are re profiled cams worth the money? can you get the same gains as a new set
ps never use piper cams :bang:
ps never use piper cams :bang:
re profiled cams
- Thread starter tim1989
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re profiled cams
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In my opinion... the cam profile changes on their own would deliver little, engine mods of that type need to be done in conjunction with others so they work together. The risk is that you end up making the engine great for racing but not great for road use.
OP
OP
its having other work done.
heads having All casting marks removed & smoothed
Valve throat pockets smoothed & widened
Inlet dividers knife-edged
Valve guides re-profiled
Inlet Ports matched to gaskets
Exhaust Ports Opened & Smoothed
Combustion chambers polished
Valve faces cleaned & polished
Machined three angle valve seats & Valves
Re-faced (skimmed)
Chemically cleaned & rebuilt
New valve stem oil seal
Valves lapped-in
throttle body porting and polishing
inlet manifolds getting match to the head aswell.
and iv got daves supersprint manifold and sports cat
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Blueprinted... But cams are the only real tuning move, the head refacing could be classed as a slight compression rise I guess. Really on top of all you have had / are having done you need to stuff more air in there, add some extra fuel & get it out of the cylinders faster, kind of does that having the porting done, but a big valve head & a straight through exhaust would help (but probably get you pulled by Plod every day)
But cams are the only real tuning move, the head refacing could be classed as a slight compression rise I guess. Really on top of all you have had / are having done you need to stuff more air in there, add some extra fuel & get it out of the cylinders faster, kind of does that having the porting done, but a big valve head & a straight through exhaust would help (but probably get you pulled by Plod every day)
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already got a single box exhaustBlueprinted...
but your inlet manifold is plastic
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i thought that but lee said he should still be able to drill it
dont give it to anyone lee knows, it wont get done for years
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sounds expensive! ill have a word with the guy doing the work tho
sediciRich
Member
ps never use piper cams
Nonsense!
Basically not possible with 16v FIRE head. Have you ever looked at one? There are very few ways of increasing efficiency of this head. Very little redundant material.
sediciRich
Member
100% true these heads are rubbish built purely for their road car spec, even highly modified and tested pick up only 1cfm. They have tiny ports with a terrible side draft design. The SOHC is superior for modification.
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funny how iv been told by loads of people that they got ****ed around by them aswell! bunch of :tosser:
tell the whole story then so people know its the customer service you are on about
OP
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Cams are on the way back got half a mm more lift and 10 degrees more duration
Ultimately you want the intake valve opened as long as possible and want to delay the exhaust valve opening until the piston has started to enter the blow phase. Timing is critical. If the intake is not open for sufficiently long a time or the exhaust valves open early much of the power from the engine will be gone.
An average family car will typically have a cam duration of 250 degrees or lower. By grinding down each side of the lobe on the cam you can decrease the duration. As a general rule of thumb upto 265 degrees gives a good balance of extra power and maintains smooth running and is most suited to a standard engine.
Moving up to 290 degrees we have what is called a fast road cam. This will give a noticable increase in top end power but you will start to experience a slightly lumpy idle. Economy will also be impaired but in most cases you will be within your cars emission standards. This is what most readers of cartuningtips.com will be aiming at.
For ultimate performance you can increase the duration to 320 degrees. Tickover will be very irratic, the car is unlikely to pass any kind of emission check and your fuel economy will not exist!
When cams are marked “for competition use only” it will indicate that the cam is prone to excessive wear. This wear effectively reduces the lift and sucks your power. A competition cam is replaced at frequent intervals and is not something the average car owner wants to be doing.
Honda have a dual cam lobe which allows a profile for high rpm use and another for low engine speeds giving a much wider power band and good fuel economy.
source http://www.cartuningtips.com/16-fastroad-cams
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spoke to some one tonight and they said you will never get it to run right with a reground cam as you wont know where the flats are because of the way the cam carrier is all closed in, you have to buy them new
OP
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Paid for and got um now
