Hi all,

I've checked around and I can't see anything that relates exactly to my problem.

I have epilepsy and had a seizure last October and so had to stop driving, rather than sell my car I decided to hold onto it for a year but of course it isn't really getting used now. It has lasted since October by me starting the engine from time to time and my dad driving it when he comes to visit.

Just now I tried to start it again but I get nothing but a weird clicking sound which I guess is the fuel pump? Sounds like it's coming from just behind the left-ish side of the dash. On the LCD screen is says "Warning: Low Fuel" and there are a couple of warning lights that come on.

The tank is more than 3/4 full and I think the battery is still good as all the electronics come on and I can get the air con going. What I think it might be is that my car is now parked on a slope whereas before it was on flat ground and so all the fuel has run to the back.

What's the best thing to do? Should I just call out the recovery guy?

is the clicking sound when you turn the key?


If so although your battery has enough power to turn on the lights its not got enough power to start the car.... if its when you turn the key the click is the Starter motor relay or could be the motor solonoid itself its against the fire wall in the engine bay

as such you will also get various random warning lights such as low fuel, engine overheating, power steering failure... As the various sensors work by voltage and the cars computer using that voltage to determine condition's of various parts

first thing i would do is get the battery charged up and try again it could be the battery is dead (how old is the car) my battery lasted about 4 years before it stopped holding its charge (and the car was used almost daily) You can get the battery tested at most garages but be ware of ones who will sell you one for selling sake


Modern cars if left to stand for a while drain the battery due to the amount of electronics running even when turned off ( central locking system is always looking for the signal from your key to unlock the doors ect)

As Andy says- it only takes a minute amount of power to work a few lights (10-20amps), but the starter needs 100's of amps to overcome the inertia of cranking the engine over.

Your battery is technically flat, charge it or attempt a jump-start, but bear in mind it won't recharge fully from the alternator alone.

Thanks guys, I guess it probably seems pretty obvious but i wasn't expecting it to fail so suddenly after doing so well for the past 10 months. I might try and get a mate to jump it then get a new battery when it goes in for a service/mot next month.

Thanks again.

you'll be better trying to charge the battery there might not be anything wrong with the battery (it can be tested once charged)

what area are you in there might be a member local if you haven't got a battery charger


Try to avoid jump starting unless its an emergency as there is a small but none the less of a risk of power surge/ spike damaging parts of the cars electronics (which is why there are now surge protected jump leads on the market..)

Thanks Andy, so perhaps I'm better off investing in a charger than getting impatient and getting a jump that could potentially damage something. I had thought of doing this anyway and had just been putting it off so now seems like a good a time as any.

Are there any good chargers to try and get or ones to avoid?

Ideally you want a newer type of charger the so called intelligent ones these are almost Idiot proof (not implying anything by saying that btw )


They will not work should the battery be dangerously faulty,

they will tell you if you connect the wrong way round and not work,
Automatically cut out/ pulse charge when charged to save overcharging and "boiling the battery"

and they charge in a way to maximize the battery capacity

will then start charging when it needs it so in theory you can plug it in and keep your car topped up whilst its in storage till you get you licence back..... (still will not harm to start the car once in a while tho)


this is the one i would go for personally its a good price and nice and compact

Ctek CTE-XS800 Car Battery Charger 4 Stage 0.8Amp 12 Volt: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike




there are many more to choose from at varying prices

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/7404881/Trail/searchtext>BATTERY+CHARGER.htm


RING RSC4 Smart Charger 4 Amp: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike



unplug the charger before disconnecting the clamps and charge in a well ventilated area and do not smoke ect near a charging battery (explosion risk from Hydrogen gas released when charging not a big risk but a risk none the less )

OK, so I got my charger today, stupid question maybe but what is the locking situation when the battery is removed?

Ok, so I realised I could just lock the doors the old fashioned way so I've now charged my battery and the engine starts again. \o/

Problem I now have is that the airbag failure warning hasn't gone away, anyone know why? I'll bet getting the car in for a service in a couple of weeks so I don't really mind but it would be interesting to know why if anyone has any idea.

its "logged" a fault explain to the garage what has happened and it should be a simple task of resetting the air bag computer with the plug in computer

Legend, thanks a lot.

I have had batterys on and off my car having had a dying battery (check the guide for battery replacement) and never had a problem... But computers and electronics are temperamental things


There could be a actual fault with the air bag and restraint system but the only way to be sure is to have it plugged in and checked sadly

Ctek CTE-XS800 Car Battery Charger 4 Stage 0.8Amp 12 Volt: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike



I can recomend this charger, i had it on the battery of my mg all last winter and after 4 months of storage and one of the coldest winters in 20 years it turned over first time, it is a very good "smart" trickle charger.