I am thinking of replacing my 1.9 JTD clutch slave cylinder. Having done the clutch a few years ago, I know where it is and that it is attached to the gearbox housing with 2 x 13mm hex head M8 bolts. No problem.

Questions:

1. Once the slave cylinder is detached from the gearbox, do I just pull out the hydraulic pipe retaining clip, and pull the pipe out, and then stick it into the new slave cylinder. Does the pipe just pull straight out after pulling out the clip? Is it that simple?

2. Has anyone done the replacement without removing the battery stand which is a right pain to take out and reinstall? I know that removing the air box will improve access but maybe not enough.

3. Read somewhere that raising the front of the car helps with bleeding - is that so that any air in the system moves to the slave cylinder/bleeding point?

I am doing my car mechanicing away from my house, so I need to know about and try to avoid any potential showstoppers in advance, like not being able to bleed the clutch after replacing the slave cylinder, so it would be good to do the new-for-old changeover as fast as possible to reduce fluid loss, and minimize any bleeding problems.

Any other tips would be welcome.

RSVP

I managed to bleed the clutch Today, and then took a gamble and replaced the slave cylinder. The gamble became real because after successfully bleeding the clutch with the old slave cylinder, when I installed the new slave cylinder, the f-ing one man/person bleed kit broke - the air valve delivering pressurized air from the spare tyre stuck shut meaning the kit was rendered useless! Fortunately there was enough clutch to get to the local parts store before closing time for a replacement.

FYI: I managed to bleed the slave cylinder and install a new one *without* removing the battery and battery stand. Almost certainly easier doing the job removing the latter two, but it was perfectly doable just removing the airbox.

Will post more detail later of what I did and how it went if and when I get some time.

Was potentially facing a stranded car with no clutch so feeling relieved this evening that it panned out OK.

PS. Definite improvement in gear changing.

The pipe running from front bulkhead bleed point near battery was scuffed on ours and a bit porous near the battery. We had to bleed that section every now and again. It is hard to get the air out. I used glue (Qbond) to repair pipe as it was a monster wiggly circuit to have to take out. It has been fine recently for say a year.

The bulkhead bleed point as well as the slave cylinder one need bleeding on ours. We bleed with air pressure bottle from reservoir end. We did not do anything at master cylinder end near the peddles as some have reported.

Mechanic fitted the slave cylinder some time back as it was failing. He advised to push the fluid in from the bottom by the slave cylinder "backwards". I think I did not have the kit to come this way with it though.

Found it a bit of a pig to bleed. Hope yours is OK now.

Update: I bled the clutch the other day and it has been better changing gear but a little "sticky". Went out for a run today and on the way home it became very difficult changing gear. Drove the last 5 miles in 2nd, didn't want to risk trying to change up and not getting any gears at all. The good news is I think the fuel consumption improved driving in 2nd !

Clutch pedal feels softer. Maybe leak, will check reservoir level tomoz, or maybe master cylinder internals gone. Pedal returning so assuming master spring is OK.

I hope the clutch hasn't gone again (done 4 years ago), if so think it'll be get rid time.

And after replacing the aux belt tensioner, the sewing machine noise has returned at low revs. <expletives deleted>.

Likely no help but just in case - it was always cold days made it worst when we had problems with clutch.

MultipleMultis said:

Likely no help but just in case - it was always cold days made it worst when we had problems with clutch.

Click to expand...

Yes, that has been my experience too.

I bled the clutch again today with the Eezibleed kit with the result that I could then get all the gears again but still "sticky" requiring a bit of grunt/force to achieve gear change.

I tried to find the elusive other bulkhead bleed nipple without success despite consulting a couple of pics and posts on t'internet, and removing the engine cover and air box and battery. Locating this nipple seems to be a combination of trying to find a (very small) black cat in a coal cellar at midnight with hacking one's way thru the Borneo jungle (tangle of hoses) with sunglasses on. I gave up. Where the F*** is it?

Could not see any obvious fluid leaks - definitely not from new slave cylinder - so am thinking master cylinder piston seals letting air in? Swap out the guts?

