Put the meter long bar back on it... hydraulic jack under it, make sure it's all on nice and square so it doesn't pop off , and jack up the breaker bar.
Marty.

the 240v impact wrench has a 1/2 inch square drive.

Thought I was the only one using this method but there's a vid on YouTube!!
Wear goggles...make sure the jack is running the length of the car and have the breaker bar pointing down like in the vid,when theres nice tension on the bar hit the socket a few slaps with a sledge...it will come off

Brian - your experiences are almost exactly the same as mine. I broke two or three half-decent ratchets and breaker bars trying to free mine off. The Clarke impact driver I bought is at the bottom of this post:
https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/426836-driveshaft-help-2.html?p=4087771

I bought mine on ebay, but not from this seller:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLARKE-CEW1000-1000W-ELECTRIC-1-2-IMPACT-WRENCH-230-Volts-CARRY-CASE-6480300/332212981092?_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D6b843a59a20045b092e386f6080f90ae%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D50%26sd%3D262758584616

For larger nuts (including a 36mm one) I also bought a set of Bergen impact sockets:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-5p...190021?hash=item20fb3f67c5:g:2voAAOSwFnFV~Ux1

Socket and driver combined will make you wonder why you were having such a nightmare trying to do things manually. It takes literally a few seconds with the Clarke driver to crack those driveshaft nuts off. The clutch on it is very protective, so you don't even have to brace yourself for a horrific torque reaction. It's almost like it's undoing the nut "with its fingertips". If you haven't got a compressor or don't want the hassle of setting it up just to undo one nut, these are a great investment in my eyes, especially if you're a bit of a weed like me . The only cautionary comment I'd make is don't ever, ever use the Clarke wrench to do things up with (which it can do). There is no control whatsoever over the torque it applies. I shudder to think what damage it could do.

I bought the Clarke 240v impact wrench . used it for the task it was required for , then sold it on eBay . Cheaper that hiring one.
It did work well.

Thanks Marty, Widemouthfrog and Jackwhoo,

I would like to have tried the trolley jack method - ingeneous.

I also have a compressor but don't really know how to apply it to the situation (having used it solely to spray waxoil antirust treatment and blow up the odd tyre).

I would also have been quite happy to invest in the impact driver.

However before I came across your kind suggestions I had to drop my Mazda 5 (sorry) into my local exhaust shop. They quoted me £3 more to supply and fit than I could get the parts for. I asked them for suggestions but they had none other than those I'd already tried. It came to me on my walk back. As I've bought so many cobalt drills (to drill wheelbolts out ) why not drill side of nut off, being careful not to damage the shaft thread?

After some resistance - voila! One mangled nut (glad I ordered another one already) but an undone mangled nut.

Now to follow your advice on removing lower arm.

Photos to follow.

Thanks again.

That is awesome .
I was thinking about suggesting grinding away part of hub to enable cold chisel and hammer method.
However your drilling method sounds a lot less effort ,good work that man.

I followed advice on this thread concerning bottom swivel and with the aid of a bit of 2 x 2 the bottom swivel fell off.
A little bit of juggling and the whole assembly came away leaving a lovely, and undamaged, spline and thread.
Now awaiting Shop4Parts to deliver so I can take assembly to me new 'best friend' )i.e. the people that fixed my Mazda exhaust) to press out the old and press in the new bearing.
Strangely I think I might give the garage that last (over?)tightened the wheel bolts and possibly the hub nut a wide berth.
Thanks for your help and I will learn how to post photos shortly!

Great idea to get your best new friends job of wheel bearing fitting.
On your way to see them pick up a bag of doughnuts as a gift for them, very few people bother with a little gesture like that and it goes down really well. Cementing your friendship.

Hi you Multi taskers,

I'm still trying to post photos so far unsuccessfully but I shall persevere.

Having reassembled everything I'm just awaiting new wheel bolts (£6 for 4 from Europarts) and a wheel locator pin (£4.95 from eBay which is annoyinf as I know it is not strictly necessary).

One question please. I've been following a very informative article on this forum which states the front hub torque to be 70 Nm plus 36 degrees.
This seems very low.

Can anybody confirm this or put me right?

Kind regards

Brian

See how flipping tight it is after 36 degrees and if you don't think it's enough come back on forum.
Bear in that the over tightening previously caused you all sorts of problems.
The hub nut tightness only has to secure both halves of the wheel bearing sufficiently and stop it undoing on its own.

If thread for hub nut is 22mm with distance between peaks of thread 1.5mm (the pitch) 240Nm.

If it's 24mm with pitch of 1.5mm 280 Nm

If your torque wrench only goes up to 210 Nm
Do it up to that, don't put wheel trim on,
Collect doughnuts and go to your new best friends who will have a suitable torque wrench.
Give the person who wields said torque wrench £5 , they won't expect it and will be very surprised and happy with the gesture of appreciation.

Oh and remember to vote.