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Published by simondenison 17-08-2011 | ||||||
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![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings I checked my trailing arm bearings last week and there seemed to be about 1mm play. Today, my Multipla passed the MoT, but with advisories for "slight play in pin/bush" for both rear radius arms, so this guide should be very useful for me. Regarding step 18, the tightening torques for the rear suspension are below (note daNm, so multiply by 10 for Nm). I assume that the "Rear Wishbone" torque of 150 Nm is for the bolt through this bearing. The list describes an "M16 x 1.5" bolt, and an M16 bolt requires a 24mm socket, so this seems right. I am guessing that the "x 1.5" refers to the thread pitch ? (There seem to be a variety of different names for describing the 'trailing arm', e.g. 'rear wishbone', 'swing arm', 'track control arm', 'rear radius arm', ...). Also, I am guessing that the M12 (i.e. 19mm socket) "Rear Damper" torque of 88 Nm is the one to use for re-attaching the shock absorber bottom bolt.
__________________ FiatForumer. n. A person who has pictures of their Fiat in their wallet, where their money used to be. Fiat. n. Something you swear by, or swear at. Panda TwinAir Lounge, Nov 2012 . . . & . . . BMW 218i SE AT Mar 2017 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Trader Rating: 0 ![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings Tried to source bearing kit from my local parts dealer and they are saying that I must take the complete trailing arm. (Did this job on a Brava I had a few years ago.) Complete arm is very expensive and more work than simply replacing the bearing. Does anyone know where can I source a bearing kit?
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 11 Thanks: 4 Trader Rating: 0 ![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings It's a case of ringing round your local motor factors. There are usually some on e-bay too. Search for Multipla bush kit. Which part of the country are you in ? Regards, Simon
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![]() | How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings Nice write-up Simon. I really need to do mine soon, will take plenty of pictures.
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![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings Got my bearing kits today. Just shy of £40 delivered, from Shop-4-Parts. Currently on offer at £12.95 per side. http://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=st...D=897&sku=2837 Ordered them on 31 March. I'm hoping to get time to do them within the next week or so, I'll take pics as I go. One small caution; If, like me, you like to get all the parts out as soon as they come through the door, be aware that the Taper Roller Bearing's rollers are not secured in their cage, so they will all spill out if you separate the inner and outer races (which you should do to grease them thoroughly of course). Also, being rollers, they will make a break for some inaccessible part of your kitchen/garage floor (please don't do it outside!).
__________________ Why? Why not? Last edited by BikeDoc; 03-04-2012 at 13:14. |
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![]() | #6 |
![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings If I ever meet a car designer, I won't get tired of punching him, not for a couple of hours at least. It would have cost a few pence to put a grease nipple in the rear arm, so you could lube it regularly, and prevent the whole thing seizing up. That or seal it properly in the first place. Made a start on my left trailing arm tonight, got the nut off no problem, but the bolt is seized in so tight it was as much as I could do to turn it a few degrees, let alone get it out. I'm going to have to drop the subframe now, all for the want of a poxy grease nipple ![]()
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![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings Had another go at my left arm last night. I dropped the anti-roll bar to get enough room to work, and the two left clamping bolt heads just sheared off. I tried shifting the pivot bolt with an Enerpac Hydraulic Ram, using it to push on the bolt, using the R/H arm's bolt to push against (with suitable extension rods). I don't know what rating the one I used was, but their smallest model is rated at 8 tons, the bolt didn't even move a bit. I'm not sure if I was getting the full loading on it though, as a friend was doing the pumping. We were concerned something would bend/slip/break, as the body of the Ram was slightly too large to allow everything to be dead in-line. I'm going to weld a 3/4 UNC bolt to the pivot bolt head, and try to pull it out instead. The Ram we used is designed more for pulling anyway, all it's tooling and accessories are designed for that. If it still won't budge, the next plan is to drill off the head, and cut and drill the 'tail' to drop the arm out. A quick question for those that have done this job. Did your bearing inner races fit easily onto the sleeve? Mine won't go on by hand, did you have to press or drift them into place?
__________________ Why? Why not? Last edited by BikeDoc; 04-05-2012 at 09:27. Reason: Question. |
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Trader Rating: 0 ![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings I'd try grinding the bolt head off from the outside, then when it's clean, hot meta,l squirt with lots of penetrating oil and leave as long as poss. Then the crude bit - drive it out with a drift and sledge hammer from the outside. The shock load will break it free much better than the hydraulic push or pull if you've tapped it. My Citroen CX had the same problem and I tried for many hours as you have done all to no avail. Stan Platts the Citroen guru told me the above tip and it worked a treat. Let me know if it works for you if you've not done it already ! Regards Simon
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![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings I've already welded the 3/4UNC bolt onto the head of the pivot bolt, and machined a couple of steel tubes to bear against the side of the subframe. Drilling the head off, and cutting and drilling the end of the bolt are my next option. Can you answer my other question about the bearing inner races fitting the sleeve?
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Trader Rating: 0 ![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings It's a while since I did mine, but I seem to remember they fitted pretty easily, I don't mean pushed in by hand, but using a pivot bolt and old nut with plenty of washers, carefull alignment and stopping several times to add new washers, you can gradually pull them into the arm. In fact, now I remember, getting them fully seated did take quite a lot of force - the arm wouldn't fit back into the frame and I had to drop it down and try again. Be very careful if you're going along the jacking method, I suspect the sub-frame may bend before the bolt moves. It sounds like the bearings have collapsed and chewed well into the pivot bolt in your case. Was there lots of play in the arm ? Regards Simon
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Trader Rating: 0 ![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings Silly me, the bearings are on the spacer tube rather than the pivot bolt itself on the fiat aren't they ? So it's just rust between the bolt and the tube. Regards, Simon
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![]() | How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings That's right. I've made up the steel tubes to avoid the bending subframe scenario (I hope). They just fit over the nuts (two welded together) that will join the 3/4 bolt to the puller rod, and are approx the same diameter as the bearing tube of the arm. Like this... ![]() Orange and green part is the puller ram, blue puller rod joins to blue bolt (with yellow nut) which is welded to the red (seized) pivot bolt, mustard-green tube bears against the ram body and subframe (black). I'll take pics when I do it.
__________________ Why? Why not? Last edited by BikeDoc; 07-05-2012 at 02:05. Reason: Correction... |
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Trader Rating: 0 ![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings Looks like it should work, if the weld holds ! Still think grinding the bolt head of and driving through from the outside is quicker and easier though, but you can still do that if the ram doesn't do the bizz. Let us know how you get on. Regards Simon
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![]() | #14 |
![]() | Re: How to Replace the Trailing Arm Bearings The fact that repeated blows with a club hammer originally, and the lack of movement when pushing with the hydraulic ram, leads me to think that hammering won't be enough. I would be able to use a larger hammer though, but then I'd be restricted on the size of drift I could use. I'll find out tonight if it works...
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