Gman88667733
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So any holes need to be sorted asap really?
Technical Rust - prevention
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Technical Rust - prevention
Don't worry ask friendly garage that fitted thread insert to your panda if they will weld plate on for you
Don't worry ask your friendly garage to weld it for you
There will be rust all the way up under that factory seal. Keep scraping. A screwdriver will possibly go through... Now you will find how important it is to get rust inhibiting wax into cavities and voids as that is where the real rust happens. Very often surface rust you see can be coming through from inside.
As said, best to find out now while conditions are dry and hot for solvents etc, in the winter this would take days to deal with without forced heating.
If a heavy looking box is popping free from another clean it up all up best you can and look drive round local garages, you might find a diamond who will weld for you, might not be as much as you fear. You need to expose the problems first, dealing with them is often the quicker part of the job.
Edit: listen to Jackwhoo!
As said, best to find out now while conditions are dry and hot for solvents etc, in the winter this would take days to deal with without forced heating.
If a heavy looking box is popping free from another clean it up all up best you can and look drive round local garages, you might find a diamond who will weld for you, might not be as much as you fear. You need to expose the problems first, dealing with them is often the quicker part of the job.
Edit: listen to Jackwhoo!
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Sorry about repeat posts don't know why that happened.
Any hole you have made is better to get welded now before you apply paint.
But it's up to you.
If unsure ask your friendly garage who can get eyes on rather than photos which can be hard to judge.
I haven't seen anything scary in photo's
Looks like a great van
Stay calm , good van
Any hole you have made is better to get welded now before you apply paint.
But it's up to you.
If unsure ask your friendly garage who can get eyes on rather than photos which can be hard to judge.
I haven't seen anything scary in photo's
Looks like a great van
Stay calm , good van
Now you have got that far , expose all the badly rusted areas and get garages opinion if it needs welding now before painting/ injecting cavity wax.
If you inject cavity wax to an area that requires welding later the wax can cause all sorts of problems, fire is one, that will push cost of welding right up.
If you inject cavity wax to an area that requires welding later the wax can cause all sorts of problems, fire is one, that will push cost of welding right up.
Gman88667733
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Been to the garage as I had to pop by anyway.
He said he does a lot of those bits on these vans, he said it is quite common and will do it when he does the cambelt and it won't cost much. Ideal!
He said he does a lot of those bits on these vans, he said it is quite common and will do it when he does the cambelt and it won't cost much. Ideal!
You better have taken snacks with you??????
Great news , your garage sounds really lovely and good to boot.
He was probably pleased you hadn't waxed it already!!
Gman88667733
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I'll drop some in when I drop the van off on Wednesday!
It is handy having a garage that know how to do just about everything. Puts my mind at ease
Honestly they will really appreciate that gesture from you and they sure deserve it.
Can I say you have done really well dealing with this another thing wayyyy out of your comfy zone ?
Jack
Gman88667733
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Thanks for that!
Definitely all a learning curve. Gotta start somewhere I suppose.
Whatever the problem there is an expensive product for it. 
But you don't need it, or the hard horrible work that goes with it - breathing in all the muck and bits dropping in your eyes under the van.
Just brush the thick loose muck off and brush some cheap thick gear oil on every year or so. Thats all you need to do. Easy
Years ago I was MOT testing cars in the days when they rusted much faster than they do now. But they also tended to leak oil - I often found rust beneath underseal and paint, but never beneath oil because the protective film self-heals.
But I don't recommend used engine oil because it stinks, and leaves black stains where it inevitably drips. Gear oil is thicker and sticks to the metal better. Clean oil washes out easily with modern detergents. Its the muck in used engine oil that stains your clothes and drive.
I bought a new car 30 years ago, and its still i regular use now
But you don't need it, or the hard horrible work that goes with it - breathing in all the muck and bits dropping in your eyes under the van.
Just brush the thick loose muck off and brush some cheap thick gear oil on every year or so. Thats all you need to do. Easy
Years ago I was MOT testing cars in the days when they rusted much faster than they do now. But they also tended to leak oil - I often found rust beneath underseal and paint, but never beneath oil because the protective film self-heals.
But I don't recommend used engine oil because it stinks, and leaves black stains where it inevitably drips. Gear oil is thicker and sticks to the metal better. Clean oil washes out easily with modern detergents. Its the muck in used engine oil that stains your clothes and drive.
I bought a new car 30 years ago, and its still i regular use now
quite like this approach .Whatever the problem there is an expensive product for it.
But you don't need it, or the hard horrible work that goes with it - breathing in all the muck and bits dropping in your eyes under the van.
Just brush the thick loose muck off and brush some cheap thick gear oil on every year or so. Thats all you need to do. Easy
Years ago I was MOT testing cars in the days when they rusted much faster than they do now. But they also tended to leak oil - I often found rust beneath underseal and paint, but never beneath oil because the protective film self-heals.
But I don't recommend used engine oil because it stinks, and leaves black stains where it inevitably drips. Gear oil is thicker and sticks to the metal better. Clean oil washes out easily with modern detergents. Its the muck in used engine oil that stains your clothes and drive.
I bought a new car 30 years ago, and its still i regular use now
Though for such a good van think paint first Then wax inside cavities then wax or grease or oil after couple of months over he top.
