General  Miserable MOT Day

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General  Miserable MOT Day

What sort of painting should I do on it, product wise.

If it's not too expensive I will as I'm tight on the cash ATM.

If I wasn't to paint it - and my intentions ARE to paint it - how long would it last?

Because if 4+ years then that's likely the retirement age of the car and it won't be as urgent.

At the same time I do enjoy doing these little fine details for good practice and the satisfaction of DIY
 
As I said earlier, worth painting while you're at it. Etch primer for a key, then there is a plethora of metal paints to choose from. Zinc rich, cold galvanised etc. Hammerite would be better than nothing. I suspect the coat of paint on the new sump would not really be up to much. Get it done, good project....:)

I also suspect that most new sumps are not of quality steel, depending where purchased from of course. So who knows how long these last.
 
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I suspect the coat of paint on the new sump would not really be up to much.

I suspect you're right. The coat of paint on OEM sumps on cars straight out of the factory certainly isn't up to much.

If I wasn't to paint it - and my intentions ARE to paint it - how long would it last?

Well the original lasted ten years (in spite of the paint not being up to much), so that should give you some idea ;).

The purists will shudder in horror but even if you do nothing, it'll outlast the rest of your car and you could likely better spend both the time and the money doing something else.

Personally I'd smear it all over with high melting point grease (after fitting) and then forget about it. It'll soon be covered in a protective dust/grease film and all you'll have to be careful of is cleaning around the sump plug when you change the oil.

Long term, grease protects against corrosion better than paint in concealed areas.
 
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DaveMcT

Will the red tubes I bought a few months ago be okay? We still have some sitting around. Think it was for the rocker cover.

I will use this if you say so as I know you (and the others) know your stuff!

Tomorrow we will be putting it on so I appreciate you telling me this.


also, cleared the duck bills today. They were blocked again!!! Waxoyl'd a part of the wiper linkage that was looking a bit rusty.

I tried posting this the other day - lost the web..,:(

DO NOT use "normal sealant" - I did - fitted it 3 x times.. PIA:cry:

https://www.fiatforum.com/punto/4642-fiat-punto-new-sump-leaking.html

https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-ii/281282-oil-leak-sump.html

the Official sealant, how it's bonded in place at the factory, is REALLY THICK - like toothpaste

you'll see how well stuck in place the old one is,;)

another tip, get the car in position the day before - if you run the engine..the oil will be dripping back down on you FOR HOURS . . now you know what a ballakke it was to keep remounting the sump pan:shakehead:
 
I like Loctite 518 because it's really a gasket replacement rather than just a sealant. The method I posted above allows you to get it properly aligned before pressing it into place and fitting the screws.

Paint? Personally I would. Yes its probably not important as you say the old one lasted 10 years but to me its only a half job when they waft a Yobbo Brand black rattle can over the bare metal.

I would etch prime the OEM paint and then paint with ordinary slow drying polyurethane black. It's tough and not prone to chipping.

You could even fit an aluminium stone chip guard to the front or (better) a short under-tray but that's massive overkill. Even my OCD isn't that bad.
 
It's a tin sump fellas, not a Ming vase!

Whether you just fit it without painting, or paint it with anything to hand, or buy expensive specialist products to treat it with - it's gonna outlast the car anyway.

Just fit it and move on.
 
Well guys, the new sump is in.

The old one was a right f*cker to get off. The two little small funny looking bolts were an ass to get out and a bigger ass to get back in.

It was great seeing the inner workings of the engine, I can confirm that Magnatec DOES cling to the parts beautifully. The oil pump is a funny looking thing too.

We used the Loctite 518 as you said DaveMcT.

Thankfully, didn't have to drop the exhaust though it would have been much easier if we did. (The lack of a flex joint played a role in that decision).

Going to keep an eye on it now over the next few days.

MOT retest is on Thursday, wish me luck!

We didn't paint it. This was due to time and sort of budget. Although I do see the value in doing it and appreciate all the advice on it.


I noticed there's parts of the chassis that are showing signs of Surface rust and ruptured finishes.

On a related note, This is also the first 'pattern part' with no brand name we've fitted.

It's starting to sink in now that while the car can last another few years, it won't last forever and that yes I should actively patch it up when it's required but perhaps the days of Genuine Fiat Parts are over for it.

To be honest, it's got good suspension, a good clutch etc so the more important aspects weren't cheaped out on!

I'm starting to think is buying another Panda next going to be the same story 8 years down the line? Hmm. IMG_1479167220.660130.jpg
 
Lol I know what you mean. Sometimes I think about the worth of chucking more money into an 11.5 year old Panda with 120K miles on it myself. But still I prefer my wee beastie to something a little bit newer.
 
Got my MOT booked for today at 5.35.

Checked the sump, very fine layer of it harboured at the base of the sump.. wiped it off.

Hope it doesn't come back.

Also, touched the red Loctite 518 seal and it's still very soft.. when will it dry? Maybe it's allowing a leak?
 
518 sets only between the joint faces, so any excess will remain soft. That's the benefit - any excess cant fall off to get stuck in an oil gallery.

DaveMcT We're re-doing it tomorrow because there's still oil seeping through, especially from the round side edges. We think it's the Loctite 518 that wasn't suitable as it seems so soft perhaps it's letting the oil through. Although it seems like a great product with the anaerobic properties I think the standard Loctite 5900 or Loctite 270 (as stated on Fiat ePER) will be our next resort, even if just to rule that out.

We did plaster it all around the bolt holes too with the 518, but there's definitely a leak as we lifted it up and saw it sadly.

Some people are saying not to use silicone sealant but the two other products I mentioned are recommended by Fiat so it is confusing.

My last alternative is to ask the guys at the motor factors what they suggest?
 
You have to use RTV adhesive, there are a few choices like pro seal black instant gasket. Put a decent bead round the sump, obviously every thing must be clean, use acetone or similar . Now, if the sump mating surface is dead flat...KEEP THE BEAD TO THE INSIDE OF THE BOLT HOLES DO NOT GO ROUND THEM. Only go round if there's a groove round the sump surface & holes. Then mate the sump without wiggling about & smearing the bead of adhesive.

Take your time & bolt up in correct order, diagonally. :)
 
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