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Technical Poorly running 4x4 TA

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Technical Poorly running 4x4 TA

Goudrons

Goudrons

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Bugger!
My 4x4 TA has started running rough.

It's a few days short of it's second birthday with just over 12k on it.

Yesterday, when pulling away from cold after about 150 yards it coughed, stuttered, clattered and shuddered.

Not a full misfire, it was definitely still firing both pots, it was more like the it lost most of it's power like it was retarded and sounded awful for a few seconds.

It seem to snap out of it as the revs rose and it drove ok the rest of the short trip.

Today, same trip, same place, it did it again, but this time did it again 10 minutes later and again after that.

When I eventually pulled up home, it didn't sound too happy, noisier/rougher somehow, but was pulled reasonably well without the flat spots.

Seems to do it when pulling away, I lift the clutch, apply some throttle and it struggles to build revs smoothly, looses power and sounds all clattery and shuddery.

There's no EML lite, but I'm starting to think it's got a problem with valve timings!
 
Just checked oil level and it's spot on as it always is, but it's now idling like this:
Tick a, tick a, tick a, tick a, tick a and so on.

Sounds like it's coming from the head/valve train and it makes my fillings arch!

Had a quick look around the web and on Alfaowners, the Multiair can fail if the wrong oil has been used and they go around 2k after it's been put in.
Mine was in for an service/oil change at the dealer 2k ago!
 
Goudrons said:
Just checked oil level and it's spot on as it always is, but it's now idling like this:
Tick a, tick a, tick a, tick a, tick a and so on.

Sounds like it's coming from the head/valve train and it makes my fillings arch!

Had a quick look around the web and on Alfaowners, the Multiair can fail if the wrong oil has been used and they go around 2k after it's been put in.
Mine was in for an service/oil change at the dealer 2k ago!
Click to expand...

if I partially stall mine, it sounds spectacularly rough for @ 10 seconds:eek:

strange how yours does it in fits..,

what's the story with the wrong oil..??:confused:
for info = shop4parts list the new unit @£500:rolleyes:

Charlie
 
Looking at some Alfaowner threads, some owners report their Multiair system failing shorty after a service, 2 thousand seems to come up.
It's been suggested wrong oil is to blame and that some dealers aren't using the proper spec.

I can't say for certain what the dealer put in, but it was 2 thousands miles ago when mine was serviced.

I'll ring tomorrow morning and book it in, but I'm not to happy about driving it there as it sounds like cement mixer running on marbles!

Would running it in cause any damage if it was a fault with the Multiair system?
 
I wonder how your spark plugs are doing? Mine had almost cooked one of my plugs the earth fork was almost all but gone. It would hesitate etc under loaded acceleration. Might be worth a check.
 
circolo said:
I wonder how your spark plugs are doing? Mine had almost cooked one of my plugs the earth fork was almost all but gone. It would hesitate etc under loaded acceleration. Might be worth a check.
Click to expand...

Actually, the plugs have been mentioned a few times so yes, get out there and check them. If nothing else, it eliminates something but if you're lucky, it'll be a relatively cheap fix.
 
Hi All, I have had this as an intermittent problem from before the first service.
Mine is June 2014. Have taken to two dealers, who have both said NO FAULT FOUND. I have broken down in the outside lane of a fast duel Carriageway, this brought the EM light full on and the car refused to restart. After being recovered, about 3 hours later the car coughed into life and the EM light went out. Both dealers say no logged fault code!!. My dealer I purchased from states that them or Fiat have no knowledge of this issue. Oil levels and grades have been a point of blame, and I now understand that with a VVT engine holding only about 3.5 liters means that this is critical. Some comments are that overfilling somehow stresses the Camshaft sensor, and I understand their a several timing modes. I have seen a thread last week that replacing this has fixed the fault, but can no longer find it. I have been back to my dealer with whom I have a lot of confidence, but he is giving me a hard luck version that is, unless they have an EM fault code Fiat will not pay. A bit difficult for me about 100 miles from them. And I am told that any EM error is soon removed!. I have my own Diagnostic Kit so hopefully, I can capture it if it happens again.
 
Goudrons said:
Well after a few tentative trips around the block it's seems to run a lot better.
The clattery sound seems to have died off and it's as smooth as ever (so not very smooth).

It looks like it just needed burping!
Click to expand...

