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Old 17-08-2020   #196
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

Quote Originally Posted by F123C View Post

With the coil lead disconnected (i.e. ignition system disabled) there is little load on the crank bearings or the piston skirts, so minimal risk of any damage being caused by spinning the engine over to prime oilways and build up oil pressure - assuming a little oil was applied to these areas during the assembly. I know some time has passed since your engine was built, but the oil applied won't have disappeared.

If I was concerned, I'd remove the oil pressure warning light sender unit (oil pressure switch on the main oil gallery on the side of the engine/crankcase) and use one of these 'oil suction guns' :-


I haven't seen any mention of any rust-proofing having been applied.

Before any trim is installed, is an ideal opportunity to spray something suitable (Waxoyl or your preference) in all box sections ,on the reverse-side of all the window/screen openings, up inside doors, engine lid/bonnet frames - anywhere you don't want rust to start/get worse (there's probably some hiding right now in some of the hidden sections ).

Tip:- some of these rust-proofing products stink (and will continue to stink for a very long time, including fragrancing your garage....) so you might consider adding a few drops of some nice fragrance/essential oil? to your chosen treatment before application. (many such treatments can continue to drip from drain holes for some time afterwards, so take appropriate action to protect your garage floor/driveway).

Hth,

Al.
Hi Al,

Thanks for the tips. At the bodyshop, the floor of the car was under sealed and the cavities were filled with cavity wax. We were also given an extra can to do the doors on assembly too.
When the assembly is complete, the underside will also be protected with Dynax UC clear coat to protect all areas where parts are attached to the body.

Cheers,

Katie
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Old 18-08-2020   #197
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

We have got to the dry crank stage, spark and fuel are disconnected, and the oil pressure light isn’t going out. How long does it need to be turned over for before pressure is achieved?

We’ve tried 4 times with increasing time on each go. The last time being around 10 seconds. The oil is 3/4 full on the dipstick. The pressure switch is working, we have tested it.
Is it simply a case of the engine at cranking speed doesn’t achieve enough pressure? If we hook up the fuel and spark to let the engine run, will it be more likely to build pressure and allow the light to go out?
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Last edited by Katie B; 18-08-2020 at 18:45.
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Old 18-08-2020   #198
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

I did this same thing today and after turning the engine long enough to get petrol pumped through on quite a few short bursts, eventually the oil-light went off briefly.

I just went out and tested the engine with the coil lead removed and the light stays on; allowing the engine to start and it immediately goes off.

I think you're good to go.
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Old 19-08-2020   #199
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

Admittedly I always prime the oil-pump with vaseline, but from new (I have just re-built my engine, so it was a "as new" situation), about 15 secs of continually cranking with the plugs out saw the oil-pressure light go out. From what you have described, I would have thought that, like Peter suggests, you should be OK to crank into life. All the best!
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Old 19-08-2020   #200
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

Thanks both. We will give it a go today
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Old 19-08-2020   #201
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

We have primed the fuel line up to the pump but when we turn it over the fuel is not passing the pump.
We have also disconnected the fuel line at the carb and tried to suck it through with no joy which leads us to believe the diaphragm is intact. We have tried this with the fuel cap on and off.
Any suggestions on what it could be?
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Old 19-08-2020   #202
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

Quote Originally Posted by Katie B View Post
Any suggestions on what it could be?
Assuming the pump is being fully activated by its pushrod (you would think the assembler has tested that), it is probably just the dryness of the internals having to suck on air rather than fuel. Even small amount of fuel inside the pump would probably get it going.

I would rig up a container of petrol and a temporary delivery pipe to the pump and raise it above so the petrol is initially delivered by siphon to the inlet. That might involve an unpleasant mouthful of fuel, depending how resourceful you are.

Once the pump has that inlet pressure of fuel I'm sure there will quickly be delivery and you can transfer back to the car's own fuel pipe.
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Old 19-08-2020   #203
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

Quote Originally Posted by fiat500 View Post
Assuming the pump is being fully activated by its pushrod (you would think the assembler has tested that), it is probably just the dryness of the internals having to suck on air rather than fuel. Even small amount of fuel inside the pump would probably get it going.

I would rig up a container of petrol and a temporary delivery pipe to the pump and raise it above so the petrol is initially delivered by siphon to the inlet. That might involve an unpleasant mouthful of fuel, depending how resourceful you are.

Once the pump has that inlet pressure of fuel I'm sure there will quickly be delivery and you can transfer back to the car's own fuel pipe.
Thanks! We have done just that and while cranking the engine by hand at the same time we managed to get fuel out of the pump and up to the carb. We are yet to start it up though as it's been raining all morning (no roof or doors on the car yet) and although we have several fire extinguishers ready, common sense dictates this should be done outside. Safety 1st!
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Old 19-08-2020   #204
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

Quote Originally Posted by Katie B View Post
we have several fire extinguishers ready,
...that car is such a scorcher it would have set on fire already if it had any plans to do so!
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Old 19-08-2020   #205
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

He's alive!

