Good morning! I have found what might be the solution to an immobiliser problem on my year 2000 Ducato- based motorhome.
Can’t see any other posts on this subject since 2012.
A long shot- but does anyone know of a person/ firm in the North if England able to do this work? Thanks.
Here’s what forum member AARK said in 2012:”Have done a lot of early 2.8s. If your system is the same, it can be bypassed, but requires some mechanical ability and dexterity. The Keycode Unit by the steering column talks to the fuel solenoid on the injection pump. This solenoid sticks out of the pump towards to starter motor, ie mounted horizontal, east/west. Remove any pipes, hosing, etc. in the way, eg intercooler hoses. Remove the 3 pin plug, the solenoid is secured with 2 tamper proof torx or hex screws (sorry been a few years since I did one). Once these are removed the electronic section of the solenoid can be removed, leaving a standard fuel solenoid. The 3 pin loom plug has wires from ignition, earth and KCU. Located the ign wire (live with key on), connect this to the fuel solenoid. The KCU box under the dash can be disconnected. Note: vehicle security has now been compromised, the van can now be started without a coded key”

Stevebill,

Please note that, 2000 was the changeover year between the 2.8 idTD, to which your quoted procedure applies, and the later 2.8JTD, which cannot be modified in this way.

Are you sure that you have the 2.8idTD, which is quite possible with a motorhome?

Bloody hell! I haven’t a clue.Worse, I have no idea how to fInd out- my motorhome was first registered in Germany and UK Fiat dealers don’t see it on their databases.
Actual manufacture date is 1999, it wasn’t converted at the factory until 2000.
Maybe I should take as much detail as I can - VIN for example- and ask Fiat.
What a bummer- I’m ok mechanically but the cross between computerised components and electronics cannot lead to a common sense solution.

Steve,

I think that you have answered the question. Manufacturing year 1999.

The 2.8 idTD has the injection pump horizontal across the front of the engine with 4 injector pipes running from it to mechanical injectors. Engine type is 8140.43.

The computer controlled 2.8 JTD has a "common rail" running across the front of the cylinder head, with 4 electrically operated injectors. With this engine the 4 injector leads should be visible at the vehicle LHS front of the cylinder head. They could be mistaken for small plastic pipes. Engine type is 8140.43s

If still not sure search for images on internet.

Odd, I always thought my 1999 2.8 intercooled turbo diesel was mechanical fuel injection. I checked when I bought it, and was assured it was. But there you go, thanks for the advice & info.

Had the key light come up on my 1999 fiat ducato motor home. Would turn over but not start. Key light stayed on when tried all keys including the red master key. Checked the inertia sensor by pressing the top. But still no joy. Long story short. Concluded the immobilizer was the issue. And while checking the three wire connection to the electronics to the fuel solenoid valve i could hear the solenoid clicking as i wiggled the wire there. I found by switching the ignition on and then tapping the plastic cover with a spanner, it would engage the solenoid and the key light would go off. And then i could turn the key further and it would start and stay running.This worked for a while. But became less and less effective. Until one day it just would not start. Leaving me stranded. Called the AA. Waited a while and decided to give it one more go. It luckily started , so i canceled the AA and drove home to, say to myself that's it. I am removing the immobiliser from the off the fuel solenoid. So found this forum and muli tooled the sheer bolts off to expose the solenoid and find the ignition wire out of the three wires. which in my case was the purple/brown.But on taking off layer by layer first the plasic cap then the circuit board . I then found the correct height to cut the bolts off at. using a couple of 32mm bi metal multi tool blades and tool. Took quite some time. But there might be an easier way. It was to late for me because i had already cut through the wire that went from the underside of the PCB to the solenoid. But it might be possible to lift the circuit board cover off clean away the rubbery silicone in the area required and solder a ignition feed to the top of the solder pin on the board. or cut the corner of the circuit board to expose the wire that will be very short. This will save cutting all the bolts off. Like i had to do as i only knew of this once i had removed everything. New here, so still trying to work out how to upload images i have taken as to where on the board to solder or cut away.

Hi Mudplugger,

I am sorry to hear of your immobiliser based problem. The dreaded padlock stikes again!


To attach photos, click the paper clip symbol, and observe the file size limits.

