T14086 said:

I never disconnect the battery (I should really ) just stay away from any yellow airbag wiring.
Dont need any luck mate...were here to help if your stuck
Can give you more wiring info if you want it?

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you really shoul? Does that mean being the novice i am im should?!
thanks fo the support
Any info that you think i might need?
I think i have it now although a couple of things
on the diagram where the wires "join" they have little circles .. so according to the diagram, I should join the "yellow/black" to the "yellow" and then join that to "common which we're thinking is earth? - Am i looking for an earth cable or just an earthing point?
Those scissor bits i guess that means I dont need to do anything with those wires? ("orange/black" and "orange")
Sorry for the questions, gotta make sure its clear in myhead.. I dont want to nacker my c/l altogether!
Thanks loads
laurie

Ones with scissors you need to cut at the point it says (the connections either side of it bypass the cut you make in the wire). Good luck!

from my notes which are about 8 years old so might be bit wrong?

siren location=behind headlight n/s(1.8 & 2.0) or drivers headlight (1.4 & 1.6)

control unit location=under dash o/s at fusebox

battery supply=red wire at white 12 way connector marked J (terminal 2) located at rear of fusebox.

ignition supply=orange wire from ignition switch

immobilisation=cut brown/white wire at terminal 2 grey 7 way connector at fusebox.

indicators=light blue(terminal 5) & light blue/black(terminal 8) wires on connector H in fusebox.

locking=lock-white
unlock-light blue
both these wires located at wiring harness going into drivers door,so you can pick them up inside of 'A' pillar.

door protection=white/red wire at drivers door wiring harness

boot protection=red/black wire in overhead light

from memory I think there is a large rubber grommet in the bulkhead (which comes out rear of glovebox) area that I used to pass the wires through but the grommet is very thick & awkward to pass wiring through.

Good luck

ok cool think i can do it, thanks Helz and T14086
annoyingly we have thunder, lightning and rain today so i wont be doing it.
mind you i quite like thunder so it aint too bad
Thanks again
Laurie

sorry to drag this up again but I just wanted to check..
Would it be ok to use these
connectors to set up my central locking? Or should I really solder and heatshrink some tubing around them? (im not brilliant at soldering)
Thanks
Laurie
PS : If i do use the click connectors, i wouldnt buy them from them..well epensive! Just to show what I mean

click connectors (or scotch locks as we call them north of the border ) should never be used outside of the car cause obviously they are not weather protected but inside yeah why not.Solder is better(must be soldered if to VSIB spec) but scotch locks will do the job.

T14086 said:

click connectors (or scotch locks as we call them north of the border ) should never be used outside of the car cause obviously they are not weather protected but inside yeah why not.Solder is better(must be soldered if to VSIB spec) but scotch locks will do the job.

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okie dokie .. so they'll be inside the car so will suffice. I can always come back at a later stage to solder if i feel i can.
Whats VSIB spec??!
Thanks
Laurie

VSIB is a standard of fitment when fitting cat 1/2 alarms....all wiring soldered,heatshrunk & hidden etc

so i finaly managed to get round to doing this .. after eventually finding all the tools I managed to get the door card off to look at the wires.
I've joined the lock and unlock wires, but then got a bit confused.
Looking back over the diagram
click for picture
this "common" wire. Is it the earth? As there is already an earth (black wire) at the top of the diagram.

I struggled to work out what had happened for ages as the key wouldn't lock until i realised I had disconnected the electric window buttons!!! (in order to remove the door card). Once I'd plugged them back in, the lock worked again (not remote, but key in the lock)
So can i unplug window buttons, and cut the red 12v wire without worrying about getting electrocuted?
I've stopped at the point of earthing and powering the remote box because I didnt think it was safe.
How can I safely disconnect the battery?

Sorry for all the questions - ive put them in bold to make it a bit clearer.
Thanks loads in advance
Laurie

ocking=lock-white
unlock-light blue
both these wires located at wiring harness going into drivers door,so you can pick them up inside of 'A' pillar.


No need to take door panel off

Anyway from the diagram it appears that the white/black & yellow go to the common line...this being in a negative switched system a earth.

