i still think the radiator got fuc_ked up cuz of the sudden pressure change, who knows how long thermostat was stuck opened and engine never warmed up to the normal temp and then boom i changed it and the pressure was higher so it bursted

flisko said:

i still think the radiator got fuc_ked up cuz of the sudden pressure change, who knows how long thermostat was stuck opened and engine never warmed up to the normal temp and then boom i changed it and the pressure was higher so it bursted

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Pressure would certainly be higher with the thermostat working normally, but not, I'd think, to that extent. Still radiators do spring leaks/rot out.

agree with fingers, this is afterall the purpose of the cap.. be absolutely certain thats what is leaking before replacing as last thing you want to happen is drain, replace, refill, bleed and then find it still leaks and you have to drain and start again.

If it really is the rad though don't worry, a new one can be had to your door for £30 or less

it leaks where those metal clamps meet the plastic

http://imageshack.com/a/img822/2738/a5ab.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img543/9943/jvg0.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img191/1336/duib.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img855/9512/qnxi.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img17/1770/gfvr.jpg

lets say i use high-heat silicone to fix the leak, i am wondering if radiator will then just start to leak somewhere else?

I can't see silicone sticking effectively. Polyurethane, maybe, if you can clean up the surfaces adequately. But I'd get a new radiator and avoid the pain.

what about that black silicone which u apply on head or rocker cover gasket, was watching some guy on youtube almost fully covering radiator with some red silicone

Still don't think it'll do it. Polyurethane -- something like Sikkaflex (sets much harder than silicone -- give it at least 12 hours -- and it's a genuine adhesive, which silicone isn't) or use an epoxy.

But, like I say, I'd just replace it.

also noticed since my radiator has been leaking that the temp gauge isnt sitting exactly at the middle like it was before, but like 0.5cm below

Hmmm.

I'd replace the rad. If the thing is loosing water there's always the danger that the temp sensor is seeing air -- in which case it won't record properly. At that point the engine is in extreme trouble.

Compression test, replace rad.

fingers99 said:

Hmmm.

I'd replace the rad. If the thing is loosing water there's always the danger that the temp sensor is seeing air -- in which case it won't record properly. At that point the engine is in extreme trouble.

Compression test, replace rad.

Click to expand...

lets say if my head gasket is bad wont a new rad just leak again

flisko said:

lets say if my head gasket is bad wont fitting a new rad just leak again

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Maybe. That's why I said "compression test, replace rad".

The rad is FUBAR anyway.

how to test for a failed head gasket

only thing i didnt tried yet is step 4, but everything else is appears to be good

Well, those are simple, try it at home without using any tools things. The definitive test is a compression test (or, if your mechanic knows his arse from his elbow, a coolant pressurisation test with the engine running can also be definitive).

fingers99 said:

Well, those are simple, try it at home without using any tools things. The definitive test is a compression test (or, if your mechanic knows his arse from his elbow, a coolant pressurisation test with the engine running can also be definitive).

Click to expand...

u mean opening radiator cap while cold and then start the car to see if there are bubbles

flisko said:

u mean opening radiator cap while cold and then start the car to see if there are bubbles

Click to expand...

No. I mean a compression test. Some stuff here.

Warm up the engine, unplug the TDC sensor (so no spark, no fuel past the injector), proceeed.

On UK eBay (at least) you can pick up the testers for less than £20 posted, and they're probably the best general diagnostic tool out there.

Go for it. The cheap ones are not the nicest to use, but they'll do the job and should last you a lifetime.

so bad compression on any of the cylinders means head gasket is gone

Really you're looking for -- more usually -- an adjoining pair of cylinders with low compression. But sometimes just one can be down to that.