. You need enough clearance. So raising it for at least 3 feet. And why a new pan ? Because I allready said the oil drain plug can't be removed. It would take so much force that the pan might crack. So in my opinion you can either use an external oil pump (which takes a lot of time) or to change the oil pan with a new oil drain plug.

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3' is a huge amount. I normally lift my van about 18" which is OK. Give it a go with the heat spanner and a key which fits very well. and a bit of pipe on it!

r masters said:

Yourself and others posted after I was first to comment on the op asking if ok to use heat, which I replied yes but change copper washer so read post before commenting on myself.

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You're a regular on the Scudo thread so claiming credit for being the first to agree with the OP about using heat on a seized bolt hardly deserves a pat on the back.
You know your stuff which could help a lot of people so there's no need for this alpha male nonsense, we're all here to help each other.

I am not looking for a pat on the back, know did I mention wanting credit neither, when I asked you about the engine and gearbox bolts I was asking a question not been sarcastic, I thought there might of been a different rotation on them that's all nothing else, I did not join forum to argue the toss about posts.

Aye, I've lost count on the times that I've said forums/social sites can be funny places at times. Lost in translation covers a multitude of sins.. Coupled with the initial information given, can be vague & sketchy about said problem with a vehicle. A photograph can speak volumes, especially so in this case.

Having the proper tools & equipment is half the battle & of course we can assume anything, in reality we are offering an educated guess, after all it's only easy if you know the answer.....

My normal way to get the vehicle higher is to run one side wheels up on the kerb and jack up the other side to get it roughly level. Depending on the height of the kerb, the lift will likely be at least 6 inches. As for the plug, if you have an impact wrench, a good fitting allen socket could be the answer. The type of plug shown is a tapered one and should be tightened just enough to effect a seal and not come loose. A torque setting is, no doubt, available but commonsense is just as good. Hope that helps, Gooner2, ( new member ).