Technical Oil cooler installation

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Technical Oil cooler installation

Tom "hobbler" gave me a link to a YouTube film showing the venturi and the cooler install.
I'm sure he can send you this info.
Transmission cooler is fine. Are you going to fit a filter or oil thermostat?
 
Well if Tom is reading this...
No I am not going to use a filter or thermostat. I think that fiat centrifugal filter is enough. You know those transmission coolers have smaller tubes and I am not sure if they going to limit oil circulation which in the other hand is low press in this engine. I like them because they are small in size.
 
Evening Tom; The u-tube series of films was entitled "Abarth 695--parts 1 to 8.
The film entitled '1.5' showed the engine build-up, and one of the later films showed the oil-cooler installation. The films, put out bu 'Dutch Abarth' sadly, seem to have disappeared. You might get something by seeing if 'Dutch Abarth' have anything on line. If I remember correctly the filter, a fairly shallow but wide filter, was fitted on the o/s of the car in the area just behind the rear bulkhead, angled a bit (top of filter further forward than the bottom of the filter) with a built-in air scoop to aim the cooling air through the filter.
With regard to fitting a gear-box cooler, being that there is no 'oil pressure' in the gearbox, I cannot see how one would get the oil to circulate through the filter.
Sorry I can't bee of more help
 
With regard to fitting a gear-box cooler, being that there is no 'oil pressure' in the gearbox, I cannot see how one would get the oil to circulate through the filter.Sorry I can't bee of more help

Tom hi and thank you, yes i have reed about those series of videos but never found them in you tube. As for the cooler I mean to connect a transmission oil cooler taken from a modern car (those are full of coolers bmw M5 has 8 of them!) and connect it to my engine as an engine oil cooler.

Thomas
 
Thomas,
I bought an oil cooler from a 1988 GSX 750 bike. (I can take dimensions this evening.) There are a lot of bike oil coolers that are a good size, this was just a random gamble from ebay. Many bikes have non-standard pipes so check the fittings look normal.


I plan on fitting mine under the car roughly where the petrol tank sits in a 126 so it sounds like my set up will be similar to yours. I've added a photo of the modified timing chain cover. I don't think there are any modifications to the inside, but I can check against a standard one. I will also post a few photos of the CNC block that bolts on top. As I mentioned in the other post this is a loan but I intend to have the fitting braised on. O-rings are great, I prefer to avoid additional sealing points.


Michael
 

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Michael hi, If you don't mind can you also take pictures of the inside of the pump to see the gear mod? I still don't get from where the oil passes if you block or restrict the gear hole down to 2mm I guess I will when I get mine in hand. Anyway post as much as you can if not a problem. As for the take out I am planing also to weld an output but I also might buy the adaptor. Your cooler is nice and I am looking for something similar.
 
I'll get another photo of new and old compared, it might make more sense. The M4 Capheads normally live on the outside to hold this adapter in place:
https://webshop.fiat500126.com/en/t...pter-for-oil-cooler-kit-for-timing-case-cover


I just fitted them inside so I don't loose them. The oil cooler was very cheap. If you are looking for a low cost oil cooler I would suggest a motorcycle autojumble, it's a great way to hunt for a cooler by size rather than by bike.
 

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Starting to make sence now thank you, is your pump gear also blocked? I have made a quick research and suzuki TL 1000 also suits my needs.
 
There was no pump with this kit which suggests it should be fitted with a standard pump.
 
Hi Tom; I am away from home at the moment (looking after grandchildren), but when I get back this evening I will describe what I have/done when i have the parts in my hand.
 