Twin choke said:

Hi
I'm newbie
Your answer about removing the immobiliser is just what I was looking for ,as my ducato has the same problem .it is a 1999 2.8 idtd and I want to remove the key code imobilliser ,after looking at my pump I have the two tamper proof bolts which I've drilled out but still can't get the housing off which I hope is the black plastic part with the three cables going to it.it seems to wobble but does not come off .
Any ideas would be great
Many thanks for all the advice which you have posted already

Click to expand...

Twin choke said:

Hi
I'm newbie
Your answer about removing the immobiliser is just what I was looking for ,as my ducato has the same problem .it is a 1999 2.8 idtd and I want to remove the key code imobilliser ,after looking at my pump I have the two tamper proof bolts which I've drilled out but still can't get the housing off which I hope is the black plastic part with the three cables going to it.it seems to wobble but does not come off .
Any ideas would be great
Many thanks for all the advice which you have posted already

Click to expand...

I have had to do this on my 1997 1.9td fiat ducato motorhome. I was experiencing intermittent problems with key showing and engine not starting. Sometimes it would start after putting the key in and out a few times other times we were left stuck for longer periods of time.

Eventually enough was enough and I too decided to remove the built in bosch immobiliser from the fuel pump. I too drilled the 2 tamper proof screws out and had problems still removing it. Eventually I used a cold chisel and big hammer and brute force and smashed it off. Its not plastic it black painted hardened steel.

Real nightmare to get off. Anyway after removing it it was clear why I was having problems. Looked like fuel leak at some point had started to corrode the electrical side of this component. Also the one wire to the fuel cut off was barely connected. I removed it all along with the yellow box under the steering wheel column. I then bought a cobra twin circuit immobiliser and fitted it to to both my fuel system and electrical system. Hid all the wires screwed the unit down in secret place with tamper proof screws. Very pleased with work and end result. If you need any further help please ask.
Hope this helps
Paul

The picture of the top of the immobiliser with the three wires can be snapped off after removing the u shape clip cover. The two holes are where the two sheer bolts are located . Red arrow points to the solder point for the wire going to the fuel solenoid. to connect ignition wire. blue arrow is where the cable going to the fuel solenoid . I chopped it off not knowing this was the wire for until i had removed the Bosh immobilizer unit. it may be possible to break the circuit board in the corner pointed to by the red arrow. and with a pair of long nose pliers pull any slack on the wire out far enough to join it to an ignition feed. Saving the need to dremil off the shear bolts. The picture with my grubby thumb in shows another angle of the immobilizer unit. If you decide to remove the metal shroud completely to access the fuel solenoid .It is important to keep the multi tool blade as close the flat plat as possible to cut off the 2mm raised ridge on the metal plate around the sheer bolts. As the sheer bolts have a small counter sunk edge under the nut. So slicing the raised ridge off will insure the full head of the sheer bolt will be cut off.

OK. I have read many tips and tricks to get started on my motorhome Fiat Dethleffs 2002 model with 1.9 TD when the engine is warm. Then the car had to stand for 1 - 1 1/2 hours, it started again. No trick worked for me. I then started listening to what was really going on when I did not get started. When there was a loud click from the right side of the car, I saw that the warning light, shaped like a key, did not go out. My wife sat behind the wheel and at a signal from me she turned the key and I could feel movement in a relay at the same time as there was a clear click. It was from Control Unit, glow plug BOSCH 0 281 003 005. The serial number is what is in my car. I first bought a cheap non-original relay. It was rubbish. Control unit is mounted on what we here in Norway call the torpedo wall, others call it the firewall against the passenger compartment. It sits behind the battery, high up and it is cramped there. With a little patience at the same time as I did not look at how many cuts I got in my right arm, I got it out. Fits new control unit. Puts me in the car and starts. YES IT STARTS. It also starts when it gets hot. It is a heavy job to get the battery out and it is cramped where the control unit is located but it was worth the money and tired. The control unit costs about 100 euros. Do not buy the cheap because it does not work. Be careful with the number on the relay so you should take out the old one so you are sure of the number. It is not possible to connect incorrectly because there are different sizes of two fasteners and the connector has grooves that allow it to be mounted only one way. No tricks with the antenna on the ECU, no lashing with copper wire, no cheating tricks. The workshop said they had to measure and test and no one would even agree with me when I asked to change the control unit to EU control. Just so it is clear, the car was checked and approved without any defects and it is 20 years old. Just a new control unit was the solution for me. So Good luck.

