Hi all again,
i thought it would be usefull to tell you a story about the distributor replacement in a Fiat 1108 ie engine, since i replaced it before 1 month and had some strange problems.

For the last 3-4 years i knew that the distributor centrifugal weight springs had problems and the ignition advance wasn't correct in all rev range. I tried to change only the springs and i thought it was fixed. But... the problems appeared again

So, i decided to replace the whole distributor with a new one. After searching the market they told me that there is one for the 1.1 ie engine. It was a Marelli ditributor with cost about 130 Euros. I bought it and the replacement was easy with instructions from Haynes manual. Then i went to a local fiat garage and asked them to set the correct ignition advance because i don't have an ignition strobo instrument.

But, they couldn't set the correct advance because if they set it at the correct advance degrees (13-16 BTDC) the engine idle revs were at 1000 - 1200 rpms instead 800-900 that is the correct idle revs. So they decided to set the advance at lower degrees and the car wasn't going well as in the past.

I started searching and i found that the distributor model was Marelli SE101AB but the model that the 1.1ie engine uses is the Marelli SE101C. I asked about this model and they told me that Marelli produces now only SE101AB now and SE101C has stopped. I also found that that the SE101AB is for the 1000cc engine.

I was lucky i had a fiat mechanic friend and he told me to keep the SE101AB distributor and change the vacuum advance diaphragm with one for the 1108 engine because it has a longer plastic driver, then the one that came with the SE101AB distributor, and a little harder diaphragm.

I did it and it was possible to set the correct ignition advance with no problems.

PS: I hope you understand my english writing

Excellent post Geom esp with your use of pics.
The distributor/vacum system on Unos seems to be a common problem.
I had a similar problem with my 1108cc engine and luckily ended up with a distributor and vacum advance from an abandoned wreck for free which done the trick
Pete

This is what finally killed my old Uno 1108cc. I just lost interest in it when the distributor kept breaking.

Hmm, thats bad. Did you try to replace it with another one ?

That's brilliant - thanks very much.

How truely easy is the unit to replace? Assume I'm not a mechanic but can use a basic socket set.

Is a trip to a garage really required? Is there some sort of setting so that it can be put back at the same degrees as it came off?

I can tell there's a little oil leak on my Uno where the distributor is. The car runs fine though, so it's probably a gasket of somesort? Is it easy to fix (see above)?

What do you guys think? Something familiar?

geom said:

Hmm, thats bad. Did you try to replace it with another one ?

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In the year I had the Uno I replaced it twice, both times with used units. Maybe if I'd bit the bullet and fitted a new one it would have been better.

ts86 said:

That's brilliant - thanks very much.

How truely easy is the unit to replace? Assume I'm not a mechanic but can use a basic socket set.

Is a trip to a garage really required? Is there some sort of setting so that it can be put back at the same degrees as it came off?

I can tell there's a little oil leak on my Uno where the distributor is. The car runs fine though, so it's probably a gasket of somesort? Is it easy to fix (see above)?

What do you guys think? Something familiar?

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Personally, for the first time, i went to a garage but it was so easy that after i came home i did the procedure twice cause i wanted to change the one of the two screws that holds it in position.

The procedure is easy and described at Haynes manual. If you don't have it i can attach the specific page. Just inform me

As for the oil leak i had this problem and it is the little round gasket that needs replacement but i dont think it can cause serious problems.

Steve C said:

In the year I had the Uno I replaced it twice, both times with used units. Maybe if I'd bit the bullet and fitted a new one it would have been better.

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Thats was the problem here too. I changed the springs with used units and i thought i fixed it. But...

ts86,

The oil leak from the distributor is something I've ranted on about in the past

There is a small oil seal fitted to the shaft, and pressed into the housing. To replace it, you have to take the distributor apart - which is not difficult! Take it off the engine, mark the position first if you like. A coiled spring (like a keyring) holds the pin into the drive-dog (key? I don't know what you'd call it!). Unscrew various parts of the ignition module and bracket (on the side), and take out the pickup unit (E-clip and washers). It's all rather fascinating, really.

