the mpi head ive got, was past the markers when i got it, and its had more off since:devil:
General Head Gasket Help - 1108 MPI
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General Head Gasket Help - 1108 MPI
fair play 
If you go past the marks (the little indents in the head) you can alwas use a thicker HG. Many of the purveyors of ported heads take it straight to the max anyway. (Not recommended for turbos!)
gp3000000
New member
Thanks for all the help so far
Well, I managed to get that bolt and the rest off in the end.
Using a BRITOOL breaker bar I found in our garage and by chance, I also found a BRITOOL 13mm socket, so the two together got the bolt off.
Once I took the head off it was evident that the HG had failed from water jacket to cyl. 1, and also I think water was getting through cyl.4 as well, as all the carbon on the piston had been loosened. However as you can see in the picture there is some carbon missing on 2 & 3 too...
Head gasket
Block
(more pictures coming)
The head's gone away for a skim and will be back tomorrow morning, but in the meantime:-
I also had this rough idling problem ever since I had the car, I started a thread here months ago but never solved it (despite it going away and coming back several times), so I decided this would be a good time to clean the idle control valve. Trouble is, what I've taken out doesn't seem to be the idle valve, I think it's the MAP sensor? I've found it covered it liquid (looks like oil, I put some on my finger to see the colour) just wondered (before I put it back) is this normal?
on my finger:
So, anyone have any idea where the idle valve is on the throttle body?
Well, I managed to get that bolt and the rest off in the end.
Using a BRITOOL breaker bar I found in our garage and by chance, I also found a BRITOOL 13mm socket, so the two together got the bolt off.
Once I took the head off it was evident that the HG had failed from water jacket to cyl. 1, and also I think water was getting through cyl.4 as well, as all the carbon on the piston had been loosened. However as you can see in the picture there is some carbon missing on 2 & 3 too...
Head gasket
Block
(more pictures coming)
The head's gone away for a skim and will be back tomorrow morning, but in the meantime:-
I also had this rough idling problem ever since I had the car, I started a thread here months ago but never solved it (despite it going away and coming back several times), so I decided this would be a good time to clean the idle control valve. Trouble is, what I've taken out doesn't seem to be the idle valve, I think it's the MAP sensor? I've found it covered it liquid (looks like oil, I put some on my finger to see the colour) just wondered (before I put it back) is this normal?
on my finger:
So, anyone have any idea where the idle valve is on the throttle body?
Well, it's not abnormal. Get it off with carb cleaner and pop it back.
As a head gasket on the way out can cause poor idling, I'd leave further investigation until the engine is back together.
As a head gasket on the way out can cause poor idling, I'd leave further investigation until the engine is back together.
gp3000000
New member
Is carb cleaner the same as white spirit? As we have no carb cleaner but lots of white spirit!
Should I be using white spirit to clean the block mating surface? Also, does the remainder of the carbon deposits on the pistons need to come off, or can I just leave it there?
Should I be using white spirit to clean the block mating surface? Also, does the remainder of the carbon deposits on the pistons need to come off, or can I just leave it there?
carb cleaner is the best.and wont eat seals. it is more like methanol. just get some from the pound shop.
degrease the head and block surface.
dont worry about the pistons. remove any loose bits if you can be arsed, but it dont really matter.
what you could do it get some diesel. and pour a good bit down each bore today and leave it there. it will dissolve the carbon and unstick any rings
degrease the head and block surface.
dont worry about the pistons. remove any loose bits if you can be arsed, but it dont really matter.
what you could do it get some diesel. and pour a good bit down each bore today and leave it there. it will dissolve the carbon and unstick any rings
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You can leave the carbon there -- it'll only rebuild, anyway.
For the mating face, Brooky uses an oilstone, I tend to use a scraper and a good solvent (spirit wipe or acetone).
Carb cleaner is good for small things as it comes in an aerosol -- generally, it (or petrol) are better than white spirit, but much more explosive!
For the mating face, Brooky uses an oilstone, I tend to use a scraper and a good solvent (spirit wipe or acetone).
Carb cleaner is good for small things as it comes in an aerosol -- generally, it (or petrol) are better than white spirit, but much more explosive!
gp3000000
New member
OK, I have the head back now, and have measured the valve clearances. However the metric feeler gauges I now have only measure in increments of 0.05 - is this small enough?