Aaarrrgggg!!!! Then the problem returned. Cannot start while engine is hot. Then, out with the battery, disassemble everything behind the battery. There is a fuse box, a relay also a device I don't know what it is. Still, I unplugged it so I got the device out. Discovered that it is a spring loaded contact that had stuck. When I shook it, there was the click that many people hear on these cars. This unit sits on the same bolts in the firewall. There is 3 - 4 cm between the units so it is tight here. I got the spring loaded connector loose so it could move. Fits everything back into the car and tries starting and stopping many, many times. The engine gets hot and I stop and start again and again. Could it be that I have found the error??? Do not know. I have taken a picture of the unit and am looking for a new one on the internet so far with no luck. Now the car is parked for the winter because here in Norway I have to have other tires for winter driving and it's expensive for a car that I can't trust yet.

Hi ThorRoger,

1. You said in your first post that your vehicle is a 2002 model Fiat based Dehleffs with 1.9 TD engine. The 1.9 TD engine, type 230A3000, was only manufactured until 1999.

2. The unit that you are describing with a spring loaded contact may be the inerta swith, which is intended to cut the supply to the fuel tank mounted fuel lift pump, in the event of a collision. On my 2006 x244 Ducato the inertia switch is mounted on the firewall (bulkhead) near the battery. I do not see this unit as being the cause of the problems that you describe.

3. You have not made it clear whether the engine cranks and does not fire, or fails to crank. If the latter then the click that you here is most probably the starter solenoid engaging the starter pinion, but failing to complete its travel, and energise the starter motor.

Many years ago I had problems with a 2.5TD Talbot Express that failed to re-start when the engine was hot. On that engine the starter was mounted on the front of the engine, close to the turbo. After some testing, I reasoned that with the increase of temperature, the resistance of the starter solenoid increased to the point that the solenoid failed to operate. In my case the cure was to add a relay to the solenoid circuit. I was surprised at how easy it was to make this modification.

Hi

The number 1314621080 is the reference for a Fiat Ducato/Citroen Relay etc Inertia Switch, which is wired in series with the low pressure fuel pump.

From Wikipedia:

A small loose weight (called a proof mass) is trapped within a spring-loaded cage. A shock in any direction will cause movement of the mass relative to the cage. If sufficiently shocked, the cage will spring open which actuates an associated switch. The switch is reset by pressing the cage closed through the flexible top cover, retrapping the mass.

Communicator said:

Hi ThorRoger,

1. You said in your first post that your vehicle is a 2002 model Fiat based Dehleffs with 1.9 TD engine. The 1.9 TD engine, type 230A3000, was only manufactured until 1999.

2. The unit that you are describing with a spring loaded contact may be the inerta swith, which is intended to cut the supply to the fuel tank mounted fuel lift pump, in the event of a collision. On my 2006 x244 Ducato the inertia switch is mounted on the firewall (bulkhead) near the battery. I do not see this unit as being the cause of the problems that you describe.

3. You have not made it clear whether the engine cranks and does not fire, or fails to crank. If the latter then the click that you here is most probably the starter solenoid engaging the starter pinion, but failing to complete its travel, and energise the starter motor.

Many years ago I had problems with a 2.5TD Talbot Express that failed to re-start when the engine was hot. On that engine the starter was mounted on the front of the engine, close to the turbo. After some testing, I reasoned that with the increase of temperature, the resistance of the starter solenoid increased to the point that the solenoid failed to operate. In my case the cure was to add a relay to the solenoid circuit. I was surprised at how easy it was to make this modification.

Click to expand...

Hi.
First I have to apologize for my poor English. I use google translator.

1. This was interesting. In the car's Norwegian documents it says that the car is a 2002 model. BUT, when I look on the internet, I have not found a 2002 model that is similar to my car. I now tried to look up the 1999 model and then pictures of a similar car came up. So what has happened to my car is that it was imported new, but was not sold until 2002 and then the wrong year is listed on the model. So thank you for this information.

2. Anthony489 has also given me the same answer about this device. I have twice experienced something that I have not brought before. The car has been parked for a couple of days and when I try to start it, nothing happens. Turn the key and no light on the dashboard, no reaction from the engine. Opening the hood without having any idea what to do the first time, I put my fingers behind the battery and just push a little on the wires that I could feel. Then everything falls into place and the car starts. What's up?

