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Technical Punto Mk2 HGT Rear Engine/Gear box mount...

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Technical Punto Mk2 HGT Rear Engine/Gear box mount...

Dark_Crusader

Dark_Crusader

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Heya Guys,
A quick q., I've been trying to get the bolt off that secures the mount to the Punto's chasis since the Garage informed me they could not do it as it had 'seized' any ideas when you look at it if it unscrews clockwise or anti-clockwise? I'm thinking anti but would like confirmation as I have been at it most of today and it's been an absolute B*****d and has not budged even with unlocking spray!
:bang:

Thanks!
 
It REALLY requires some effort, unlikely to have seized. I had to get a socket on it and a meter long lever. Just a pole round the wrench. Really give it some and it should eventually come loose!
All bolts unscrew anti-clockwise
 
Thanks Bredsticz I will give it a try later today, I'm quite anxious to change it as have had my gearbox done not too long ago, it appears to get that done they cut though the rubber in the mount to get the ring free? so currently got a bit of knocking/clunking and slight jarring when car is moving off or going over bumps. So really don't want to end up with a knackred box again as it drives perfectly now. I have a replacement mount I just need to fit it!
 
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If you can get an impact gun in there it will be of some help. Im assuming youve cleaned the bolt thoroughly, get plus gas at it and apply every hour. Then give it hell with a 2 metre pole. Make sure the socket is on it fully or it will shear the head. We once had to loosen and tighten a pinion on a rear axle with those methods. The nut in question had to be tightened to 1200 lbs ft of torque :eek:
 
Haha that'd require some effort. Yeah me and my friend did it between us. He held the socket secure onto the bolt while I pulled like there was no tomorrow!
Car was pretty much tilting on the axel stands (y)

Lucky the pole I used left me beside the car rather than under it. I wouldn't cut around it either. If you can't do it get a longer pole and abit more effort! (y)
 
The top bolt on my HGT gearbox mount seized I got it out by doing the WD40 & back/forwards thing, but the thread was in a bad way.

Another time I will run some arc weld on the bolt head to heat it up (disconnect battery alternator AND unplug the ECU). The bolt will be sha**ed, but the threads in the chassis should survive.

There's a danger the captive weldnut can shear off inside the box section - then you really are screwed (or not :eek: ) with a spinning bolt and no space to saw it off.
 
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WhiteSei said:
The top bolt on my HGT gearbox mount seized I got it out by doing the WD40 & back/forwards thing, but the thread was in a bad way.

Another time I will run some arc weld on the bolt head to heat it up (disconnect battery alternator AND unplug the ECU). The bolt will be sha**ed, but the threads in the chassis should survive.

There's a danger the captive weldnut can shear off inside the box section - then you really are screwed (or not :eek: ) with a spinning bolt and no space to saw it off.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that mate (y). I've since had a go again and drawn blood a couple of times trying to get it off :eek:

When you reffered to the backward/forward thing did you mean screwing/unscrewing or wiggling it (not that it will do a lot of it :p) from side to side to free it? Getting about this close to admitting defeat and giving it to my sisters mechanic to look at, getting really frustating now, wondering if the inernal nut you refferred to has been compromised somehow as it does move a little either side...:bang:
 
You got it. :)

Run some arc weld onto the top of the bolt head. The concentrated heat will run down the bolt expand it and break any corrosion - hopefully. If all that fails cut a hole with a hole saw in the box section under the wheel arch and try some more heat with a carbon rod on the other end. (I suspect the bolt tail has corroded and that's jamming the threads.

It's more work and will need a plate over the hole, but still 100% better than shearing off the captive nut. Dont forget to Dinitrol/Waxoyl inside the box section.
 
WhiteSei said:
You got it. :)

Run some arc weld onto the top of the bolt head. The concentrated heat will run down the bolt expand it and break any corrosion - hopefully. If all that fails cut a hole with a hole saw in the box section under the wheel arch and try some more heat with a carbon rod on the other end. (I suspect the bolt tail has corroded and that's jamming the threads.

It's more work and will need a plate over the hole, but still 100% better than shearing off the captive nut. Dont forget to Dinitrol/Waxoyl inside the box section.
Click to expand...

Thanks again WhiteSei, not sure about the whole arc thing it's a little out of my depth, but appreciate the suggestion!(y)
 
If the bolt has siezed there are 2 (maybe 3) options -

1 - F- off bug breaker bar and hope nothing shears off

2 - Put some heat directly into the bolt. A gas torch is good but arc welders are easier to get hold of.

3 - get access to the back and see if its corroded into its nut. If it has, you can clean it and WD40 it.

The snag with those gearbox mounts is they have captive nuts spot welded to the chassis inside a box section. The bolt might take lots of abuse, but those spot welds wont. If the nut shears loose from the chassis you are well screwed so be careful.
 
bredsticz said:
haha that'd require some effort. Yeah me and my friend did it between us. He held the socket secure onto the bolt while i pulled like there was no tomorrow!
Car was pretty much tilting on the axel stands (y)

Lucky the pole i used left me beside the car rather than under it. I wouldn't cut around it either. If you can't do it get a longer pole and abit more effort! (y)
Click to expand...


hiya mate i need a mount off the gear box, at the back it connects on to the subframe from the gear box. The one i have the bush has cracked.?. So need to replace it, i think its called the reaction mount? Email me asap [email protected] . Cheers
 
Run some arc weld onto the bolt heat and let it cool - puts the heat exactly where its needed. Then use the big breaker bar Try a little tightening before going for the unscrew and always remember:
Righty - tighty (same as a bottle top)
Lefty - Lucy

If the spot welds shear you will have to use a hole saw to cut though the other side of the box section to access the nut. A new nut will have to be welded in place and the access hole plated over. Finally, everything fully waxoyled inside and out.
 
Hi. I have a 1999 hgt, the bottom engine mount bolt/screw has before sheared off and I see someone has attempted a really bad weld on a large bolt to attsach the dog bone mount to attach the 2 together.. like I said it has failed again...Is there a proper bolt to use(although the recess hole is only a few mil deep) will it require more welding, after tidying up of course, im contemplating welding a sheet of steel over the top of the base of the bolt to help strengthen the bolts integrity..
atm if I drive it I got lots of banging and clunking when I accelerate and deccelerate.. infact all the time...
so to recap, is there a proper pin to be used or will I have to re bodge it and strengthen the weld with steel overplate....
cheers in advance
 
mikehopper said:
Hi. I have a 1999 hgt, the bottom engine mount bolt/screw has before sheared off and I see someone has attempted a really bad weld on a large bolt to attsach the dog bone mount to attach the 2 together.. like I said it has failed again...Is there a proper bolt to use(although the recess hole is only a few mil deep) will it require more welding, after tidying up of course, im contemplating welding a sheet of steel over the top of the base of the bolt to help strengthen the bolts integrity..
atm if I drive it I got lots of banging and clunking when I accelerate and deccelerate.. infact all the time...
so to recap, is there a proper pin to be used or will I have to re bodge it and strengthen the weld with steel overplate....
cheers in advance
Click to expand...

Ive replied in your other thread.

Alan
 
I have just replaced this mount today and it meant find a high quality socket and it meant holding the drive shaft and pushing as hard as I could with my foot! Is it necessary for the hole to be so big compared to the bolt?
 
I have just replaced this mount today and it meant find a high quality socket and it meant holding the drive shaft and pushing as hard as I could with my foot! Is it necessary for the hole to be so big compared to the bolt?
 
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