Technical Clutch slow to return when cold

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Technical Clutch slow to return when cold

Gman88667733

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I've noticed this since getting the clutch changed for some reason (although I expect that is a coincidence)
When the van is cold, the clutch is slow to return, not majorly, but if you release your foot from the pedal quickly, it takes a second to spring up slowly.
It eventually goes away when the van has warmed up.
My first guess would be that the seals on the master cylinder are going?
Being unfamiliar with this, all I have to go by is that there is a misting of oily residue around the cylinder that attaches to the clutch pedal, no dripping on the mat in the cab, but there is definitely residue around the cylinder.
Does this seem likely? I believe the brake fluid reservoir is the same for the clutch fluid on this? (Again, may be wrong) the level has not dropped.

Here is a link to an image of the oil residue - https://thumbsnap.com/LeY4vt2C

(The van is a 2006 2.0 JTD)

Thanks
 
When a few years ago I noticed a single drop of unidentified fluid on the clutch master cylinder of my 2006 2.8JTD, I wiped cylinder clean. When the drop reappeared, I prepared to change the clutch master cylinder, as I had previously experienced sudden failure or clutch hydraulics on a different vehicle. I did not want to repeat the experience.

Given the state of your clutch master cylinder, I recommend a similar course of action.

If you are considering DIY replacement, I could give a few tips on shortening the procedure detailed in eLearn.

The same reservoir is used for brakes and clutch, but there are internal dams or weirs to prevent complete loss of hydraulic fluid, should either system suffer a major leak.
 
When a few years ago I noticed a single drop of unidentified fluid on the clutch master cylinder of my 2006 2.8JTD, I wiped cylinder clean. When the drop reappeared, I prepared to change the clutch master cylinder, as I had previously experienced sudden failure or clutch hydraulics on a different vehicle. I did not want to repeat the experience.

Given the state of your clutch master cylinder, I recommend a similar course of action.

If you are considering DIY replacement, I could give a few tips on shortening the procedure detailed in eLearn.

The same reservoir is used for brakes and clutch, but there are internal dams or weirs to prevent complete loss of hydraulic fluid, should either system suffer a major leak.

Is it a DIYable job? I'd be willing to give it a crack, just not sure how difficult it is.
 
Gman.

In answer to your question, I did it DIY a few years ago, and am no longer young.

You should be able to see most of what is involved, from this link. http://4cardata.info/elearn/244/2/244000001/244000003/244000004/244001012

My principal concern was the realignment of the pin that attaches the cylinder to the clutch pedal. In the event, that operation was quite easy.

You will need to detach / replace air hoses in order to access the slave cylinder to drain and bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Clic pliers and a brake bleeding kit are almost essential, for these tasks.

The eLearn procedure involves draining, refilling, and bleeding the brakes. I avoided this with a considerable saving of time and effort.
If you decide to proceed, I will detail the method, but please excuse my not taking the time right now.

PS. With my method the only access needed under the vehicle was for placing a container to catch hydraulic fluid from the slave cylinder, close to the LHS front wheel.
 
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