Save up to 15% with Adrian Flux insurance!

Technical Ducato 2.8JTD 2001

Currently reading:
Technical Ducato 2.8JTD 2001

V

venture

New member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2
Points
1
Location
BEVERLEY
Warning light usually comes on when going up hill and engine is under load light goes off when foot taken off accelerator coming on again as soon as foot back on. When light on loss of power occurs.
Remedies tried include:
New accelerator pedal fitted.
ECU removed tested and refitted with no fault found.
Wiring checked.
WD40 sprayed arround engine bay.
A faulty fuel guage was resolved by the the fitting of a new fuel pump and sender.
The vehicle [a motorhome] has been back to the local Fiat main dealer several times and has been diagnostically tested. On one occasion an intermittant fault on manifold pressure sensor was found the connections cleaned codes deleted and retested all OK. Unfortunatelly not so and fault is becoming progressively worse. I think the problem is with the sensors and wonder if anyone else has experienced similar problems and how they were resolved.
 
The problem has been fixed.A local garage that deals with problem vehicles found high resistance in the wiring between the throttle pedal sensor and the fcu(computer).The wires were replaced and the fault has disappeared. I know that I mentioned that the wiring had been checked in my initial report but the check was only checking the connections for security.Many garages tend to go for component changes first to try and resolve problems but this can prove very expensive as I found out.Many mechanics told me that wiring is the last thing that they check.In my case it was.
 
Hi
Is this problem a simple unplugging and plugging in new wiring section or is it a part of the loom and therefore a more professional job.
 
My problem in some ways seems the opposite - the fault only occurs with light throttle and low revs.

Under load, the fault clears.

However, the pointer to the throttle sensor is very useful and I will pass it on to the garage.

My vehicle is an '02 plate Hymer camper with the 2.8 JTD engine.
 
I had similar problem on 2002 ducato.I had pedal changed as giving pedal potentiometer no2 faulty report this did not cure it.The garage found a high resistance connector about 1m from pedal in loom(not the connecter by the pedal)They cut it out and soldered the wires and its been ok since (2 years)Hope this saves the trouble and expense i had.
 
I have repaired this fault on a few Ducatos now, by fitting AMP Weatherpack connectors. Any good quality connectors or splicing will do. The problem is finding the fault in the first place. I've tested the TPS loom with a good quality multimeter, and inspected the pins of the o/e connectors under magnifying glass, and can't fault them, but they still play up in situ, even after cleaning and tightening.
Also had a similar plug/skt fault on a 2006 18 2.8 JTD AUTO. This was the prnd plug (10w), loom end at the transmission. A new prnd switch had been fitted elsewhere, fault still occurred, trans would randomly go into limp home mode. Dude spent $3500 on it at various workshops, before I checked it and found this fault. Fitted new sealed connector, cured fault.
If you have any electrical faults on Ducs that can't be easily fixed, try replacing connector plugs and sockets. may solve a lot of hassles. LH airbag plugs is another example, done a dozen or more.
 
I have just had this problem and this thread proved very useful. I also have a 2001 2.8JTD, Hymer B584. The symptom was the red engine light coming on, engine going to limp mode for a few seconds, and this got worse over a period of weeks until it became unusable, with the limp mode events happening four or five times per hour. The local garage proved useless, telling me 'these old vans don't have ODB codes', but still charged me an hours labour for poking around the turbo. Mine has a three pin ODB connector near the air filter, and on Ebay I bought an adapter cable to 16 pin ODB, and a USB to ODB cable

(USB OBD2 OBD-II VAG KKL Cable for 409.1 Audi VW Skoda SEAT (DRIVERS INCLUDED, ATTENTION: this item is only fit for Vehicles produced before 2004) )

and used the FiatECUscan program that came with the cable. If your cable has no software bundled, the newer MultiECUscan is free to download. It took a while to configure the PC to work, and I am a computer professional, so beware, but once up and running, it was great. The fault showed a problem with Accelerator Potentiometer number 2 (I cleared it, went out for a drive, and it reappeared after the next limp mode episode) and I could graph the potentiometer responses. I measured the conductivity from the pedal connector to the ECU. The six potentiometer wires are all in a row on the ECU connector and the colours on the wires are the same as at the pedal connector. Some of the wires were reading 40 ohms, way too high, they should read about one ohm or less. (I got a wiring diagram from the technical resources on this site). The diagram showed another connector, D004, somewhere between the pedal and the ECU. I had to remove the lower dashboard on the passenger side, only 5 screws, and there it was. I took it apart, sprayed some contact cleaner and brushed the contacts, and that was it. The ECU to pedal resistances were all now less than one volt, and the problem was gone. If it happens again I will remove the connector and solder the wires together.

