Technical Fault code P0220

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Technical Fault code P0220

onclouds17

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Been having a problem with Fiat Multipla JTD 110. Engine CTRL light comes on and car goes into limp home mode. Had it analized and fault code P0220 Accelerator pedal position 2 signal improbable showed up. Where is this sensor? I assume sensor 1 would be accelerator pedal. Can anyone help.
Many thanks Richard
 
Hi I've got the same problem no my stilo jtd got new pedal unit £72 new battery £70 still getting P0220 code have used fiatecuscan have tryed to reset fault codes with no joy how did you get on with yours?
 
Been having a problem with Fiat Multipla JTD 110. Engine CTRL light comes on and car goes into limp home mode. Had it analized and fault code P0220 Accelerator pedal position 2 signal improbable showed up. Where is this sensor? I assume sensor 1 would be accelerator pedal. Can anyone help.
Many thanks Richard

- read this thread

My old Multi 110 had an identical problem but there were three not one codes :

- P0220 - Pedal Position Sensor
- P1320 - Timing Revolution Synch
- P0404 - EGR

I cleared the codes from the ECU, and carried the code reader in the car with me. The first time the car went wrong I stopped, read the code and it was 0220.

- code 0220, the rheostat [ in the box above the throttle pedal ] sends a series of ohms values to the ECU which in turns transmits it to the engine.

- but the Throttle Position Sensor values were well within spec so spending £80 on a TPP was not going to solve my problem.

- when looking at the TPP I noticed a piece of wiring from the TPP going straight left to the passenger side bulkhead to an 8 pin connector.

Now this is the bit that may help others. Apparently 9/10 times this connector is making a bad contact and most garages just solder the wires together. Saves you £100. I pulled the plug apart cleaned the pins, stuck it back together and have never had a problem since.

INFO

The wiring I mention goes behind the dash between the gear stick etc to the 8 pin, and from the 8 pin to the ECU, and is accessible even to a 70 year old coffin knocking crip like myself so don't be afraid to have a look / clean and make good the connection even if it appears to be ok.

Doing what I suggest without then clearing the codes may / may not work, if the codes are left the car may assume it has a problem when in fact it does not. I can only tell you the way I did it, and in my case I cleared the codes after cleaning the connection.

Mention should be made of ' shaun1 ' who was unselfishly helpful to me.

I had access to 9 time served diesel fitters brains most of them with more than 30 years each experience [ I admit never seen a Fiat in their life ] and all their top-shelf equipment and the fault turned out to be :woot: a manky connector.
 
Just to say: Thanks to all contributors to this thread. I've just followed it to the same conclusion and fixed in ten seconds what Fiat and several time-served mechanics couldn't. Information is power.
 
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Just to say: Thanks to all contributors to this thread. I've just followed it to the same conclusion and fixed in ten seconds what Fiat and several time-served mechanics couldn't. Information is power.

- you are more than welcome my friend :D
 
Hi there.I am recently facing another issue on my Fiat Stilo 1.9 JTD 115 kw.The problem is after driving the car for 10 min or so the accelaration starts playing.It is like runing out of fuel.With multiecu scan i could find 2 errors.One was p0220-accelerator pedal sensor 2 and the other one is p0704-clutch signal.
I have replaced the accelaration pedal and cleared the error with ecuscan but it came back.The error as well the behavior.During the "chocking" the rpm is beetween 1800-2400 rpm roughly.i can hear a loud hissing during this time as well as some metal scrubbing like disc brakes.If i put my feet down the car goes but it leaves a cloud of black smoke behind.
The average consumption is really high.From 55 mpg as it used to be its now somewhere around 30 mpg.Its does show in the dashbord.In dasbord is still saying 55 mpg.But before with a full tank i was driving around 750 miles.Now i can only do 500.
Air,fuel,oil are new (2000 miles at most)
Egr valve new
Map sensor new
maf sensor new
overboost valve new
.Any help/advice?
Thanks in advance
 
Hi there.I am recently facing another issue on my Fiat Stilo 1.9 JTD 115 kw.The problem is after driving the car for 10 min or so the accelaration starts playing.It is like runing out of fuel.With multiecu scan i could find 2 errors.One was p0220-accelerator pedal sensor 2 and the other one is p0704-clutch signal.
I have replaced the accelaration pedal and cleared the error with ecuscan but it came back.The error as well the behavior.During the "chocking" the rpm is beetween 1800-2400 rpm roughly.i can hear a loud hissing during this time as well as some metal scrubbing like disc brakes.If i put my feet down the car goes but it leaves a cloud of black smoke behind.
The average consumption is really high.From 55 mpg as it used to be its now somewhere around 30 mpg.Its does show in the dashbord.In dasbord is still saying 55 mpg.But before with a full tank i was driving around 750 miles.Now i can only do 500.
Air,fuel,oil are new (2000 miles at most)
Egr valve new
Map sensor new
maf sensor new
overboost valve new
.Any help/advice?
Thanks in advance


hi, there are a few threads on here about cruddy switch / wiring connections on the accelerator,
is yours a normal clutched 5 speed manual..??
 
Mine is stilo.I have seen after I posted that this is for Tempra.My car is left hand drive.after I read this thread I went and check my wiring but it is different.there is no plug,or I can't see it.my wiring goes to the left and meets with a thick bunch of cables
 
Update on how things are going.The error p0220 is not coming back.but the car is doing the same.I have unplugged the egr.The car goes quite well with no smoke and the "running out of fuel" thing is gone,but I get an error for airflow meter=value too high.I plugged the egr back and unplugged air flow plug out.no black smoke,no "running out of fuel" thing,no error but no power.So everything is going as it should when apart,but put all togheter I get loads of black smoke and choking sensation.any advice further?
 
Still sounds like the EGR. On my old Berlingo there were two pipes going to the EGR. If you got them the wrong way round they caused similar symptoms. One of them could also be blocked or more likely leaking.
 
Still sounds like the EGR.


I bought blanking plates.I am waiting to arrive and see if this will change something.I will update as soon as i find something.
 
Still sounds like the EGR. On my old Berlingo there were two pipes going to the EGR. If you got them the wrong way round they caused similar symptoms. One of them could also be blocked or more likely leaking.

A short update on how things are going.Today my blank plate arrived and put it up and went for 100 miles drive as i had to travel.First thing was to delete de egr error as i removed the plug and put it back.Second thing was the engine is more shaky and loud.But as in the good side is that the pick up from low revs is better,and the black smoke is barely noticeable.
As when i reached the motorway put my foot down and i must admit i was quite impressed how much good can a metal plate do.
It goes well when i put my foot down for 5 second and after that i can feel a lag for 5 sec and then goes again.
It is more noticeable on hills.I can hear that the engine is more forced than before going up the hill.
Any more sugestions?Thanks in advance
 
Forte cleaner ? Turbo/egr/injectors/ and engine flush really is brilliant its for trade so I get it off a mate or u can get it on ebay, my last multi had bad back pressure, oil coming out of the oil filler cap it sorted that out


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Yes in the tank fill up and let it work its magic, I use it at least once a year


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Thanks for that.i bought one bottle from eBay but I have seen there are several different types for different things.its for egr,turbo,injectors.I will put it in use as soon as arrives.thanks
 
You have to remember though your engine inside will be chocked up its still best to remove the inlet manifold and physical clean it out


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