3. The starter rotates but as long as the immobilizer light is on it does not start. All of the lights and lamps work, but as long as the car is warm it won't start. I'm not very good with electrics on cars and have never worked on a diesel engine. Gasoline cars are something else entirely. So I have to check a lot about mounting a relay. I am amazed at how little Norwegian car workshops know about this type of car, even though they exist in large numbers. When I describe my problem, they usually look at me with a blank, stupid look. Then I walk. So I have to solve this myself. I also can't find all the fuses and relays for the car. The descriptions for the 1999 model and later refer to a fuse box that should be on the right side of the engine compartment when I stand in front of the car. There is nothing there. I found the fuses in the glove compartment. There is a small fuse box behind the battery and there are two fuses to the left of the battery on the inner wing. I have checked under the entire dashboard and behind the glove box but can't find a fuse box. An illustration shows box 1 and box 2. Box 1 is not on my car. With the information I have received here, I think I am approaching a solution. My biggest problem is that I don't have the car where I live. I rent a space in a mobile home which is 1 1/2 hours away. But it costs us approx. 2,800 euros a year. It's expensive when we can't use the car.

Hi Thor Roger,

Firstly your English is perfectly understandable.

1. I think that your vehicle is an x230 model. To confirm please see registration documents, or the VIN plate on the vehicle the VIN will have the form xxx230nnnnnn. As we now believe that the engine is a 1.9TD, it will have a mechanical injection pump with 4 pipes leading directly to the injectors. As the engine is indirect injection it will have glowplugs for cold starting. The control relay for the glowplugs is often mounted near the battery.

2. If I move to the photo that you attached to your last post, may I suggest that it is not the right one for your vehicle. The fuseboxes 1 & 2 were I think first used on the x244 model, which was introduced in 2002, but I could be wrong.
I think that perhaps the best available diagrams for your vehicle are in a German workshop manual, which is available in the downloads section here. When I looked recently, I could not find diagrams in the English translation.

3. You mention pushing on wires behind the battery to make the starter motor work. This suggests that you have a loose connection in this area. This needs to be investigated and repaired. For safety the battery negative must be disconnected before using any metal tools in this area.

4. With the 1.9TD engine that I think you have, the immobilizer will be fitted to the injection pump. This type of immobiliser can be removed, with the stop soleniod then being connected directly to the ignition switch.

5. The fuses that are mounted on the inner wing may be part of the motorhome conversion. It would be reasonable to find two fuses of about 20A rating, and perhaps two relays here. One for the refridgerator, and the other being the habitation battery split charge relay. The relays could be elsewhere in the vehicle.

6. To help in understanding your problem, can you add to the following "3. The starter rotates but as long as the immobilizer light is on it does not start. All of the lights and lamps work, but as long as the car is warm it won't start."
Yes if the immobiser has failed to recognise your key, and the light is lit the engine will crank but not start. When the engine is warm does the engine not crank, or is it the immobiliser that is preventing the engine from starting?

Communicator said:

Hi Thor Roger,

Firstly your English is perfectly understandable.

1. I think that your vehicle is an x230 model. To confirm please see registration documents, or the VIN plate on the vehicle the VIN will have the form xxx230nnnnnn. As we now believe that the engine is a 1.9TD, it will have a mechanical injection pump with 4 pipes leading directly to the injectors. As the engine is indirect injection it will have glowplugs for cold starting. The control relay for the glowplugs is often mounted near the battery.

2. If I move to the photo that you attached to your last post, may I suggest that it is not the right one for your vehicle. The fuseboxes 1 & 2 were I think first used on the x244 model, which was introduced in 2002, but I could be wrong.
I think that perhaps the best available diagrams for your vehicle are in a German workshop manual, which is available in the downloads section here. When I looked recently, I could not find diagrams in the English translation.

3. You mention pushing on wires behind the battery to make the starter motor work. This suggests that you have a loose connection in this area. This needs to be investigated and repaired. For safety the battery negative must be disconnected before using any metal tools in this area.

4. With the 1.9TD engine that I think you have, the immobilizer will be fitted to the injection pump. This type of immobiliser can be removed, with the stop soleniod then being connected directly to the ignition switch.

5. The fuses that are mounted on the inner wing may be part of the motorhome conversion. It would be reasonable to find two fuses of about 20A rating, and perhaps two relays here. One for the refridgerator, and the other being the habitation battery split charge relay. The relays could be elsewhere in the vehicle.

