yep its the same-exactly

at exhaust there was only drops of water, white smoke and no specific smell-also nothing like smell of coolant or petrol-only small smell of petrol in front of car maybe caused by hoses disconnecting

ecu reading is expensive-i can buy new lambda for price of ecu reading and only thing they will tell me will be: "possibly lambda fault, maybe other sensors, and could be also ecu". they are only taking money, i have some experiences with this, trust me

all sensors swapped with different one(used from 899's engine)-when swapped lambda it was fine, for a while..

i no the ecu reading isnt cheap, i got rid of my code reader a few weeks ago so cant read them no more, i went as far as getting an auto electrician to look at mine, after some time he told me the lambda wasnt working properly, but on closer inspection the lambda was fine so the wiring was faulty, the heated curciut in the sensor wasnt right and so the lambda was causing bad fueling problem on start up and the warm up period and then once warm the fueling was all over the place due to the lambda, you can feel the lambda switching from rich to weak on the road, the car slows and speeds up slightly with the sensor,,,,,,the sensor is surrposed to switch from rich to weak to allow oxygen to enter the exhaust in the weak stage for the cat to work but shouldnt feel that happeneing
i bought a new loom and will be fitting it soon so ill let you no if that cures it after a full year of this fault!!

jason

The oether problem with code reading is the ienterpretation of the results.

Many faults will come up as a lambda fault because the lambda is seeing something it shouldn't, where quite often another sensor has failed and that is why the lambda is seeing the wrong thing.

Cheers

SPD

what do u mean by "loom"??? cant find in translator

also I forgot one thing its de-cat, but it was running for year and long without faults

new pics-head skimmed, block surface cleaned, rubbish from inside water canals(i never ever recommend using radweld to anybody, either my enemy-flushed three times, changed coolant twice, rad, and still red rubbish all over, and i dont think its rust)

The rad may be in a bad state after rad weld i.e. flow less water, it is normally only a get you home then you should replace the rad quickly, reverse flush with hose and the use proprietary rad flush kit.

Noel

pepo-read above-changed everything, flushed (what I have this car I flushed cooling system 3-4times, changed coolant twice, and still red liquid-radweld is garbage)

cinq is back at wheels, finally not overheating at all, and no pressure, still white smoke when warm, didnt change lambda yet, must driveout all petrol and check if theres not coolantloss again

strangely it couldnt start when I starting it first time after assembling everything, some bacfire, strange sounds, valve knocking-after while it starts and running normal. maybe because no oil inside head??

and fan still running very short time-but not overheating

and to lambda-whats the procedure to change it?? found somwhere battery have to be disconnected - is that true..???

Diwiak said:

and to lambda-whats the procedure to change it?? found somwhere battery have to be disconnected - is that true..???

Click to expand...

no, just change it like you would a spark plug
and by loom i mean the engine wiring loom.

thanks

jason

when starting cold its running on very low revs, theres around 9degreesC outside. any idea why?? is it idle control or could be lambda or what? thanks

Not lambda, doesn't work during warm up.

Cheers

SPD

so what it could be?? staritng from cold-revs at 800, difficult starting. after seconds i switched off egine, then start again and its normal then-its holding 1.5k-like for cold engine.

is it something to do with idle valve?? or temp sensor at manifold?? maybe wiring defective?? or temp sensor at TB??

when running cold there is petrol pouring down the TB. will ecu reset helps??

THANKS

There should be more petrol when cold than when hot, the richer mixture is what helps starting.

Check all the sensors for a dodgy reading, including the throttle position sensor.

Cheers

SPD

new lambda, 300+ miles done, running great now, idle improved, starting easily, no cutouts, hopefully it wont break again.

btw. lambda for 38 EUR, it says "Magnetti marelli aftermarket" Assembled in USA

did you get one of those lambda where you have to cut and solder it on ??

They are no good from my experience!

Ming

yes its 'UNI' type, you must solder, or this have connectors u need to press with pliers, I did it precisely and put shrinkable tube onto it so all leads are covered, its freely moving so hopefully leads wont disrupt

next lambda on store was bosch with fiat connector for terrible 138 EUR !!!!

the one with the proper connector is defo expensive but they will easily last 5 times as long .

I had 2 of those uni ones before, 1 last for 9 months another lasted for 1 year

Ming

and what went wrong with them?? this have 2year guarantee, its just f***ing too much pay 100eur more

the engine management just comes back on and stay on !

ming