Having read up on other Brava owners' experiences a chain of events has led me to get a brand new ECU for Betsie Brava - our 1.4 12v. I am now preparing to code the ECU to our keys. Last year Betsie failed to start following a short trip. My wife got the AA to tow her to a local garage. They diagnosed a dead fuel pump. A new fuel pump was fitted but we were told that the failed pump had taken out the ECU which was no longer supplying power to the pump. The ECU was sent off for (a costly) repair and all appeared fine initially. However the engine began to exhibit hot-starting problems. Short journeys were OK as the engine would re-start so long as it wasn't fully hot. Longer journeys were OK so long as a restart was made after 10 minutes or less. Once left for more than 10 minutes the engine refused to fire. It would spin round OK, no smell of fuel or anything, but just refused to fire. The car had to be left to cool down completely, usually a couple of hours. After this it started fine.

Reading of similar problems I changed in turn the crank position (RPM) sensor, oxygen and temperature sensors. I also carried out the procedure to allow the ECU to recalibrate itself but nothing made any difference. As the hot-starting problem only began after the ECU repair I concluded it must be the ECU itself. I had fallen out with the garage who had it repaired due to poor work in other areas so began to look for a replacement ECU myself. I found some one who had BRAND NEW Brava ECUs. These are blank i.e. not coded yet. My understanding is that I need to program the new ECU to the keys we have.

Q1 - We do not have a red key, only 2 blue keys. Do we need one?
Q2 - Does a red key have a 'special' code?
Q3 - Can I just get my local locksmith to make me a new red key, with a random code?
Q4 - Do I need 2 DIFFERENT codes for the blue keys? Currently they are both the same.
Q5 - Is there anything else I need to know before fitting and programming the new ECU?

Thanks in anticipation guys.

I use the following method and it works every time blue or master key.
The ecu novram needs to be empty (all FF). And not yet powered up since clearing.
Turn ignition to on (not start), with a known working key. Disconnect battery lead.
Fit new ecu and connect everything up exept battery.
Replace battery lead with one movement and hold for five seconds.
Tighten battery lead.
Never fails.

as above, you dont need to program the ecu to the keys, you only pair a new ecu to the codebox, which happens automatically if you definately have a virgin ecu (one that really is brand new never been fitted).

you cant get a red key made because it must have the same code as the codebox. you dont need a red key or a 2nd blue key with a different code so dont worry about it. just make sure you always have at least 2 copies of your working blue key, if you ever lose one of them then get it copied asap.



the hot starting problem could be the ecu if it ihas been repaired. a repair almost certainly invovled resoldering some joints, and when this is done badly it is not unusual to get open circuits when everything expands under heat. you could probably repair your ecu with a soldering iron, simply retouch any joints that appear to have been repaired, making sure you use plenty of flux.

Yippee - all done thanks

Reddy4bed and Jug - many thanks guys. I fitted the new ECU with the ignition on and battery off. After replacing the battery lead the 'CODE' light took about 3 minutes to go out - but out it went. I love the simple solutions. Betsie started up fine and a number of test runs have shown no problems starting. I have a lot invested in this old girl having rebuilt the top end last Christmas and am really pleased to have fixed the hot-starting problem. My wife just wouldn't use the car because of the hot-starting troubles.

Thanks again guys