6. To help in understanding your problem, can you add to the following "3. The starter rotates but as long as the immobilizer light is on it does not start. All of the lights and lamps work, but as long as the car is warm it won't start."
Yes if the immobiser has failed to recognise your key, and the light is lit the engine will crank but not start. When the engine is warm does the engine not crank, or is it the immobiliser that is preventing the engine from starting?

Click to expand...

First, I must thank you for getting involved in my problems with the motorhome.
1. Checked the VIN number and it is ZFA23000006127293 and it should be a 1.9 TD engine.
2. Have downloaded the manual and need to brush up on my German skills from my school days. Fortunately, I have an old German dictionary so I have reading material at the weekend
3. There is such a tight and small space where the battery sits that I have to take it out to even see what is behind the battery. I have a 95 Ah battery that weighs 23 kg.
4. Yes, I have read on several that it is possible to bypass the immobilizer, but then I have no insurance if the car is stolen. I don't think it will happen, but you never know.
6. When the engine is hot, it is the immobilizer that prevents the car from starting. The engine revs but does not start.

If the weather holds, I think there will be a trip next week to see if I can find relays and fuses. Here it is +16 Celsius and the weather is only getting colder. I have to stand outside with the car when I have to do something under the hood even though I pay for space inside.

ThorRoger said:

First, I must thank you for getting involved in my problems with the motorhome.
1. Checked the VIN number and it is ZFA23000006127293 and it should be a 1.9 TD engine.
2. Have downloaded the manual and need to brush up on my German skills from my school days. Fortunately, I have an old German dictionary so I have reading material at the weekend
3. There is such a tight and small space where the battery sits that I have to take it out to even see what is behind the battery. I have a 95 Ah battery that weighs 23 kg.
4. Yes, I have read on several that it is possible to bypass the immobilizer, but then I have no insurance if the car is stolen. I don't think it will happen, but you never know.
6. When the engine is hot, it is the immobilizer that prevents the car from starting. The engine revs but does not start.

If the weather holds, I think there will be a trip next week to see if I can find relays and fuses. Here it is +16 Celsius and the weather is only getting colder. I have to stand outside with the car when I have to do something under the hood even though I pay for space inside.

Click to expand...

Hi.
I will try to comment in order, on your comments raised above.

1. Your base vehicle is a Fiat Ducato x230 1.9TD. This information will be usefull when searching for spare parts.

2. Your German is probably much better than mine, which is limited to a few technical terms, and some colours.

3. The starter battery in my x244 is in a similar location. When removing the battery, I have used a piece of wooden board as a ramp, to slide the battery up and down.

4. I understand your reluctance, but I think that you may have to seriously consider removing the immobiliser. Perhaps you could do as others have done and fit an after market system. If I have understood correctly, the immobiliser is preventing the engine from starting sometimes when the engine is cold, and always when the engine is hot. This suggests that the basic cause of the fault is temperature sensitive, possibly a micro crack in an IC or other component. This type of fault can sometimes be located on electronic boards by using a freezer aerosol, but you do not have access to do this. Also the necessary replacement parts are probably not available.

You mention looking for the location of the relays. The picture attached to post #1 on, this recent thread. should help. However faulty relays are not a common problem.
Problems are more likely to be due to loose or corroded connections. Corrosion is not likely inside the cab.
I think that you have already found all of the fuses related to the base vehicle.
It is possible that the immobiliser is receiving less than the correct voltage due to poor fuse connections, but then why should the immobiliser fail to accept the key when the engine is warm, and the battery has been fully charged by the alternator?

Communicator said:

Hi.
I will try to comment in order, on your comments raised above.

1. Your base vehicle is a Fiat Ducato x230 1.9TD. This information will be usefull when searching for spare parts.

2. Your German is probably much better than mine, which is limited to a few technical terms, and some colours.

3. The starter battery in my x244 is in a similar location. When removing the battery, I have used a piece of wooden board as a ramp, to slide the battery up and down.

4. I understand your reluctance, but I think that you may have to seriously consider removing the immobiliser. Perhaps you could do as others have done and fit an after market system. If I have understood correctly, the immobiliser is preventing the engine from starting sometimes when the engine is cold, and always when the engine is hot. This suggests that the basic cause of the fault is temperature sensitive, possibly a micro crack in an IC or other component. This type of fault can sometimes be located on electronic boards by using a freezer aerosol, but you do not have access to do this. Also the necessary replacement parts are probably not available.