This has nothing to do with the other earth (black) wire.

Why are you cutting a 12v wire?

T14086 said:

ocking=lock-white
unlock-light blue
both these wires located at wiring harness going into drivers door,so you can pick them up inside of 'A' pillar.


No need to take door panel off

Anyway from the diagram it appears that the white/black & yellow go to the common line...this being in a negative switched system a earth.

This has nothing to do with the other earth (black) wire.

Why are you cutting a 12v wire?

Click to expand...

Damn .. because I originally had it my head to go behind the door card, I forgot what you said about the A pillar..
However, if I go through the A pillar, where can I put (hide) the new processing box? Or am I missing something? (highly likely)

Im not going to be cutting the 12v wire .. Thats what I was checking
It just confused my when I looked at the diagram again.. As there is a fused red wire that on the diagram says +12v so I thought it would have to be connected.. I guess that if I had a different car I might need to connect it then.

Told you I'm not very good at this stuff

llol_slim, did you get this working or are you still having problems?

I've got a Brava now, and last week bought this exact kit- i recognise the crap instructions (ebay, right!) Sadly it's not working for me yet either but I only got it yesterday. I know it works though because I tried it in a punto - I think I'm getting stuck on the power wire. How did you get on?

Dr_Pepper said:

llol_slim, did you get this working or are you still having problems?

I've got a Brava now, and last week bought this exact kit- i recognise the crap instructions (ebay, right!) Sadly it's not working for me yet either but I only got it yesterday. I know it works though because I tried it in a punto - I think I'm getting stuck on the power wire. How did you get on?

Click to expand...

hi - yep ebay
unfortunately i havnt had the time to completely wire it up yet which is fustrating me. however next week i have a week off so plan to finish it then.

Can i ask, where have you accessed the wires from?

I haven't fathomed the power wire, people on this thread have said that its a negative lock system so doesnt need power, only earthing (which i also hvnt figured out!)
Think the main reason i haven't found time to do it is because its confusing me quite a bit and im scared off disconnecting the battery as I've never done anything like that before!!

What stage are you at?
good luck and lets work it out together !!
Laurie

Negative controlled locking means it simply gets a negative pulse (postive locking gets a positive) find your locking wires then put a multimeter ortest light on it & operate the locking.This will determine if its neg/pos locking...details I have here is your car is neg controlled.
Therefore when you operate your alarm the locking module should put out a negative to lock or open the doors.

dont try to find wires, just take the glove box out and remove the yellow CL relay. there's 5 pins, each labeled, use a wiring diagram to figure out which wire is which and then solder your new wires onto the pins of the relay, plug the relay back in and hey presto your all done. its easy, tidy, well hidden and doesnt damage any original wires. the relay does have the live and earth clearly labeled, and iirc it was pins 1 and 2 or 1 and 3 for the lock/unlock signal wires.

Thanks people.

llol_slim, I used the wires coming out of the passenger door, easily accessed behind the glovebox. I can't even see the ones coming out of the driver's door because the fuses are in the way. The wires are all there (same colours as people have mentioned above). Yes it's negative controlled, but that doesn't mean you don't need power it means connect them as per the top diagram rather than the others! As Jug mentioned it's tidier to do it via his method but I did it the messy way.

I know I've got the right wires because when I connect the positive to the lock, it locks, and when I connect the positive to the unlock, it unlocks. Simple, but the control unit isn't working.

I'm now sure it's the two wires which say "common wire" which I've got wrong. When I set it up on the punto I connected them to the earth, and it worked. But now it's not happening. I've tried the positive and just nothing as well but it's still not working.

without a diagram or description of your current set up its tricky to guess where you've gone wrong. a negatively switched system should lock when you earth one wire and then unlock when you earth another wire. these two "earthing" wires will be connected to the control unit, which in turn should be connected to a good earth on the car, an obviously also a good live to power its reciever and internal switches. basically the control unit should have 6 wires, a main earth, a main live, and then 2 pairs of switch wires (positive pair and negative pair) the negative pair need to be connected to your car's wiring, the positive pair can be cut back and isolated. doesnt sound like you've done that?