Cinquecento/Seicento Fully rebuilding uno turbo rear calipers (should be the same for GT) Pt.1

please note: This is a guide, I take no responsibility for any inaccurate information held within this guide, Use common sense and caution. brakes are the most important components on a car. if YOU fail to build them correctly it is YOU'RE problem.

Only continue to the next pages if your competent with breaking systems and trust your own work, otherwise get the work done by a professional.

First be sure to get a seal kit.
Got mine from http://www.biggred.co.uk
they dont have the UT kit on their site but have it on ebay. they told me to buy it from there.

kit number BR203006

Remove external components.
these are:
Bleed nipple

Return spring:
First unhook the end from the plate

Then undo the 10mm bolt (the spring may or may not be stuck to this bolt depending on how rusty the caliper is)

Give the boot a tug and it will come out. dont worry about damaging it if you have a seal kit.

unscrew the piston (anticlockwise) I used a pair of circlip pliers as i dont own a caliper tool.

once removed pick the seal out

Next I decided to strip the piston.
remove the circlip (I used a very small screwdriver that fitted in the circlip hole, actually easier then farting about with circlip pliers)

once the clip is out, carefully pull the threaded part (best not do it my way as any damage to the internal thread would be the end of the caliper)

Break down of the piston. the large internally threaded part has a seal on the end which you replace with a new one

I used valve cutting paste to reseat this part into the taper seat in the piston is it was a bit pitted. also check the hole that can be found in the ridge near the end of the piston is not blocked (both of mine where)

Now the fun bit.
the threaded rod it held behind two circlips and the bottom of the caliper.
the first circlip has spring pressure and VERY limited access.

Again I used a small screwdriver to remove the clip (couldnt actually get circlip pliers long and thin enough to get it out.

I used a deep socket (12mm) and a clamp to take some tension off the circlip


once removed you will be able to remove a cup, A spring and a washer (washer is usually stuck to the bottom so be sure to remove it)

you now have to remove another circlip... this time you will have much more room.

once out you will be able to pull the threaded rod out. along with it will be a thick circle of metal.

before been able to remove the leaver, you will need to pull out a "slug" of steel that you will see at the bottom of the caliper (on the hole you just removed the threaded rod from) it will be held in with thick grease.

once out you will be able to twist and pull the leaver out of the caliper body.


There is a seal on the end of the threaded rod, and a dust seal pressed into the caliper body where the leaver is. both should be removed and replaced as new ones are included in a seal kit.
Dust seal:

threaded rod seal



Rest coming soon with more photos