Then just push the shaft out of the housing, and the seal comes out too. It's easy to see why it leaks - because it will be rock-hard instead of soft and pliable. The difficult part is getting a replacement - FIAT dealer only, because it is a non-standard size (diameter approx. 5p piece) So get the part first, and then changing it will be a 1-hour job, tops.

There is an O-ring around the distributor housing, but in my experience that is not the cause of the leak. At least, if it was, the distributor cap would not be filling with oil - oil would just be running out from where the distributor bolted on.

Given that it is easy to dismantle/inspect the distributor, and easy to re-insulate the pickup wires or replace the vacuum advance diaphragm (both common faults) it should not often be necessary to replace the complete distributor. I didn't know that 1108cc distributors were different to those for 999cc, so thanks to Geom for pointing out the differences

By the way, it's well worth the expense of getting someone with a timing light to time the ignition correctly. With vacuum advance pipe pulled off and plugged, timing should be 5 degrees BTDC for the 999cc FIRE, while idling slowly. Re-fix vacuum pipe and set idle to 900RPM. The saving in fuel costs over a couple of months will pay for the timing... well, it shouldn't cost more than 10-20 pounds? I'm lucky, because I have a (hard to find) timing light... rapidly becoming obsolete with today's engines!

-Alex

Hi All,

Before you start replacing the distributor ts86 – what are the symptoms? Its common for the cam cover gasket to leak and fill the spark plug recesses with oil too.

Contrary to Alex’s description, I found my 1.0IE was only leaking form the O-ring gasket. – I still haven’t got round to replacing the distributor shaft seal (Alex) LOL. https://www.fiatforum.com/showthread.php?t=24730 thread has some pictures LOL.

You have the Bosch SPI as 1.1 IE Uno so you won’t be able to set the Idol speed directly. The ECU dose this from input data from its sensors.

I think the timing is different for the IE too – there is no listing for the 1.0 IE, but plenty for the 1.1IE.

Regards All,

Alex, I know but I don't get clutch judder or anything like that, just a dirty engine bay really.

Thing is, my distributor cap isn't filling with oil at all. It's been off/on twice since I've had the car (about 7k miles now). I think it might be the O-ring gasket. I've tried to figure out your description by looking at my engine bay and the haynes manual. What's the worst that can happen? Is it possible to actually mess anything up etc.? Do remember I'm no mechanic as such and the car does run fine, so to break the car would cost quite much to get my mechanic to fix (on the distributor part alone).

Louie - there are no 'symptoms'! The car runs fine like it has always done. The leak makes the engine bay look really dirty, and is if there is something wrong with the engine. The cam/rocker cover gasket has already been changed before.

I've attached photos. Maybe from that it's more obvious?

ts86, that was exactly the same problem i had at the exact location. I think it's not a problem except the dirty engine.

ts86 and Louie,

Well good news then - thanks for the updates, so it looks like just the O-ring to replace

Sorry for my misjudgement...
I think the diagnosis thus goes "oil inside cap: shaft seal", and "oil leaking from distributor: O-ring". The ones I've seen have had oil inside the cap - but obviously, that's not always going to be the case!

Cheers for the notes, Louie. I guess I had forgotten that thread!

-Alex

Thanks very much Alex. I've actually printed out your original post and put it into my car folder. It'll be useful if I ever have to later.

Is changing the O-ring REALLY REALLY easy then, seeing as I don't have to open the distributor up or anything?

ts86, that was exactly the same problem i had at the exact location. I think it's not a problem except the dirty engine.

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*phew* - thanks very much geom

:yeahthat: Nah you are un necessarily polluting by dumping Oil LOL. – It can run into the Bell house and take out your clutch if you park with the passenger side down hill – like the road’s normal camber!

ts86 said:

…Is changing the O-ring REALLY REALLY easy then, seeing as I don't have to open the distributor up or anything?

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Its really easy to change.

However, before you get the spanner out, you should mark the distributor’s angle in relation to the engine (scratch it) and note which way the rotor arm points. The distributor must go back exactly as It came out – or the Timing will be upset – assuming the timing is OK in the first place.