All sounds simple now, but it took me a solid week.

I hope this may prove useful to someone.
 
Ok I know this is not Fiat but have a read anyway.

I had a (now dead) renault grand espace that had a big flat spot at around 1500rpm, changed all sorts of sensors and nothing made any difference. One day I noticed that the temp gauge wasn't working so I thought I'd give that a go. Changed the sensor, no difference. Disconnected the ecu and checked the wire from the sensor to the ecu, it was broken. Spliced in a new piece of wire. Gauge working and flat spot gone.

So it looks like the car wasn't fueling correctly as it wasn't getting a temperature reading.
 
Hi Keven Adam,
A big thankyou as your solution of cleaning the plug and sockets behind the passengers dash board fixed my Fiat Ducato 2.8JTD motorhome. I've done 2 test runs now and the engine didn't miss a beat.
Cheers
Martin




Kevin Adam said:
I have just had this problem and this thread proved very useful. I also have a 2001 2.8JTD, Hymer B584. The symptom was the red engine light coming on, engine going to limp mode for a few seconds, and this got worse over a period of weeks until it became unusable, with the limp mode events happening four or five times per hour. The local garage proved useless, telling me 'these old vans don't have ODB codes', but still charged me an hours labour for poking around the turbo. Mine has a three pin ODB connector near the air filter, and on Ebay I bought an adapter cable to 16 pin ODB, and a USB to ODB cable

(USB OBD2 OBD-II VAG KKL Cable for 409.1 Audi VW Skoda SEAT (DRIVERS INCLUDED, ATTENTION: this item is only fit for Vehicles produced before 2004) )

and used the FiatECUscan program that came with the cable. If your cable has no software bundled, the newer MultiECUscan is free to download. It took a while to configure the PC to work, and I am a computer professional, so beware, but once up and running, it was great. The fault showed a problem with Accelerator Potentiometer number 2 (I cleared it, went out for a drive, and it reappeared after the next limp mode episode) and I could graph the potentiometer responses. I measured the conductivity from the pedal connector to the ECU. The six potentiometer wires are all in a row on the ECU connector and the colours on the wires are the same as at the pedal connector. Some of the wires were reading 40 ohms, way too high, they should read about one ohm or less. (I got a wiring diagram from the technical resources on this site). The diagram showed another connector, D004, somewhere between the pedal and the ECU. I had to remove the lower dashboard on the passenger side, only 5 screws, and there it was. I took it apart, sprayed some contact cleaner and brushed the contacts, and that was it. The ECU to pedal resistances were all now less than one volt, and the problem was gone. If it happens again I will remove the connector and solder the wires together.

All sounds simple now, but it took me a solid week.

I hope this may prove useful to someone.
Click to expand...
 
Kevin Adam and Babybel, do you happen to have any picture or drawing showing the exact location of the connector that needs cleaning? I also have a hesitation around 2.200 rpm, annoying, that I suspect might be caused by the same situation that you've experienced and fixed. It's a 2002 Ducato 2.8 JTD, would be nice to know which exact connector I'm looking for. Thanks a lot in advance.

Greetings from Sweden
 
Yes please people show us a picture of connectors?
I have slightly older 2.5 engine that shared a lot with the following 2.8 engine.
 
Washburn said:
Kevin Adam and Babybel, do you happen to have any picture or drawing showing the exact location of the connector that needs cleaning? I also have a hesitation around 2.200 rpm, annoying, that I suspect might be caused by the same situation that you've experienced and fixed. It's a 2002 Ducato 2.8 JTD, would be nice to know which exact connector I'm looking for. Thanks a lot in advance.

Greetings from Sweden
Click to expand...

Hi. :)

Use Search on here ;)

D004 finds several ducato threads..
All with links to active contributors.


Good luck.. and let us know what you find.

Charlie
 
Today I removed the passenger lower dashboard panel (5 screws) and cleaned a 6-wire connector which was right there. I could not find any posts showing the location in my x230 model when searching the forum, but I figured it probably was this one you meant. Anyhow after cleaning with electrical contact spray, air gun to dry it and refitting the hesitation was still there. I then cut all 6 wires on both ends of the connector and soldered them together. Amazingly after soldering them the hesitation is almost completely gone. In some cases, I can still feel it a little bit around 2.200 rpm at light pedal action, but 90% improvement. Can there be anymore connector along the way?

This is the one I cut and replaced with soldered joints (except the 2 thick ones these one I used screw joint as you can see)

Attached images.
 

