Panda cluch and break hydraulic probs

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Panda cluch and break hydraulic probs

seicentoowner

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I have an issue with my 04 PANDA 1.2. I couldn't get 5th with out the box grinding, it then got worse and i couldn't get first or reverse as well. thought it was a clutch cable issue until i realised it has a hydraulic clutch. Strangely the problem seemed to have fixed it's self when i changed the break pads on the front. this fixed it for a few weeks until yesterday when it started again. today i took the front passenger side wheel off. took the pin out of the break caliper and pushed the piston back that is in the caliper (to do this you must take the cap off the break fluid reservoir) then put it all back together and it seems to have fixed it again, don't know for how long. if anyone could help with a longer term solution or explain why this seems to fix it temporarily I'd then be in a better position to spend some of my limited income on replacement parts to make it a permanent fix. TIA
 
I have an issue with my 04 PANDA 1.2. I couldn't get 5th with out the box grinding, it then got worse and i couldn't get first or reverse as well. thought it was a clutch cable issue until i realised it has a hydraulic clutch. Strangely the problem seemed to have fixed it's self when i changed the break pads on the front. this fixed it for a few weeks until yesterday when it started again. today i took the front passenger side wheel off. took the pin out of the break caliper and pushed the piston back that is in the caliper (to do this you must take the cap off the break fluid reservoir) then put it all back together and it seems to have fixed it again, don't know for how long. if anyone could help with a longer term solution or explain why this seems to fix it temporarily I'd then be in a better position to spend some of my limited income on replacement parts to make it a permanent fix. TIA

There's a master and slave cylinder to operate the clutch. Assuming you have the right fluid levels, it's probably the rubber seals in one or the other cylinder.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, I've checked the master and slave cylinders before. there are no leaks i can see and the slave cylinder moves when the clutch is pressed. the fluid levels are fine. I'm pretty sure that the clutch problem is somehow being caused by the front passenger side brakes as pushing the piston back in the way you would when changing the brake pads is what fixes it temporarily and it seems to work again for a while. this fix has worked a few times but no idea why.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, I've checked the master and slave cylinders before. there are no leaks i can see and the slave cylinder moves when the clutch is pressed. the fluid levels are fine. I'm pretty sure that the clutch problem is somehow being caused by the front passenger side brakes as pushing the piston back in the way you would when changing the brake pads is what fixes it temporarily and it seems to work again for a while. this fix has worked a few times but no idea why.


There's no leaking when the seals have gone, it just bypasses internally.


Maybe your fluid's broken down and needs replacing, or you have some air in the system. Not sure brakes/clutch share the same fluid - it's not a Citroen.


Worth bleeding it I guess.
 
I'm baffled!:confused: As everything I read seems to agree with you that the two systems are not linked but going purely off the evidence the temporary fix has worked three times I don't think it can be a coincidence. So think they must share a reservoir or something. I'm going to replace the seals on the calipers and bleed the system again. I'll let you know if this fixes it. in the mean time if anyone has any other suggestions as to why this "bodge job" seems to restore an "unrelated system" I'd be keen to hear them.
 
I was going to suggest that the gear linkage needed a bit of an adjustment bearing in mind that the tough gears were both at the same end. You'd be looking down below behind where the battery is. You'd need to remove the battery to get down to where you need to adjust.

I can't explain what's happening with your car though.
 
the panda brake hydraulic system is seperate from the clutch hydraulic system so one should not affect the other, what is the mileage on your car
 
I'm baffled!:confused: As everything I read seems to agree with you that the two systems are not linked but going purely off the evidence the temporary fix has worked three times I don't think it can be a coincidence. So think they must share a reservoir or something. I'm going to replace the seals on the calipers and bleed the system again. I'll let you know if this fixes it. in the mean time if anyone has any other suggestions as to why this "bodge job" seems to restore an "unrelated system" I'd be keen to hear them.

:idea: jacking car up to access one front wheel, allows the air in clutch to move a little..then moves again with use.

99% sure they are completely separate systems,
they have been for @20 years..,
( had issues with a combined system on a FIAT Twin cam@1992)

Charlie - Oxford 1.1 panda's
 
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I had that same thought, that it was the jacking of the car that was doing it. So last time it happened I did try just jacking it up and putting it back down. this did nothing. so it was back to my temp fix that did work.
 
I've only had it about 4 months, it was cheap so knew there may be some issues with it. I've been under it this morning and have just been round the town on a test drive, it's all good at the moment. will only be a matter of time before the bloody hydraulics go wrong again though. :bang: ;)
 
it happened again last night, same as before. same temp fix got me going again. have ordered a caliper repair kit to replace all the rubber seals in both front calipers. So in a few days this should hopefully be a longer term repair. on the plus side I'm now getting really quick at jacking the car and getting the wheel of. perhaps a career in a F1 pit crew lays ahead :D
 
The clutch and brake systems are definitely unrelated. The only reason for a hydraulic clutch is right hand drive. It is easier to route a hydraulic hose than a cable, the LHD cars all have cable clutches.
 
it happened again last night, same as before. same temp fix got me going again. have ordered a caliper repair kit to replace all the rubber seals in both front calipers. So in a few days this should hopefully be a longer term repair. on the plus side I'm now getting really quick at jacking the car and getting the wheel of. perhaps a career in a F1 pit crew lays ahead :D

next time.. jack the car for @10 mins each side..
BUT - don't adjust / move ANYTHING - not even removing the wheels..,
then see if it's still "better";)


has yours got ABS..??

Charlie
 
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I had that same thought, that it was the jacking of the car that was doing it. So last time it happened I did try just jacking it up and putting it back down. this did nothing. so it was back to my temp fix that did work.
I've done the jacking it up and putting it back down. I'm past that check. the parts I've ordered should arrive tomorrow so I'll change the seals and see if that works.
 
Just a Quick update.... I have removed the calipers, replaced the rubber seals cleaned up the calipers and refitted yesterday morning, so far it's running well. The rubber ring seals that sit in the caliper were twisted and badly worn as well as the rubber dust shield that fits between the brake piston and the calipers were brittle and cracked it had split right the way around on the passenger side so needed replacing. It's still early days but I've had no clutch problems since repairing the brakes. I'll post in a week or so if it's fixed the issues I was having long term or sooner if it hasn't. :)
 
If the seals that you replaced had been leaking, you would have seen it before you dismantled them. My car has just had a full change of hydraulic fluid, last time was at least 3 years ago, and I can actually feel the improvement, the brakes feel sharper.
 
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