A picture from last time my distributor was out – also the thermostat is removed, as I was about to replace it.


When the 2 10MM Nuts are off, a gentle twist distributor and it will come out. There should be a small oil leak from the new hole, so have a rag ready. If no oil leak, the cam’s oil pipe may be blocked, and no oil is being fed into the upper section of the engine – Luke can tell you more about this – and what happens next .

Replace the O ring, Give the distributor a polish (optional), twist the rotor arm to the same angle, Marry up with the cam – maybe a little bit of twisting involved – the rotor arm may fit 180 degrees out, I’ve heard the engine will work OK if out of phase. Align the marks you made earlier and tighten (not too much) Hey presto – 1 less Oil leak LOL.

Regards All,

alexGS said:

Sorry for my misjudgement...
I think the diagnosis thus goes "oil inside cap: shaft seal", and "oil leaking from distributor: O-ring". The ones I've seen have had oil inside the cap - but obviously, that's not always going to be the case!

Cheers for the notes, Louie. I guess I had forgotten that thread!

-Alex

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EZ Alex - No need to apologise :spin:

Maybe your climate has a lot to do with which bit gives up first

- I agree with the diagnosis of which seal has gone. I’d add both could be shot – Oil leak inside and out – so check inside the distributor too.

Regards All,

Its really easy to change.

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Thanks very very much guys!

Now, the all important FIAT part number?

I'm definately going to give it a go - the worst is I'll mess the timing up, right? In which case I'll pay to get that fixed.

In fact, what other parts in that area could/should I replace? I'll probably change the cap again, what about the rotar arm? It's done 60k miles and I assume it has never been changed. Is it easy to replace while keeping the timing correct?

P.S. How do I award rep. - there's exclamation mark?

Hi Louie (and all ),

Looks like part isn't going to arrive at dealer till next week now. I've ordered part number 9943714, which seems correct as well when I asked the parts guy (the only thing main dealers are good for). Anyone found it to be a different part number?

It's brilliant you posted that image Louie. I now know what nuts I need to unscrew. When I had a look before I thought it was the two bolts on top, the ones in between engine block and distributor. What are those other bolts for anyway?

If I was a real mechanic then the Haynes manual would make more sense to me!

I think I've got the procedure correct in my head. If I disconnect the vacuum pipe, is it simply a matter of just putting back on afterwards? I ask, as a vacuum sounds special.

I really hope it goes smoothly for me. I will take photos as I go along. It would be good to get it out of the way and assume trouble free motoring for longer to come.

If there's any others bit of advice anyone can remember, then please shout it out. I won't have the part till Tuesday I think, and that's when I'll attempt.

Hi All,

ts86 said:

Looks like part isn't going to arrive at dealer till next week now. I've ordered part number 9943714, which seems correct as well when I asked the parts guy (the only thing main dealers are good for). Anyone found it to be a different part number?

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How much are you being charged for the part? My Eper says its £4.15 inc. VAT – which is six times what I paid. I’m not sure how to call up a picture of the part, and I can’t find the part TBH.

My filing system is about 5 months deep :rollyeyes: so I have little chance of finding it for you.

ts86 said:

…When I had a look before I thought it was the two bolts on top, the ones in between engine block and distributor. What are those other bolts for anyway?

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Good question – I’m not sure TBH.

ts86 said:

If I was a real mechanic then the Haynes manual would make more sense to me!

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I’m not so sure TBH I don’t rate it – LOL I’m only an enthuses – show me any other car and I’d soon be stumped.

ts86 said:

I think I've got the procedure correct in my head..

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ts86 said:

Assume I'm not a mechanic but can use a basic socket set.

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OK I think its better to remove the distributor completely and take the opportunity to check vacuum advance. Steps E and F ore optional, but good practice.

First of all, allow a good afternoon for the job – You don’t want to rush to finish as things easily go wrong. Start early if your working outdoors - you don’t want to run out of light. – then again – I took loads of pictures

This is exactly how I would do It,



Key
1 – cam Cover
2 – Cylinder head to distributor join
3 – Distributor
4 – distributor cap
5 – distributor cap retention clip (lower one not in view)
6 – vacuum advance diaphragm
7 – vacuum advance pipe
8 – distributor electrical connector block
9 – Distributor mountain nut and washer – (lower one not in view)

A. with ignition off at all times!!! And engine cold Spray nut and washer 9 with WD40 or other penetrating fluid. Do the lower one too. Put a rag below 2 as there should be a small oil leak when you remove 3.

