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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
As my current insurance policy runs out at 19/04 i've received renewal today? Multiple car policy with Admiral- £370 for primera p11, £202 for Black Panda and if i'll add Sisley on to it it would be £239. It's for me and my lass with provisional DL. I think I'll go for shoping elsewhere. But I need one quick for Andy's venue.
 
As my current insurance policy runs out at 19/04 i've received renewal today? Multiple car policy with Admiral- £370 for primera p11, £202 for Black Panda and if i'll add Sisley on to it it would be £239. It's for me and my lass with provisional DL. I think I'll go for shoping elsewhere. But I need one quick for Andy's venue.

Go to Peter James insurance for the Pandas, they will put them both on one classic car policy and will definitely be cheaper. They won't cover the Primera unless it's twenty years old or more.

They were £800 cheaper than Admiral when I changed to them. Plus you go straight to a real person when you phone, and that person will not ask you loads of unnecessary questions about three times over because you are paying them with your phone call. :mad:
 
Go to Peter James insurance for the Pandas, they will put them both on one classic car policy and will definitely be cheaper. They won't cover the Primera unless it's twenty years old or more.

They were £800 cheaper than Admiral when I changed to them. Plus you go straight to a real person when you phone, and that person will not ask you loads of unnecessary questions about three times over because you are paying them with your phone call. :mad:

:yeahthat:

Been very impressed with Peter James. Some haven't had good quotes, but most get low ones - their phones are a model of how it should be done - no automated nonsense and it's answered straight away by someone who can actually deal with it (they are based in Birmingham, and apart from the slight language problems with Brum :devil: , it's so much better than a call centre in Turkmenistan......). (y)
 
Nice progress, I also bought new engine mounts. The big rubber bush you were struggling to push to the control arm may be in fact also the correct one. I have one spare control arm, new fiat item but with some patina after lying 25+ years in the garage, I bought it on "flea-market" along with some other bits from a guy ,who had panda 45S mk1 in the 80's. The rubber bush is bigger than in the control arms{ MOOG or Delphi, cant recall that } I've replaced two years ago in trekking.




I keep thinking that one day I will treat Fizzle to new bushes, all round shocks an ARB and maybe lowering springs.

I wonder how much improvement there will beon the ride and handling?
 
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Thanks Guys,

I'll give them a call, but unfortunatelly I don't have full UK DL yet and my other half still needs the "L" plate on.

Will make some decisions tonight as I don't won't spend whole week hanging on the phone while lost of work still to be done to Sisley.
 
Thanks Guys,

I'll give them a call, but unfortunatelly I don't have full UK DL yet and my other half still needs the "L" plate on.

Will make some decisions tonight as I don't won't spend whole week hanging on the phone while lost of work still to be done to Sisley.

A fair few other companies do multi-vehicle, Aviva, Churchill etc, give them a try (y)
 
Please could somebody pot a photo of bottom/ gearbox part of the speedo cable when not fitted to gb?

Reason for me asking is that my gb don't seems to accept the new speedo cable, no gap between the gb case and the white plastic drive screw.
Strange thing is that the old one was exact the same.
 
Sisley is back on road, ( insured and taxed) still not going any further then couple mile from garage. I'm just doing some fine tunings and short trials.

As far as it goes, i'm a bit concern about driving it to Masham, the engine is still overheating, fan does not kick in - new fan switch required. Gearbox is leaking thru speedo cable pick up point.
 
I can bring a spare fan switch on Saturday if you want to try that.

I think a little incontinence is fair enough after 25 years service, it proves fluids are still in there. I may bring a funnel and tools to top up our gearbox oil if you wish to borrow.
 
The resistance value for the rad fan switch itself looks fine - at least on cold engine.
When i've replaced the coolant metal pipe the old one had the inner diameter reduces by 1/2 - all caused by brown rusty rock hard residue. This leads me to think that the others coolant channels might look the same blocking the water flow - i've read in 2009 old post that lack of/ insuffisent water flow can cause rad fan switch not to kick in - is it possible. When engine left on idle for approx. 10 min radiator, both top and bottom hoses to rad, thermostat housing, rocker cover, dizzy etc. are red hot.
New water pump and rad switch are on order now.
I did flush out the system twice with pure water and rad-slush onece before proper coolant was used. Will pop out to local shop for two more bottels of rad-flush + fresh coolant and i'll do some miles before it will be drain (rad-flush). Hopely it will cure the engine.
 
So, done the conduity test with 21W bulb and rad fan switch does not operate when hot.
With two bottles of rad flush and 25g kettle descaler i when for couple rounds on Oliver mountain race circuit, temp were close to 90*C before i've even get to the top, so by using short piece of cable to run the fan done about 15 miles, temp was over 90*C whole time. Water pump has been change by one of the previous owners but wich type of impaler does it have i don' know. Ahope that my new BGA one will have the proper metal cast one.
 
So, done the conduity test with 21W bulb and rad fan switch does not operate when hot.
With two bottles of rad flush and 25g kettle descaler i when for couple rounds on Oliver mountain race circuit, temp were close to 90*C before i've even get to the top, so by using short piece of cable to run the fan done about 15 miles, temp was over 90*C whole time. Water pump has been change by one of the previous owners but wich type of impaler does it have i don' know. Ahope that my new BGA one will have the proper metal cast one.

Love it up Olivers' Mount :D are you confident that it is a malfunction of the fan switch itself?
 
It is more then sure that. The coolant does not have desire flow, might be caused by clogged channels, crapp in rad or water pump not producing enough pressure/flow. I've left to rad flush mixture over night, will run engine for a while tommorow and drain whole lot. When engine is running there almost no water movement in reservoir tank.
 
I've done school boy error! The. Botom rad hose was getting warm NOT red hot as the top one. Took off the thermostat housing off and BINGO! So will buy new stat at local shop for bloody 15GBP - rip off. This combine with new coolant and rad fan switch should let me easly get to Masham.
 
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