After much faffing with a leaking fuel return fitting, and temporarily fitting a fuel filter due to there being lots of crud in the hard line, we finally got him started. We aim to replace the return with a proper T fitting when it arrives.

Thanks to everyone that helped us get here! I'm also happy to report that as soon as the engine catches the oil pressure warning light went out

Has anyone got any tips for adjusting the idle? I'm not using any choke but if I lift off the throttle it dies, feels like the idle speed is set at about 250rpm!

Here is a link to a video https://youtu.be/NJi9BNCkIFA of the 1st start up
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Old 19-08-2020   #206
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

Quote Originally Posted by Katie B View Post
b:

Has anyone got any tips for adjusting the idle?
I don't want to be the one to say "use the idle screw?" , so maybe you could describe more about the situation?
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Old 19-08-2020   #207
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Quote Originally Posted by fiat500 View Post
I don't want to be the one to say "use the idle screw?" , so maybe you could describe more about the situation?
Haha yes, obviously. It was more a comment about how low the idle is set, I had assumed that the idle screw had a fairly narrow range of adjustment, a fine tune if you will. This feels miles off, so I wondered if there was something else more obvious I could check.
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Old 19-08-2020   #208
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

Quote Originally Posted by Katie B View Post
Haha yes, obviously. It was more a comment about how low the idle is set, I had assumed that the idle screw had a fairly narrow range of adjustment, a fine tune if you will. This feels miles off, so I wondered if there was something else more obvious I could check.
If correctly setup, the engine should eventually be able to idle, possibly a bit falteringly, with the screw just slightly bearing on its stop. Perfection of tickover shouldn't be as slow as you might think. The fan needs to turn reasonably fast when you're standing still to provide cooling. A reasonable speed also reduces the natural bounce of the engine on its mountings. Especially when you have a non-synchro box I think it might also affect the smoothness of gearchanging. There's probably an ideal, measurable RPM but I use judgement.

You may want to try this...not infallible and others may have a different approach; this one works for me.

Note the position of the mixture screw in case you want to undo the following. First you have to get the engine properly warmed up; (ideally by driving it):

1. Gently turn the mixture screw clockwise until it just reaches a stop; don't force it.
2. Turn it anti-clockwise from that point, one and a half turns or 540 degrees.
3. Turn the idle screw to make sure the engine can run without faltering.
4. Slowly reduce the idle until the engine is running as slow as posiible...really slow...no worries if it sounds a bit unhappy as long as it keeps rolling.
5. Slowly turn the mixture screw a meagre amount one way and then the other; in both directions make a mental note of each of the points when it makes the tickover very dodgy and then visualise the mid-point of these settings and take the screw back there; it may be exactly the point you started from. The engine should run very slowly but not stall.
6. Adjust the idle screw for a faster and smooth tickover that sounds right to you.
7. Get driving.

...or just turn the idle speed up a notch or two.
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Last edited by fiat500; 19-08-2020 at 21:58.
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Old 19-08-2020   #209
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

The idle screw has quite a wide control range. I would start by setting the mixture screw 1-1/2 turns OUT (i.e.fully in, gently, and then back out 1-1/2 turns) and turning the idle screw in so that you have an idle speed of about 800rpm. As the engine warms up the speed will increase. If you have connected the hand-throttle, you could use this to set a high idle speed until the engine has warmed up, if you haven't, you will just have to use the idle screw, well screwed in. When you do have the idle speed about right, turn the mixture screw in until the engine runs a bit rough, and then back it off---also try screwing the mixture screw out until, again. it runs a bit rough and then screw it back in. Doing this will give you your mixture adjustment range. When you have it idling smoothly, you may have re-adjust the idle speed, and then the mixture screw again---it is a matter of balancing the 2 adjustments. You will find that initially you may have to adjust the idle on a regular basis as the engine loosens up. All my books just say set to a "smooth idle speed", but no actual figure---I have found about 800rpm to be good.
Ihave found this system to be as good a way as any to set the engine up---other people may have slightly differing ways. Would I be correct in thinking that you will be removing that filter over the Alternator? You don't need it, especially there! Well done for getting the 'wee beastie' up and running.
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Old 20-08-2020   #210
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Re: Introduction and my new 1969 500L

Thanks both! We will have a play around with it once we get it out on the road. (hopefully by this weekend if we can get both doors assembled tomorrow)

Quote Originally Posted by the hobbler View Post
Would I be correct in thinking that you will be removing that filter over the Alternator? You don't need it, especially there! Well done for getting the 'wee beastie' up and running.
Yep that's right Tom. We reused the solid fuel line and although we cleaned it out we thought it best to pop a filter on while starting the car up to catch anything that may have been missed from inside the line. There are a few bits on the filter so it looks like we made the right call. It will be removed prior to running on the road along with the fuel return line being plumbed in once the T piece has arrived.
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