portland_bill said:

The clock resetting at each startup is usually the first sign of a weak battery. Either from lack of use, or just getting old. As the starter takes a lot of power, the clock sees a voltage drop, and resets. Further random electrical issues would follow.

If the middle button is stuck, you might be able to effect a cure if the outer cover is removed, see what is there and how accessible.

The instrument panel remembers the mileage, which is also held in the body computer. If they do not match, the display will flash until they are aligned. You can only align them upwards, to whichever is the higher. If you find a panel showing a higher mileage than yours, that will be your mileage going forward. If you find a lower mileage replacement, it can be aligned to match your current reading. This alignment requires either the dealer diagnostic tool, or a program called MultiECUscan (MES). There are many threads about this, but you need a PC, the software, a licence (€50) and the connector and cables. Alternatively, you need someone nearby with MES, willing to come help. Difficult during lockdown. There's a section about MES location volunteers.

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DaveMcT said:

It's interesting the Body Computer needs 6V to keep the clock running. My wife's car was starting and the steering worked normally, but the clock was resetting at every cold start. When I checked the battery voltage on engine start, it was dropping to 7.5 volts.

Now that battery was showing 14.2V with engine running and high 12s with engine off. It was also holding charge, I mean the car always started. However that >7 volts start voltage showed at least one cell was weak and bottoming out when called on to do some real work.

New battery and all was fine again.

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