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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
Probably blockage in the carb but you could check the vacuum advance too.


Vacuum unit works fine, accelaration pump works - there is no great great spray, just petrol pissing down - I will inspect the membrane anyway.

Recheked timinng - all spot on, compresion test results just proved that the engine is on it's way out. Cyl no.1-9.2, no.2-7, no.3-10.2, no.4-9.7. Wet test put the cyl 2 up to 12. But this should not cause the lack of acceleration under load? Is that right?

Spark plugs inspection: no.2 was sooty/black with some tiny brownish cristal deposit.

When on idle ( warmed up engine) and thotle fully opened rapidly there is some 1 sec delay and suffocation sound.
 
Fuel blockage would be my guess too.
Mine took much stripping and blowing through of internal passageways to clear some sneaky gunk out.

- Happened after engine had been out and inverted with carb on. Note to self, don't be lazy and keep carb upright in future.

If you're lucky it could be in the progression slot in the butterfly block, which is okay to get at.
Happy hunting.
 
2h later, new set of spark plugs, air fiter was fitted and success!!! Did not strip the carb fully, just the front and rear membrane top jets etc. Carb cleaner combine with compressed air done the job, just allow some time for the cleaner to disolve the gunk. Been out for a 20miles spin, the engine or atleast temp gauge is getting even hottier now! Rad fan is kicking in at 115 deg on the scala!
 
Is it possible that by 15cm extension on temp sensor the readings are that far out? Extension was made due to mices living under the bonnet for a while, so additional mm and two soldered connections. I'll inpect engine earting point as well.
Timing is set at 2*BTDC w/out vaccum advance - 3, 4,5* to be checked.
 
Is it possible that by 15cm extension on temp sensor the readings are that far out? Extension was made due to mices living under the bonnet for a while, so additional mm and two soldered connections. I'll inpect engine earting point as well.
Timing is set at 2*BTDC w/out vaccum advance - 3, 4,5* to be checked.

Possibly, its down to the resistance in the wiring potentially knocking the reading on the sensor out I'd have though :confused:
 
T-stat at the hot air intake flap was not responsing at all. Flap was stuck in hot air in position all the time. Tommorow I will check how engine runs with working one fitted. With faulty flap under heavy load i.e. when climbing step hill (staxton hill - 1st gear+ 4x4 engaged) or 5th gear foot down some rattling noise was comming from top end- finger crossed it was pinging rather then bottom end bearings.
 
T-stat at the hot air intake flap was not responsing at all. Flap was stuck in hot air in position all the time. Tommorow I will check how engine runs with working one fitted. With faulty flap under heavy load i.e. when climbing step hill (staxton hill - 1st gear+ 4x4 engaged) or 5th gear foot down some rattling noise was comming from top end- finger crossed it was pinging rather then bottom end bearings.

Staxton Hill is a good proving ground Jacob!
 
Did not had a chance for even short ride, but when siisley was left to run on idle temp reading from external digital meter (probe trapped under timing belt cover just above temp sensor) after 15-20 mins readings were still round about 80 deg C- fan did not kick inBuild in gauge i reading to high for deffo. I'll use this engine as is, i've found 26k miles 176A8.000 1.2 8v mpi which is best what i can imagine for swap.
 
Is it possible to convert and use 999cc intake manifold to fit on to 1242cc MPI head?
I know the bolts are slightly in different position but did anybony done that in the past?
 
Is it possible to convert and use 999cc intake manifold to fit on to 1242cc MPI head?
I know the bolts are slightly in different position but did anybony done that in the past?
It is. Iam going to put 1200 mpi with carb to my grey 4x4,some aluminium welding is required, yellow are the parts you need to fabricate, bottom holes match. It is easier to put mpi manifold on the carb/spi head, because there is already more material in the manifold and only new holes must be drilled. I can make some photos of 1.2 mpi with 1.0 carb manifold attached tommorow.
 
Not been updating recently as i'm bit busy doing this:








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and this

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When I get some spare time, I'm still putting new shinney bits, one of the two CV joint on the front propshaft was rattling badly ( yes, it was noticeble from distance),
One cv joint rubber boot was gone on full circumference, the other one was already split. Shaft was actualy loose in horozontal axis and approx. 8-10 degrees play at the support side.
https://www.fiatforum.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=3491228
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And the final result looks very nice - cv metal bands still not fitted.
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As you might seen, i've got one more pair of those boot advetised on here.

I will let you all know my secret, as i've already told it to Vmax at Panda Camp- above CV joint is same as inner cv joint for Alfa 156 - only £14,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130545315791?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Unfortunately alfa cv boot do not fit panda propshaft.

One shoot showing what I mean saying that my temp gauge is reading to high - rad fan just kicked in.

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New temp sender is one on the way, luckly will be fitted this weeked
 
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