I have wondered about chain saw chain oil as it strings and is very sticky but never got round to trying it on chassis.
SPECIAL NOTE the majority of gear oils STINK like cat pee , very unpleasant indeed
.If going gear oil route check odour of oil before using
Problem is that rust can grow beneath paint even if the paint has oil over it.
Maybe my nose but I haven't found a gear oil that stinks as bad as used engine oil.
I just use the cheap (mineral) 80/90 gear oil - you only need half a litre or so - its not worth re using mucky engine oil.
Gear oil tends to stick better - it has to do.
Oil works like a skier being towed over water -as long as he is sliding the water supports him. As soon as he stops he sinks. Engine oil works very well on fast spinning shafts because there is very fast sliding movement.
But between gear teeth there is very little sliding movement and enormous pressure. So gear oil needs to stick to the metal much better to prevent metal to metal contact.
Maybe my nose but I haven't found a gear oil that stinks as bad as used engine oil.
I just use the cheap (mineral) 80/90 gear oil - you only need half a litre or so - its not worth re using mucky engine oil.
Gear oil tends to stick better - it has to do.
Oil works like a skier being towed over water -as long as he is sliding the water supports him. As soon as he stops he sinks. Engine oil works very well on fast spinning shafts because there is very fast sliding movement.
But between gear teeth there is very little sliding movement and enormous pressure. So gear oil needs to stick to the metal much better to prevent metal to metal contact.
Omg you are immune from gear oil smell
I understand what you are saying but as long as the oil / grease /what ever, covers all the paint , especially corners and edges it will be a great job.
Plus as you said check and top up once per year.
Which car did you buy 30 years ago?
Love that it's still going strong.
Jack
There comes a time when rust has formed in nukes and crannies and painting would just slow things down, and as said preparation a real pain. Personally I would use ACF-50. Brush and spray this all over rusted areas and more. This stuff will stop rust in its tracks, although it will not spray like a mist, you will still be able to squirt into difficult places. Easiest of all the things you can do in my book.
I recently did my Coupe underneath when I got the beastie back from restoration. Covering all the new metal will protect it from rust from the start.
I recently did my Coupe underneath when I got the beastie back from restoration. Covering all the new metal will protect it from rust from the start.
You will probably enjoy thisThere comes a time when rust has formed in nukes and crannies and painting would just slow things down, and as said preparation a real pain. Personally I would use ACF-50. Brush and spray this all over rusted areas and more. This stuff will stop rust in its tracks, although it will not spray like a mist, you will still be able to squirt into difficult places. Easiest of all the things you can do in my book.
I recently did my Coupe underneath when I got the beastie back from restoration. Covering all the new metal will protect it from rust from the start.
https://youtu.be/R5LSxpoqcWo
And the full written article
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesoci...nts/tested-acf-50-corrosion-protectant-review
I think those products are designed so the items they are applied to still look " pretty"
So oil/wax/grease underneath a van possibly more appropriate
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Interesting test.
But its not the same conditions as the underside of a vehicle.
He started off with clean metal. instead of the usual combination of paint and rust.
He didn't test paints or underseals, and did not show the effect of flying stone chippings from Britains cheap and nasty way of bodging up the road surface.
The big advantage of the gear oil is it binds to rusty metal (as long as its dry), and self heals when hit by the chippings.
It won't last for ever, so it needs a bit more brushing on when you get under the van to service it. And don't forget to do the sump pan - since engines stopped leaking oil the sump pans have started to rust through from underneath. And any other bits like steel water pipes that were protected by oil from the engine in the days when they all leaked oil.
I would rather do it little and often - spend 20 minutes easy work brushing oil on it once a year whilst doing an inspection, rather than weeks of horrible preparation and painting work in the mistaken belief that the rust can be cured permanently in one go. Which is what I did with my first car, when I was naive enough to believe the claims on the packaging for over priced rust treatments.
But its not the same conditions as the underside of a vehicle.
He started off with clean metal. instead of the usual combination of paint and rust.
He didn't test paints or underseals, and did not show the effect of flying stone chippings from Britains cheap and nasty way of bodging up the road surface.
The big advantage of the gear oil is it binds to rusty metal (as long as its dry), and self heals when hit by the chippings.
It won't last for ever, so it needs a bit more brushing on when you get under the van to service it. And don't forget to do the sump pan - since engines stopped leaking oil the sump pans have started to rust through from underneath. And any other bits like steel water pipes that were protected by oil from the engine in the days when they all leaked oil.
I would rather do it little and often - spend 20 minutes easy work brushing oil on it once a year whilst doing an inspection, rather than weeks of horrible preparation and painting work in the mistaken belief that the rust can be cured permanently in one go. Which is what I did with my first car, when I was naive enough to believe the claims on the packaging for over priced rust treatments.
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Crossingkeeper
Established member
Reg's tip reminded me that many years ago my local garage offered an 'underbody oil spray', a win-win idea; the garage got rid of their waste oil and the customer got to keep their car a little longer (this was back in the early 70's when underbody stone protection and cavity wax injection were still twinkles in designer's eyes)
I did have this done at the time and, coincidentally or not, that car is still with me
I did have this done at the time and, coincidentally or not, that car is still with me