You mention looking for the location of the relays. The picture attached to post #1 on, this recent thread. should help. However faulty relays are not a common problem.
Problems are more likely to be due to loose or corroded connections. Corrosion is not likely inside the cab.
I think that you have already found all of the fuses related to the base vehicle.
It is possible that the immobiliser is receiving less than the correct voltage due to poor fuse connections, but then why should the immobiliser fail to accept the key when the engine is warm, and the battery has been fully charged by the alternator?

Click to expand...

Hello again.
Now my old brain is starting to work a little better (I'm 65 years old). When you mention bad contact in the electrical, I remember that I reacted to the one fuse box that I saw behind the battery being slightly open. The fasteners that close the box are broken so there is only one of four fasteners. This box is behind the battery. In order from the left there is the fuse box, control relay for the glow plugs and the inerta switch. So I have to take a good look at all the cables sitting there. If I am lucky enough that there is simply a bad contact on one or more of the contacts, I will be very happy. The fact that contact becomes worse when it is hot in the engine compartment could be the problem. 40 years ago I came across something similar when a plus cable was broken across inside the insulation. When it got hot, the insulation stretched and the cable lost contact. When it cooled, the insulation shrunk again and the cable made contact. If there are several bad contacts then it will be too bad so that the immobilizer will not work. Read someone who measured 9.5 volts to the immobilizer and then it didn't work. Maybe I'll grasp at all the straws I can to find the fault, because the problem is very strange that the system doesn't work when it gets hot. As you write about your Talbot which had the same problem. The battery is new in 2021 and is fully charged so the alternator works. Now I've got several options that I have to check. I will also check if I can find the relays where the picture in the previous thread shows them to be. Hopefully I can take a trip and check the car next week. As I have mentioned, I have to drive 1 1/2 hours to the place where the car is parked. Thank you very much and have a great weekend.

Now I have been and tried out one of your ideas. Cool down what I think are reasons why the car won't start hot. I used cold water. Let the car get really warm, turned off the engine and tried to start again. The engine revs, the immobilizer light comes on and it won't start. Pour cold water only on the diesel pump. Trying to start. The immobilizer light goes out and the engine starts. Very hot in the engine compartment but the diesel pump had become cold from the water. So the error lies there. I haven't found the solenoid and I couldn't see the whole diesel pump as the hoses for the cooling system are in the way.

Just to show what I have to keep up with, I have three photos.
First picture I hope shows an exit for a hose?? In picture no. two, I try to show the diesel pump, but the entire right side is under two hoses for the cooling system. The last photo is of wires that are red and behind the wall there is a fuse box that I should replace. It is a crack in the upper left corner. This is probably all I have done now before winter, so now the car has to sit until spring. Thank you again for all the help you have given me. If I had it at a workshop in Norway, the money would have gained wings and nothing would have happened.
.

ThorRoger said:

Now I have been and tried out one of your ideas. Cool down what I think are reasons why the car won't start hot. I used cold water. Let the car get really warm, turned off the engine and tried to start again. The engine revs, the immobilizer light comes on and it won't start. Pour cold water only on the diesel pump. Trying to start. The immobilizer light goes out and the engine starts. Very hot in the engine compartment but the diesel pump had become cold from the water. So the error lies there. I haven't found the solenoid and I couldn't see the whole diesel pump as the hoses for the cooling system are in the way.

Just to show what I have to keep up with, I have three photos.
First picture I hope shows an exit for a hose?? In picture no. two, I try to show the diesel pump, but the entire right side is under two hoses for the cooling system. The last photo is of wires that are red and behind the wall there is a fuse box that I should replace. It is a crack in the upper left corner. This is probably all I have done now before winter, so now the car has to sit until spring. Thank you again for all the help you have given me. If I had it at a workshop in Norway, the money would have gained wings and nothing would have happened.
.View attachment 412700View attachment 412701View attachment 412699

Click to expand...

Is it the diesel pump that I have cooled with water? Checked some pumps on the internet and am starting to have doubts. But in any case, it is this unit that is possibly the cause of my starting problem when the engine is warm. Because as soon as it was cooled down, the engine started even though it was very hot in the engine compartment.