Why would someone bypass a perfectly good radiator temperature switch?
I've been fiddling under "Graham's" bonnet.
The primary task was to sort out the rad temperature switch that was bypassed.
I assumed that the rad switch was broken - hence the bypass with a switch on the dash.
I restored the wiring back to the original then shorted across the rad switch connector and the fan came into life.
Then drained the radiator to get the old switch out.
The coolant was green without oil or rust - a good sign.
I took off then fan so I could get a big spanner on the rad switch. It would be handy to have a deep socket for the job.
Before I fitted the spare, I thought I should test it.
I clipped an old speaker lead to the spade connectors of the rad switch and put the switch in a pan of water on the cooker. When the water was boiling the switch made contact OK. I let it cool down and heated it up again and it worked OK.
:idea: Then I thought I'd test the old one and it worked too.
So if the old switch worked, why did they bypass it? :bang:
C.T.
I've been fiddling under "Graham's" bonnet.
The primary task was to sort out the rad temperature switch that was bypassed.
I assumed that the rad switch was broken - hence the bypass with a switch on the dash.
I restored the wiring back to the original then shorted across the rad switch connector and the fan came into life.
Then drained the radiator to get the old switch out.
The coolant was green without oil or rust - a good sign.
I took off then fan so I could get a big spanner on the rad switch. It would be handy to have a deep socket for the job.
Before I fitted the spare, I thought I should test it.
I clipped an old speaker lead to the spade connectors of the rad switch and put the switch in a pan of water on the cooker. When the water was boiling the switch made contact OK. I let it cool down and heated it up again and it worked OK.
:idea: Then I thought I'd test the old one and it worked too.
So if the old switch worked, why did they bypass it? :bang:
C.T.