Tom, back home now and, as promised, details of the installation that I will be fitting on my '695' engine (being slowly built up, as funds allow). There are a variety of fitment units---the Nanni Ricambi remote oil-filter kit only uses 3 of the 4 oil-pump bolts---other units, as per 'Mod500's' pictureof the timing-chain housing, uses all 4 of the oil-pump retaining bolts. In his case of my kit, the 3 bolts securing the oil-filter housing go all the way through (from the pump side) ----oil-pump/timing chain housing/oil-filter housing and are then secured with nuts on the outside. I have managed to find some ny-loc 'dome'nuts which will look neat and tidy. Also,doing it this way means that there is almost no chance of anything falling off into the timing-chain housing (e.g.a nut if it was secured from the outside, inwards). The securing holes need to be tapped all the way through the timing-chain housing. The oil outlet hole is, in my case, 9mm---I suspect that it is this size in most of the kits. Sealing the oil take-off, be it for a filter or an oil-cooler is made with an 'O' ring seal, in a groove in the section of the take-off that sits against the timing-chain cover.
Another way to achieve a 'take-off' is, if you have access to a GOOD welder, to simply weld on an aluminium hose union of the required size for the hosing that you use.
The DRIVEN gear wheel in the pump is the gear to modify---if left un-modified I am told that the oil pressure builds up too much. Tap a thread into the end of the gear AWAY from the cam-shaft. One way is to plug that hole with the correct size bolt, cut of the bolt flush with end of the gear and then drill a 2.5mm hole down the middle of the plug. The other method is to make a small plug (from a bolt) that will thread into the tapped end of the gear with the 2.5mm hole already drilled. Cut a screw-driver slot into the plug to enable fitment. DON'T FORGET TO LOC-TITE THE STUD IN PLACE!
As you are most probably aware, the oil-return hose fits into the crank-case in place of the blanking plug on the crank-case just ahead of the timing-chain cover at about "2 o'clock". They can be a right bugger to take out!
I hope that all of this helps you---but I am sure that there are members out there who can tell me where I have gone wrong!
 
Thank you Tom, since this is about engine lubrication I want to be sure about what I am doing. Always wandered how this o-ring is kept in place, now I know. Also 9mm hole very useful info. I hope that I will start the modification soon and report back with pictures.
 
The DRIVEN gear wheel in the pump is the gear to modify---if left un-modified I am told that the oil pressure builds up too much. Tap a thread into the end of the gear AWAY from the cam-shaft. One way is to plug that hole with the correct size bolt, cut of the bolt flush with end of the gear and then drill a 2.5mm hole down the middle of the plug. The other method is to make a small plug (from a bolt) that will thread into the tapped end of the gear with the 2.5mm hole already drilled. Cut a screw-driver slot into the plug to enable fitment. DON'T FORGET TO LOC-TITE THE STUD IN PLACE!

Tom i reed that this gear modification is only necessary in the case that you are about to install a remote filter that might been blown during, I don't know, cold situations. Shall I assume that it is not necessary if you don't put a remote filter but just the cooler? On the other hand i don't think it is that bad to drill a 2mm hole anyway even without a remote filter.
Thomas
 
During winter engine temp is just bellow to 80 Celsius, at summer around 100 or 110 in traffic and 115 at big hills. My goal is to keep it during summer at 90-95.

I've just been reading an excellent story where a Fiat 500 Giardinera was driven from Germany to Tuscany and back. Over 1700 km and at fairly high speeds, the owner was pleased that oil temperature was around 120C. :)

https://translate.googleusercontent...700253&usg=ALkJrhisAcAOgr_HbzqNdRprPjTptIgE-g
 
I've just been reading an excellent story where a Fiat 500 Giardinera was driven from Germany to Tuscany and back. Over 1700 km and at fairly high speeds, the owner was pleased that oil temperature was around 120C. :)

https://translate.googleusercontent...700253&usg=ALkJrhisAcAOgr_HbzqNdRprPjTptIgE-g


You are killing me Peter;) in fact i have seen mine reaching 120 while hill climbing at a Greek summer hot day and i couldn't get my eyes from the temp cage until start descending form that mountain. Summer will be here within a month so i will start soon. This summer goal is to pass that mountain at 95 Celsius top Also everybody check this ''not so wise'' in my opinion cooler installation except if you live in Antarctica or something
 

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What is the black part on the side of the head?
 

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Looks like oil cooler to me!


While that is very neat, I'm not sure your oil cooler will be doing much. You will be using air already warmed up by the head to cool down the oil. it's better to use air that hasn't already been heated.


Assuming the ambient temperature is 30 degrees, Air at thermostat is 70 degrees and oil temperature is 100 degrees. With a remotely fitted oil cooler there is a potential 70 degrees difference in temperature to cool the oil. With an oil cooler using thermostat air there is a potential 40 degrees difference in temperature to cool the oil. This setup would be best suited if the idle temperature was too high, but the running temperature was ok.


Can you get the engine running off the car and map the temperature change with the oil cooler next to the head, and further away? It should give you some good data before committing to fitting the oil cooler there.
 
I think that you will find, if you look at Tom's initial comment, that this something he has seen and questioned the sense in putting the oil-cooler in that location. I think that we all agree that it is a pretty daft place to put ANY sort of cooler!
 
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