FYI: disappointed with the Eezibleed kit - the valve on the top of the pressure vessel/container is sh*t. For example: the slot on the screw head to regulate the pressure to the fluid reservoir with a screwdriver is extremely shallow (it's obviously been etched on with a very low powered laser from 300 miles away - that's 480 km for our soon to be divorced EU comrades) meaning even a very thin screwdriver blade slips out of the slot, and control of pressure with this valve is a mystery to me. On my previous version which I'd only used twice, the head of the regulator screw sheared off!

However a little research came up with a potentially much better model with good reviews. If it's less than an hour of dodgy garage labour, I might invest:

Sealey VS820 Brake & Clutch Bleeding System
173 reviews, 4.5 stars on Amazon.
£43.25 & FREE Delivery in the UK (05/03/2018).

If anyone has a definitive location for the second bleed nipple, other than "It's somewhere in the engine bay area...", I am interested.

Considering swap out of MC internals (£70 for MC on Ebay inc Click & Collect delivery).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/804877-VA...654050&hash=item41d013b685:g:95MAAOSwOrxZxA-c

On a positive note - the fuel consumption has jumped up 10mpg! from 33mpg yesterday to 43mpg today. I think there is a link between fuel and/or air temp and fuel consumption...

The nipple is on a small rectangular block on mine.

To left of battery and down a bit from memory. I remember spanner size was different to the one on the slave on mine. I did not strip anything out to get to it, but it is a ...

I used a smaller pressure bleeder which was less cash and seems to work OK.

Sealey VS0205 Automatic Brake & Clutch


Remembered I wrote this for my lad to do it, when we ended up doing it a lot ... gmail saves everything !!!


Break fluid dot 4

Bleed fluid from reservoir to the little nipple on bulkhead behind the battery

Setting up
Drop front tyre pressure to 20 psi from the normal 2.3 bar
Put fluid into the “device” fill it up with new fluid.
Put lid on tight, close (wind in the little needle valve on top)

Take cap off break/clutch fluid reservoir - was left full
Connect the device to the reservoir and tighten it
Put bottle somewhere where, it will not fall over and you can see the rate that liquid is coming through
Connect the air pressure valve
Make sure nothing is hissing or leaking
Note new fluid level in the bottle as it will have dropped

Now get ready to open nipple
Put tissue paper under and around it to catch the break fluid
8 mm spanner is used on the silver ish nipple
It is down a bit from the top of the battery and has pipes in and out

Open only about ¼ of a turn and fluid
If liquid not flowing open the needle valve on the bottle a little (wind out)

Let fluid drop about 1 inch in the bottle, make sure no splurges of air coming from the nipple and it is smoothly coming out
Tighten the nipple to close off. Double check the nipple is closed.

Test it
Next try the clutch and see if it is now working

If not repeat the bleeding

If still not working then may need to bleed the next nipple which is below the air box near the battery.
Remove air box to get access –
This is a 7mm nipple on the bleed screw

If doing this you need to move the leaver that gets pushed by the pedal in and out to make sure no air is in this part while the break nipple is open
Again use paper to catch fluid and make sure something is under the car to catch anything dripping on the drive

Always double check the nipples are closed but do not over tighten them

On aux belt, no special advice apart from they are prone to sounding like tractors at start up on the two JTDs we have had.
I have put up with it a lot, but having done tensioners the next candidate was the clutch thing on the alternator ?? (or just try not to drive at slow speed.)

Always been a bit nervous on the pulleys. Some years back we were throwing and shredding belts on our old one, after a garage had been working on it. We bypassed the air con pump on that one, for years but later put it back in service after regassing - so that was not the issue on the belts shredding. That one had more power though so we were a bit wary it might be related.

Long spanners from top without wheel arch access seems to be the key, I was crazy busy at the time and local mobile mechanic sorts it.

That multi had the 155 BHP remap from Angel tuning. (Never on a rolling road etc. but wow!) Not longer after remap the clutch went but it then did another 80k and 7 years before we sold her at 160k miles. I think they stopped doing that remap not long after too when my clutch went , shame. I think the power took out the engine mountings (but salt water plays a part too) but apart from that it was brill. It just drove so much better.