My results:
1 - 0.50
2 - 0.35 (Tight)
3 - 0.40 (Loose).
4 - 0.35 (Tight)
5 - 0.35 (Loose)
6 - 0.50
7 - 0.35 (Tight)
8 - 0.45
So, using rallycinq's post from this thread:
"No 1, exhaust.
Should be between .45 and .55."
Mine is 0.50 - OK
No 2, Inlet
Should be between .35 and .45.
Mine is a tight 0.35 - Is this too tight or OK?
No 3, exhaust
Should be between .45 and .55.
Mine is a loose 0.40 - I'm assuming this one needs changing
No 4, inlet
Should be between .35 and .45.
Mine is a tight 0.35 - Too tight?
No 5, Inlet
Should be between .35 and .45.
Mine is a loose 0.35 - OK
No 6, exhaust
Should be between .45 and .55.
Mine is 0.50 - OK
No 7, inlet
Should be between .35 and .45.
Mine is a tight 0.35 - Too tight?
No 8, Exhaust
Should be between .45 and .55.
Mine is 0.45 - OK
I'm concerned I can't measure them any more accurately than this - having to use 'tight' and 'loose' because my feeler gauge is in increments of 0.05. Do I need to get a more accurate feeler gauge?
My results:
1 - 0.50
2 - 0.35 (Tight)
3 - 0.40 (Loose).
4 - 0.35 (Tight)
5 - 0.35 (Loose)
6 - 0.50
7 - 0.35 (Tight)
8 - 0.45
So, using rallycinq's post from this thread:
"No 1, exhaust.
Should be between .45 and .55."
Mine is 0.50 - OK
No 2, Inlet
Should be between .35 and .45.
Mine is a tight 0.35 - Is this too tight or OK?
No 3, exhaust
Should be between .45 and .55.
Mine is a loose 0.40 - I'm assuming this one needs changing
No 4, inlet
Should be between .35 and .45.
Mine is a tight 0.35 - Too tight?
No 5, Inlet
Should be between .35 and .45.
Mine is a loose 0.35 - OK
No 6, exhaust
Should be between .45 and .55.
Mine is 0.50 - OK
No 7, inlet
Should be between .35 and .45.
Mine is a tight 0.35 - Too tight?
No 8, Exhaust
Should be between .45 and .55.
Mine is 0.45 - OK
I'm concerned I can't measure them any more accurately than this - having to use 'tight' and 'loose' because my feeler gauge is in increments of 0.05. Do I need to get a more accurate feeler gauge?
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Have you reset the valves yet?
Cheers
SPD
Cheers
SPD
gp3000000
New member
How do I go about doing that?
I would remove the valves, clean them and lap then in (to provide a better gas seal), while you have the head off.
Cheers
SPD
Cheers
SPD
I think you are assuming he took the cam off the head for skimming and I am assuming he didn't.
Lets wait for the OP to fill in the details.
Cheers
SPD
gp3000000
New member
I have the head on the table in the garden, it's not back on the car yet.
The cam was taken out for the head skim by the place that did the skim; they also put it back in. So I thought I would now simply be able to measure the clearances, change the shims that needed to be changed, and put the head back on, however I don't know whether any need changing because all but one of the clearances are OK, as far as I can tell, but need advice on whether, for example, a 'tight' 0.35 is acceptable on an inlet valve that's supposed to be 0.35 - 0.45?
The cam was taken out for the head skim by the place that did the skim; they also put it back in. So I thought I would now simply be able to measure the clearances, change the shims that needed to be changed, and put the head back on, however I don't know whether any need changing because all but one of the clearances are OK, as far as I can tell, but need advice on whether, for example, a 'tight' 0.35 is acceptable on an inlet valve that's supposed to be 0.35 - 0.45?
Hi David you have the second sight... would not have trusted an eng shop to not play musical chairs with the shims myself...
Hi GP if you remove the shims and mic them or read the nominal thickness then you may be able to juggle them for better fit or ask if any one has one you need to hand, postage on a shim is not that dear. Less then tolerance margin on an exhaust is bad.
Noel
Hi GP if you remove the shims and mic them or read the nominal thickness then you may be able to juggle them for better fit or ask if any one has one you need to hand, postage on a shim is not that dear. Less then tolerance margin on an exhaust is bad.
Noel
While its on the table, do you want to make sure the valves are OK, or not?
Cheers
SPD
Cheers
SPD
