:bang: After replacing head gasket and doing a full head re-con, valve grinding etc, engine runs fine but has a loud rattle/knocking noise making it sound like tramp steamer or tractor! I'm convinced top end is all ok and noise louder if I stick my ear under engine. Have removed sump and checked one big-end bearing but that looks in good shape so now stumped! It's noisier under load and during overrun and once engine has warmed up. Anyone got any ideas? I've checked similar threads on here but not found a cure. If you want to have a listen I've uploaded a video to youtube on this link:
Technical 2003 Punto 1.28v Engine Rattle/knocking
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Technical 2003 Punto 1.28v Engine Rattle/knocking
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No oil going to the cylinder top end me thinks....
probably put the HG on backwards....
The tapping could also be the shimming is out
The shims allow the valves to open and close at the correct time
if the gap is to big - the valve train physically slaps the top of the shims
My advice
Take the airbox off - take the rocker bolts off and see if the cam is getting lubricated by the spray bar
If its bone dry up there - then the car needs to be towed back and repaired PROPERLY
No oil = Fast wear
if its spraying and lubricating, then it'll be everywhere, so peak inside, dont just rip the cover off
OR
You can cheat a lil
Disconnect the crank sensor (will put EML on for a few runs though)
And with it disconnected, the oil should be going nicely over after the oil pressure light goes out
Ziggy
probably put the HG on backwards....
The tapping could also be the shimming is out
The shims allow the valves to open and close at the correct time
if the gap is to big - the valve train physically slaps the top of the shims
My advice
Take the airbox off - take the rocker bolts off and see if the cam is getting lubricated by the spray bar
If its bone dry up there - then the car needs to be towed back and repaired PROPERLY
No oil = Fast wear
if its spraying and lubricating, then it'll be everywhere, so peak inside, dont just rip the cover off
OR
You can cheat a lil
Disconnect the crank sensor (will put EML on for a few runs though)
And with it disconnected, the oil should be going nicely over after the oil pressure light goes out
Ziggy
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Hi Ziggy, thanks for your reply. I'm sure the HG is on right way and have already double-checked under the rocker cover and re-checked all the shim gaps which are all good. Although it may not sound like it on my video, the top-end is now very quiet and it's getting plenty of oil. Hence I was sure it must be bottom end as it's a deeper knocking noise and fully expected to find the big-end bearing shells looking like tin foil! I guess I'll check the bearings on the 3 remaining pistons and if they're ok put it all back together and hope for the best!
Not sure what that is,
But your timing belt is Way to tight, (water pump wont last long)
But your timing belt is Way to tight, (water pump wont last long)
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you got that from video? how?
Sounds more like a rattle than anything else...have you checked the exhaust shield to make sure that isn't loose and rattling ? I'm guessing that was all taken off when the HG was changed and from your Video it looks like it has a big crack in it and the right hand side appears to be moving
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Are you Mutton jeff?
can you not hear the Whirrr..ing noise when loud pedal is pressed?
turn sound up on yew tube video,
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still dont hear it
Thanks everyone so far for the feedback. I'll certainly check the tension of timing belt! When you listen to the video ignore the general rattle and listen for the background clank clank clank - imagine an old steamboat on a canal - it's that noise. I know the heat shield is cracked etc but that's not the problem, I can clamp that and makes no difference. A real mystery this one, so will post if I ever find out what it is!
is all the 10mm bolts in the crankpulley fully tight?
if not pulley will rattle..and sound like big ends fubard,
Have checked the crank pulley bolts and they're all tight (hoped it would have been loose!) . All the big end bearings seem fine so looks like I will have to take the head back off and push out the pistons to check the rings (unless anyone knows a way of doing this from below?) I'm assuming the pistons have to be removed out the top of engine?
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Yes pistons in and out via top
To come out bottom requires a gearbox and crank removal but still it may be hard
Ziggy
Thanks Ziggy. Can I ask one more daft question which will probably have you burying your face in your hands! As the engine has only run for about 30 mins since replacing the head gasket, if I pull the head off again can I re-use the gasket or is new one always required?
Are you sure the gasket is the right way around? Is the little rectangular tab sticking out by the dipstick?
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HG are compression seals....
So no not really
UNLESS you are bunging it back together to roll it to a scrappy
I'd reuse bolts, but not HG
ziggy
So no not really
UNLESS you are bunging it back together to roll it to a scrappy
I'd reuse bolts, but not HG
ziggy
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HG are compression seals....
So no not really
UNLESS you are bunging it back together to roll it to a scrappy
I'd reuse bolts, but not HG
ziggy
autodata shows that you can reuse head bolts
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Update - decided to remove the head, when I exposed the cam belt the I discovered if I tapped the tensioner pulley with my finger it knocked against the cyl head and made an earily familiar knocking noise! I figure the outer bearing was not properly seated on the inner mounting. After removing and re-fitting it no longer knocks when I tap it. Guessing that may be source of the mystery noise! Decided as got this far may as well remove the head to check the pistons. When head removed each piston had a small pool of oil on the tops....wondering if this has leaked through from the valve seals which are all new!? Anyway have removed piston 4 and it has a broken oil ring and some scuffing on the piston edges above the rings and on one skirt. Hmmmm. Going to remove remaining pistons to check condition and providing nothing too terminal will renew all the rings. Anyone got any good tips for fitting piston rings without breaking them?
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There actually quiet strong to a degree
I found it easier to fit 1 end in, with the rest above the piston crown, and to work around pulling it down and in
A broken oil ring though will cause a pool of oil as blow by forces oil past the rings
A broken ring will cause a heavy smacking/tapping sound as well
Ziggy