We thought she was dying about 90k miles as we went through all the suspension, cam shaft sensor, belt shredding and other weak bits but she settled well. We bought a 2004 last of "female" shape to replace her but she never died !
We only got rid as we could not store her anywhere and I could not use a multipla for my work anymore about 2 ears ago. She was tatty in places but drove great.

Reminds me, I am thinking we will remap this one, now the kids are off the insurance. (It also grumbles a bit on aux belt.)

When we sold the remapped one, the guy who bought her was real sharp eyed mechanic and picked off loads of niggles and near MOT faults before doing the test drive. She had not moved for 2 months and it was February. She started up no problem. Then we went on the lanes near by and after a bit let rip. He just smiled and handed over the full wedge! The MOT site shows she is still running.

Sorry - Cylinder shape not rectangular block.
See attached photo hard to see cos it is a ...t to get to !
I could wiggle my arm in but it is a pig.

Thanks MultipleMultis for the instructions. I will read carefully.

The MOT is in 2 months. Up in the air whether I keep the Multi. I like the car, the best things about it IMO are the ride - so comfortable, the handling and the engine. Plus loads of space, good visibility, and first time starter every time (so far!). Don't like the looks.

Apart from the dodgy gear changing, I have a few jobs to do: front brakes and suspension, wiper washer, probably needs new rear spring and mount (the other side done last year £130 inc) and a new headlight. Nothing difficult, all the gear is in the back of the car waiting for better weather.

Cheers for the pic. I will have another look for the bleed nipple.

I am thinking that if after bleeding, the gear changing gets gradually worse then air is getting in, and no leaks, then my money's on the master cylinder.

Question: Are clutches are a problem on *all* diesels compared to petrol cars? Higher forces going through the transmission on a diesel...? All my previous cars have been petrol and the clutches on them lasted the life of the cars, not had a clutch problem on any of them, over 200,000 miles done on some.

I think the clever design, that gives so much interior space and comfort is the big winner. I like the shape, but I also restored a 67 beetle as a lad which is another "marmite" thing.

It handles well with wheels in corners, it's fun and tows stuff really well.
JTD and gear box set up has good reputation and has proven strong for me.

Seats out - it is a van. I wanted a landy way back when, for the 3 seats in the front but could not afford the fuel or a decent one at the time. 6 bikes in back with only one wheel off one of them, standing up. 5 kayaks on the rood bars for short slow journeys.

I drive a 2009 520D Touring as main work car, it has fancy electric seats and lots of bells and whistles but the Multipla driving seat is comfier for me. My wife and younger daughter prefer journeys in the Multipla, as they can see more and have more space and leg room. Heated seats are nice though, but lidl do a nice 12 V plug in for about £12 that is in the daughters Clio.

Current multi has done nearly 130k, I think on the first clutch. We have run it for nearly 100k.

When I had water in the fuse box recently, she was threatened with the scrap yard but then she started. We started looking and thinking about another motor but have decided to give the multi a bit of love and keep her going.
I think water was spilled in there rather than it being a leak!

We have been going through the bad spell after about 85 to 90 k, which we had with out other one too.
My recent list of work, my older kids, learned and the had past test and were abusing it, suspension is not that strong and it is 14 year old car.

Recent stuff gong back 3 years and 40 odd k miles

front suspension arms and track rods, rear wheel bearing £390 including labour
rear suspension pivot bearings on both sides and new break pipe (£112)
handbrake cable£25 and CV joint£45 (still have not covered handbrake cable from debris
aux tensioner and anti roll drop links £65
Front springs cost ???
Camshaft sensor £25 (stops ever now and again - the other one was the same)
Oct 2015 Cambelt and water pump and labour £204 ( about 5 years and 55 k since previous one when we bought her)

Local motor factors parts all have warranty with them OEM based rather than Europarts stuff, through local mechanic. I wished I had tried uprated droplinks and some other bits, I have spotted on hear recently.