B. Scribe a couple of scratches across area 2. – This will help you refit the distributor with the correct angle essential for the timing.


C. Unclip 5. and rest 4. out of the way, with all wires connected.



D. Note which way the rotor arm is pointing, but leave in place. It won’t nessesarrily be pointing the same way as mine pictured BTW.

E. Unplug 8.

F. Follow pipe 7. to the back of the engine and disconnect. Note the pipe is fixed at a right angle and simply pulls off.

Clean the end of the pipe, and try blowing down it gently – less effort then blowing up a balloon. You should be able to blow a tiny amount, then no more. If this is the case the vacuum advance pipe and diaphragm are good.

If you can blow continuously, inspect the pipe for holes. Try removing the other end, blocking it and blowing again. If you can still blow, the pipe needs replacing. Try sucking too, if the pipe collapses it will also need replacing.

If the pipe is good, clean the outside as any oil on it will eat at the pipe and shorten its life.

Hmm it the pipe is good, but no resistance when connected to 6, 6 will need replacing. There is a chance both 6 and 7 could be bad, but your not that unlucky are you?

G. Have the rag ready, loosen nut 9, and the lower one about a turn, twit the distributor to break the seal, then remove the lower nut, put the nut and washer safe, hold the distributor 3 and remove the upper nut (put safe too). Twist 3 and should come away in your hand. pit it somewhere safe and claen, and turn your attention to the leaking oil.



Key2
1-0 – Coolant pipe on thermostat
2-0 - Cylinder head to distributor join

H. Don’t let oil drip onto the coolant pipe below – if it does – clean it off. I moved the rags for this picture BTW.

If there is no oil leek – this could mean the cam is running dry, perhaps due to a blocked oil pipe, which will need further investigation. It’s a separate job, which doesn’t need distributor off, and will need at least a cam cover gasket at least.

H. Cleans the old o-ring gasket off face 1-2. I used WD40, sprayed onto a rag to avoid getting any inside the cam. – If there are any stubborn bits I’d say don’t scrape off with anything metal as scratching this face will affect the future seal. If any bits fall inside the cam hole, fish them out, as they won’t do any good in there.

I. Blue Peter time – make 2-1 look like 2-2, using same method as in H.

J. Check inside the distributor for oil. – If you see any – check here https://www.fiatforum.com/showthread.php?t=24730- as the distributor inner seal needs replacing. My local FIAT dealer couldn’t supply the part so I haven’t done it yet. Mine were both OK, but I was going to do them both on the spare distributor. I’m not sure if the distributor will need dismantling like this. if it dose, make sure all the components go back in the same order.

K. Fit the new O-ring to the clean distributor – yes it will go on it sits in the grove. Make sure it isn’t twisted as it will probably compromise the seal. I fitted the gasket dry in that I didn’t lubricate it.



L. Now your ready to refit the distributor. Twist the rotor arm back to the original position. It can go back 180 degrees the wrong way, or the right way.

M. Marry the distributor to face, may need the distributor body and / or rotor arm twisting, but it will be firmer than when you removed it due to the new O-ring gasket.

N. Now align the scribed marks from B., replace the washers and nuts 9 – don’t over tighten them (hard to explain how tight TBH ).

O. Replace both ends of 7, plug in 8, refit 4, remove your rags, clean where old oil leak ran down bell house, check for spare parts that should have been refitted and start her up.

Take a short drive and check for leaks. – check after a day or too and you should be OK. And not see https://www.fiatforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4618 - but it the

What you reckon Alex, Chas, whoever is still reading – have I missed anything.

That’s a long post – eat your hart out Mr gs and Mr 45S LOL.

Not sure If I’ve clarified or confused things TBH.

Regards All,

P.S. bigger pictures are in my gallery