Attachments

  • 2019-05-30 11.38.23.jpg
    2019-05-30 11.38.23.jpg
    193.1 KB · Views: 541
  • 2019-05-30 11.38.48.jpg
    2019-05-30 11.38.48.jpg
    172.1 KB · Views: 468
Busigkille said:
Nice pictures! Are the connector in the same place on X244 Ducatos?
Click to expand...

The quick answer seems to be NO!


The connector location may be correct for an x230, but for an x244 eLearn shows only connector D004A as an intermediate between the accelerator potentiometers, and the ECU.

Connector D004A is located in the bottom of the engine bay fusebox, and is referred to as the engine front coupling. Access to D004A is gained by uncliping the fuse and relay panel.

Disconnect the battery negative before starting work.

There is a black 6 way connector behind the LH dashboard on the the x244, but the outer 4 wires are associated with cruise control, and the middle two wires (one thick red) with aircon. This is connector D018B and the cruise control wires also connect to the ECU via D004A.
 
Communicator said:
The quick answer seems to be NO!


The connector location may be correct for an x230, but for an x244 eLearn shows only connector D004A as an intermediate between the accelerator potentiometers, and the ECU.

Connector D004A is located in the bottom of the engine bay fusebox, and is referred to as the engine front coupling. Access to D004A is gained by uncliping the fuse and relay panel.

Disconnect the battery negative before starting work.

There is a black 6 way connector behind the LH dashboard on the the x244, but the outer 4 wires are associated with cruise control, and the middle two wires (one thick red) with aircon. This is connector D018B and the cruise control wires also connect to the ECU via D004A.
Click to expand...

Thank you Communicator! Here is the remedy:

X244 Ducato 2.3JTD -02
Code is P0220 - Accelerator pedal sensor 2

Drives normal but Check Engine lights is on, problem started after engine swap to -06 engine, this was done during previous owner. But mechanic could not locate problem so they decided to blank the check engine light. :bang:

Photo 3.5.2020, 13.06.52.jpg
Photo 3.5.2020, 13.57.29.jpg
D004A is located under fuse box in engine room

PINS C02 and C01 was bent and lying at the bottom inside the connector. Straightening these out was the remedy.


Some wiring diagrams for knowledge:

Huomautus 2020-05-03 132807.png
Huomautus 2020-05-03 140857.png
 
Kevin Adam said:
I have just had this problem and this thread proved very useful. I also have a 2001 2.8JTD, Hymer B584. The symptom was the red engine light coming on, engine going to limp mode for a few seconds, and this got worse over a period of weeks until it became unusable, with the limp mode events happening four or five times per hour. The local garage proved useless, telling me 'these old vans don't have ODB codes', but still charged me an hours labour for poking around the turbo. Mine has a three pin ODB connector near the air filter, and on Ebay I bought an adapter cable to 16 pin ODB, and a USB to ODB cable

(USB OBD2 OBD-II VAG KKL Cable for 409.1 Audi VW Skoda SEAT (DRIVERS INCLUDED, ATTENTION: this item is only fit for Vehicles produced before 2004) )

and used the FiatECUscan program that came with the cable. If your cable has no software bundled, the newer MultiECUscan is free to download. It took a while to configure the PC to work, and I am a computer professional, so beware, but once up and running, it was great. The fault showed a problem with Accelerator Potentiometer number 2 (I cleared it, went out for a drive, and it reappeared after the next limp mode episode) and I could graph the potentiometer responses. I measured the conductivity from the pedal connector to the ECU. The six potentiometer wires are all in a row on the ECU connector and the colours on the wires are the same as at the pedal connector. Some of the wires were reading 40 ohms, way too high, they should read about one ohm or less. (I got a wiring diagram from the technical resources on this site). The diagram showed another connector, D004, somewhere between the pedal and the ECU. I had to remove the lower dashboard on the passenger side, only 5 screws, and there it was. I took it apart, sprayed some contact cleaner and brushed the contacts, and that was it. The ECU to pedal resistances were all now less than one volt, and the problem was gone. If it happens again I will remove the connector and solder the wires together.

All sounds simple now, but it took me a solid week.

I hope this may prove useful to someone.
Click to expand...
you have still this wiring diagram. Can you send it to me?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
  • Question
Technical 2001 Ducato Red warning light
Replies
6
Views
1K
Communicator
C
I
Technical 2005 Ducato 2.8JTD oil light issue
Replies
14
Views
1K
bugsymike
B
D
  • Question
Technical Ducato Warning Lights
Replies
2
Views
1K
Derosa
D
Martuky
General Fiat Ducato JTD 230 - Change Light Bulbs
Replies
2
Views
158
Martuky
Martuky
G
Technical Ducato 2005 2.8JTD 5th gear ratio
Replies
1
Views
332
Communicator
C
Back
Top