Could still be an intermittent fault so worth leaving it in anyway to get codes checked etc, also worth having a gander at the plugs.
 
That is exactly what I experienced for a while after I got the car to restart. Drove back home with everything crossed (240 miles) with no repeat.
 
Thanks for your comment, but unlikely except that when she stopped I was using the higher Octane fuel. I Wonder?. It is not supposed to make a difference. With at least 1/2 tank. and after 1 hour plus of motorway running.
 
Even though it's been running reasonable well for the last week after coughing and spluttering the week before, I decided I'll try a new set of plugs.

I ordered up some genuine items from Shop4parts, P/N 55242187
(I wanted genuine FPT branded, but I would normally use stock NGK's)

A Laser 3682, which is a long, slim, magnetic plug socket, none of mine would fit down the slim plug holes of the TA engine.

Some Clic R pliers to remove and refit the air intake pipe clip.

The only other tool needed is a 10mm socket for the air intake trumpet, engine cover and the bolts for the coils.

They aren't that hard to get at.
Unclip the Clic R clip on the air pipe to the air box/engine cover on the front left.
(you can just flick this open with a screwdriver, but the special Clic R pliers make refitting it a breeze).

Undo three 10mm bolts, two on the engine cover and one on the intake trumpet to the front panel.

Pull the engine cover forward so a stub at the back/middle of it unhooks and waggle it until the air pipe pops free.

Once the cover is off, unplug the coil wires by pulling outwards the yellow part of the connectors so the connectors are free to pull off the coils.

Unbolt the 10mm bolt holding each coil in place, then a good tug sees them out.

Mine was on the original plugs and had just tripped 12k.
But it's had a lot of short trips around London.

The old ones didn't look too bad and when measuring the gap, they were only a gnats eyelash bigger than the new ones.

So the results?
It does seem a bit perkier and slightly smoother running.
It's old "strum" is back and the "tut a tut a tut a" clatter has completely gone.
Time will tell if the problem has completely gone.
 
Goudrons said:
Even though it's been running reasonable well for the last week after coughing and spluttering the week before, I decided I'll try a new set of plugs.

I ordered up some genuine items from Shop4parts, P/N 55242187
(I wanted genuine FPT branded, but I would normally use stock NGK's)

A Laser 3682, which is a long, slim, magnetic plug socket, none of mine would fit down the slim plug holes of the TA engine.

Some Clic R pliers to remove and refit the air intake pipe clip.

The only other tool needed is a 10mm socket for the air intake trumpet, engine cover and the bolts for the coils.

They aren't that hard to get at.
Unclip the Clic R clip on the air pipe to the air box/engine cover on the front left.
(you can just flick this open with a screwdriver, but the special Clic R pliers make refitting it a breeze).

Undo three 10mm bolts, two on the engine cover and one on the intake trumpet to the front panel.

Pull the engine cover forward so a stub at the back/middle of it unhooks and waggle it until the air pipe pops free.

Once the cover is off, unplug the coil wires by pulling outwards the yellow part of the connectors so the connectors are free to pull off the coils.

Unbolt the 10mm bolt holding each coil in place, then a good tug sees them out.

Mine was on the original plugs and had just tripped 12k.
But it's had a lot of short trips around London.

The old ones didn't look too bad and when measuring the gap, they were only a gnats eyelash bigger than the new ones.

So the results?
It does seem a bit perkier and slightly smoother running.
It's old "strum" is back and the "tut a tut a tut a" clatter has completely gone.
Time will tell if the problem has completely gone.
Click to expand...


Good to hear, I must get one of those pliers, I used some garden wire to pull mine back on! Incidentally do you notice some play on the rear of the engine cover where it fits in to the stub, ie, can you lift the cover slightly at the rear after you tightened it up? I noticed some play in mine and wondered should there be some sort of rubber insert on the stub.
 
Mercky said:
Good to hear, I must get one of those pliers, I used some garden wire to pull mine back on! Incidentally do you notice some play on the rear of the engine cover where it fits in to the stub, ie, can you lift the cover slightly at the rear after you tightened it up? I noticed some play in mine and wondered should there be some sort of rubber insert on the stub.
Click to expand...

I don't remember any play on mine, from when I removed it to get at the oil filter, but here's a photo showing the two parts before they were fitted back together.
Is this how yours looks ?

DSCF1231.JPG
 
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