Oil, filters and fuel filter about every 12 k miles

To do/ wish list : We are keeping her for next several years
a)scuffs and dings on back passenger door and front bumper etc. paintwork mop
b)want to remap it to enjoy her a bit more
c)perhaps clutch on alternator pulley to quieten it down a bit on idle
d) Must upgrade radio to bluetooth and usb etc, still original CD headset in it and the FM radio bluetooth thing is a pain now hard to keep connection
e)Plastic on dash needs tidying up where soft rubber is going gloopy, people seem to paint these up nicely and give them a lift. Talc works well to stop it going too gooey, youtube find
f) ash tray has lost its spring, I think there is a simple fix for this somewhere
g) rear electric window playing up not touched it for a few years !

"Plastic on dash needs tidying up where soft rubber is going gloopy,"

Acetone free nail-varnish remover from ASDA does the trick, along with loads of elbow grease.

wiltshire said:

"Plastic on dash needs tidying up where soft rubber is going gloopy,"

Acetone free nail-varnish remover from ASDA does the trick, along with loads of elbow grease.

Click to expand...

And lots of rags , the rags get loaded with what get lifted off. Changing rag regularly is key to not going mad doing this task.

Thanks, will try.
4 bottles in the house !!! all have acetone in ... so trip to the shops some time.

The rubberised plastic around on start button on the beemer is going as well and needs some love.

Did you paint them after degunking ? what with ?

The plastic looks fine without any painting.

You will need something to scrape the gunge when it is softened , I used old sharpened lolly sticks and bamboo skewers to get into awkward bits.

Try some meths if you have any, that would probably work too but smells worse than the girly stuff.

Acetone nail polish remover works fine , that's what I used.
I didn't repaint the plastic either was just glad it wasn't sticky

Back to the thread title...

I've splashed out on the Sealey VS820 Brake & Clutch Bleeding System (see pic).
Haven't used it for real yet but on first inspection it looks the canine's cohones. Much higher build quality than the £20 Sealey bleeder.

I have tested pumping up the pressure - it took 100 pumps over 85 seconds to get to 20 psi which is more than enough to bleed the clutch.

Advantages:
- Solid high quality build (garage quality?)
- No spare tyre needed, so only one connection needed - to car fluid reservoir
- Proper high quality push fit air connector to connect to high quality reservoir cap adapter
- Pressure gauge incorporated
- Supplied 42mm reservoir cap fits the Multipla (big bonus)
- No crap needle valve to stick on you
- 2.5L fluid reservoir

Disadvantages
- At least twice the cost of the cheaper Sealey bleeder
- It's big!
- Nothing else

My clutch is still OK after bleeding the other day, just a little sticky, so I think I'll test the new bleeder for real next week to see if I can get any improvement.

Thanks for the tips on the gloopy rubber dash trim,
Finally started cleaning up the rubber crud after getting the "Asda acetone free nail polish remover". Coming along nicely. As you say lots of rags to take the sludge away.

Did bleed on mk2 multipla recently. Pretty much the same as mk1 which is pain.

Why - It was hard to get first and reverse on occasion and pedal needed pumping. Bite point has now moved from nearly fully out to about half way and feels much better too - presumably this was the air/slop in the tubing.

Procedure seemed same but to get air box off you have to remove 4 bolts and take out silly metal plate. Slave cylinder had clip to activate bleed nipple which was different too to the mk1.

I went for the nipple on the bulkhead first but cocked up.
With pressure bleeder on reservoir and flowing the spanner fell off the 8mm nipple and fluid went everywhere ... naughty word naughty word.

Air in system ... much worse, pedal not coming back.

There was a clip thing on bottom bleed nipple on the slave cylinder.
You lift the clip, then slid the pipe off the fitting say 5 mm and then liquid comes out of bleed nipple. Can do with you hand and no tools. It confused me at first and had to read up on it. You have to make sure pipe pushed back on and clip slides easily back in its slot.
(MK 1 original slave cylinder may be same.)

Once air looks out, work the slave cylinder to make sure none is in the body.

Has same small cylinder and crap 8mm bleed nipple on bulkhead at the back of the engine. Pain to get to and I could not get a tube on the bleed nipple.

I did not jack up car at all.

I wonder if it is easier from underneath ... to get access to bulkhead and slave

It may also be better to bleed backwards pushing fluid from low point but I do not have the kit for this - oil can with flexible tube. This may mean you do not have to bleed the bulkhead nipple ???