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Spring Replacement
Published by LittleRedB
13-01-2008
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Spring Replacement

You will need;

1 1/2 to 2 hours for the front spring replacement

30 mins for the rear spring replacement

> A set of new springs
> A Jack
> An axle stand
> Spring compressor set
> Ratchet
> 10mm socket
> 15mm Spanner/socket
> 17mm Spanner/socket
> 19mm Spanner/socket
> Hammer (of course!)
> Copper grease
> Packet of band-aid

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Front spring replacement

Difference between new and old springs (in this case Eibach Pro's - 30mm height reduction)

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Jack up the car and lower onto an axle stand, remove the front wheel and apply a liberal spray of WD40 to all nuts and bolts on the top and bottom of the shock absorber assembly.

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Next, remove the ABS sensor pipe and the brake pipe from the bottom of the shock absorber assembly moving them to one side so as not to get snagged later in the process.

Once the sensor pipe and brake pipe have been removed undo the nut's on the bottom of the shock absorber.

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Next, apply the spring compressors on opposing sides of the spring assembly and compress the spring evenly turning one side then the other

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Now remove the bolts on the bottom of the shock absorber (you may need to 'help' these along with a hammer - be careful not to damage the bolt or thread). Then move the hub assembly away from the shock absorber taking care not to snag the brake line or ABS sensor.

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Now turn your attention to the top of the shock absorber assembly under the bonnet. Firstly remove the rubber cap covering the top of the assembly, secondly 'crack' the nut on the top centre of the shock absorber loose - this will take some effort and I would suggest a strong arm and socket to get it started.

Next, remove the shock absorber retaining nuts (I suggest getting someone to support the shock from underneath at this point) and squeeze together the small plastic locating clips, the complete shock/spring unit will now pull clear of the car.

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Now remove the nut on the top of the shock absorber (ensure you take note of the way the 'cap' faces first), to remove the nut you will need to hold the centre bolt assembly with a hex headed socket. Once the nut is off pull the centre 'cap' clear and loosen off the spring compressors (as evenly as possible), then remove the old spring.

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Now locate the new springs in the shock absorber (this should be easy to do, make sure you locate the springs in the locating grooves shaped into the shock cap and shock body).

Now re-assemble the shock assembly in the reverse from the steps used to remove it.

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Make sure that you apply a liberal covering of copper grease when re-assembling the unit, it will ensure inhibit corrosion in the future.

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Once everything is back together give every nut and bolt once last 'nick' to ensure that they are all tight and safe - then re-assemble the wheels, remove the axle stand and jack...........

Rear spring replacement

Now you can turn your attention to the rear springs, I suggest asking someone for help as you will need to push the entire trailing arm assembly down using the rear wheels.......you will not need the spring clamps for the rear.

Firstly jack up the car as high as possible and put the car on an axle stand.

Next, remove the retaining bolt on the bottom of the shock absorber, once the shock absorber bolt has been removed the entire trailing arm assembly will swing loose, then remove the plastic cap in the middle of the bottom of the spring.

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To remove the spring throw all finesse out of the window and 'screw' the spring out of its holder, at this point it will help if someone can push the wheel towards the ground to give you as much room as possible. This takes a bit of physical effort and is fiddly but not difficult.

Once the old spring is out reverse the process to install the new spring, again this is fiddly but not difficult.

The most difficult part of the re-assembly process is re-aligning the shock bolt with the trailing arm, again I suggest getting a willing friend to lift/support the wheel while you re-locate the bolt.

In all replacing the back springs should not take more than 30 mins total.

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If you have any feedback or suggestions to make this guide more usable or clearer please drop me a PM and I will update it............
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Old 13-01-2008   #1
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Re: Spring Replacement

Great guide LRB
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Last edited by docorangepeel; 13-01-2008 at 23:27.
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Old 08-02-2008   #2
Rosso Corsa of corsa!!!
 
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Re: Spring Replacement

Thanks for the phone support Doc!!
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1999 Rosso Corsa, Leather, HID conversion, Strut Brace, FOX Evo3 Alloys, fast road brakes, GSR Induction kit, Eibach Pro springs, DTR exhaust and a bunch of other stuff..

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Old 23-06-2008   #3
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Re: Spring Replacement

Many thanks, much appreciated, but we didn't need the spring compressors until after the front coilovers were removed, nor when they were replaced. Going to tackle the rears next.
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Old 07-07-2008   #4
Rosso Corsa of corsa!!!
 
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Re: Spring Replacement

Quote Originally Posted by UKKid35 View Post
Many thanks, much appreciated, but we didn't need the spring compressors until after the front coilovers were removed, nor when they were replaced. Going to tackle the rears next.
Thanks for the feedback Paul

I have changed springs on a couple of cars (and HGV's) in my distant past, I always found it easier to compress the springs while on the vehicle - that said there is no reason to to compress them when the strut is off!

Rear's are easy, should take no more than 30 mins for both sides - good luck
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1999 Rosso Corsa, Leather, HID conversion, Strut Brace, FOX Evo3 Alloys, fast road brakes, GSR Induction kit, Eibach Pro springs, DTR exhaust and a bunch of other stuff..

Old enough to know better - wise enough not to care!
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Old 07-07-2008   #5
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Re: Spring Replacement

Some cars you definitely have to compress the springs before removal. The McPherson struts on my Capris had to be compressed, there was no top perch to hold the assembly together otherwise, just the weight of the car.

Changing springs on the B is much eaiser because the coil-over comes out in one peice and without too much manouvering, unlike my current car where it has to be threaded out carefully with the upper wishbone held just right.

If anyone is interested in the Novitech springs we removed (probably 30mm lower, and corners like its on rails), please let me know.
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Old 23-07-2008   #6
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Re: Spring Replacement

Didn't need to compress my springs (standard setup) to remove the strut assembly.

Watch out for the crappy bearing that sits between the spring and the top elastic pad, it has a tendency to burst open both when everything is being taken apart and when it's being put back together again. At the best part of 60 quid a pop it pays to be careful.

Pictures follow.

H
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #7
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Re: Spring Replacement

what about the very top of spring is there some sort of rubber damper did you change that as well if so how did you get it out.
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