Technical where is the speedo reading from??

[Deckchair5]

Yes you could say voltage doesn't mean much if it hasn't got the amps to back it up. Power =V x I and all that stuff. The alternator voltage regulator can be doing it's best to maintain steady voltage but without sufficent current it can't supply the umph to power everything. Steely's doesn't even pass the static tests

A current induction clamp is better for other reasons too, when you disconnect the battery you reset the ecu so it loses all its refined fuel trims etc. But they're not very accurate if you're looking for less than 1amp as in a current drain as they will often measure up to 600amps

Thing to watch if you're doing power off current drain checks using the induction clamp is that the Stilo, like many newer cars, latches on and keeps a lot of circuits live for some considerable time after turning off the ignition. Even waiting an hour you'd think would be enough but when you do something like open the door then a lot of circuits become live again. Ha! Back to square one

 

[Argonought]

Steely's doesn't even pass the static tests

Well it did back at post #46 (very important to keep within a good reference frame).

Very tricky to know if a voltage drop (load/alternator) generates the problem or if the problem itself generates the load :chin:

One thing's for certain though - those old analogue meters were so much more useful for showing up voltage/current fluctuations

 

[Deckchair5]

Well it did back at post #46

Yes and it didn't sound too bad back there did it.
But now we have MOVIES
Now we can see what's going on and it's a horror

 

[Greggers]

Steely,

A while back you mentioned that your code reader made your car go nuts when you plug it up to OBD port on your Stilo. Mine did the same but I've found out what the problem is...

My code reader is a U581 version which handles multiple OBDII protocols, when you first turn it on and attempt to connect, it rns through the different protocols until it finds the one that works for the Stilo, which happens to be KWP2000. The problem is, the testing of the other protocols send the Stilo nuts and starts the "Loose Connection" and "ABS/ASR" warnings etc.

What I did to stop the car having a hissy fit was to make my own cable to connect between the OBDII cable and the hand held unit. This cable only has the pins relevent to KWP2000 connected and hence stops the car seeing the attempts of the other protocols. Since doing this, my U1601 fault code has disappeared and I can now get live data without worrying about what I'm doing to the car

For your info, the OBD socket uses ports 4, 5 ,7, 15 and 16 for the KWP2000 protocol. Obviously the OBD plug will be the reverse image of the attached picture if you try to wire up your own cable conector.

Greggers

 

[yellowstilo]

pin 15 is the L-line and doesn't have to be connected because it isn't used with the KWP2000 protocol .

 

[Greggers]

pin 15 is the L-line and doesn't have to be connected because it isn't used with the KWP2000 protocol .

I believe that it is part of the KWP2000 protocol but isn't necessarily used by all vehicles that support KWP2000. It's used on older cars that require the ECU to be "woken up" before it starts sending data.

I figure it's better to wire it up than not...

 

[Steely]

Cheers dude! will take that into account,

right update,

alt didnt help, neither did new batt, so its a short somewhere, ive been playing today, and hopefully on my way yo sorting it out,,,,

the only other thing ive found out is, everyone going on about how hard it is tho change the passenger headlight bulb, 10 mins max, battery out , 2 bolt holding fuse box /battery box in, move wires out the way ,lift out box, jobs a good-un..

 

[Greggers]

No worries. It might be worth you giving it a go as after I did mine, I suddenly got rid of the U1601 error which is to do with the CAN line errors caused by the code reader and I found out that my variator might have an issue (p1653), which would explain some of my issues at the moment!

Maybe you might get some sort of answer to the problems you're facing if you give it a go.

Good luc, Steely!

 

[yellowstilo]

is that rust i see on the picture of the the junction box on top of the battery?
Rust means corrosion = bad contact!

 

[Steely]

is that rust i see on the picture of the the junction box on top of the battery?
Rust means corrosion = bad contact!

nope that be copper slip!

 

[Argonought]

Ben, nice colourful Stilo you have there

Bit concerned about the money you're spending on alternators and batteries though

Do you not think it might have been better to have invested in a current induction clamp (around £50 I think) and tried some of the tests I suggested :chin:

Anyway - good luck with it

 

[Steely]

yes i agreee argo, but oh well,.,

right bit of an update, im at the end of my tether now with it, all under the bonnet is sorted, not related, everything tested, everything ok

the car has no ability to lock the doors, internally or by keyfob, the indicators flash but doors do not lock, had all the fusebox out cleaned every contact going, even the body computer part on the back of the fuse box,

the errors im getting mostly now, including the inability to lock the poxy doors,
u1600
u1700
u1702
and processor fault ??
airbag failure,
rear parking sensor failure
abs/asr failure
the mileage has gone to ------- instead of 50012 as is the temperature, now at -40
the rear inside light above the rear seats wont come on at the same time as the front one, it works but no whilst opening the doors,
the door puddle lights cant make their mind uip on what to do stay on or off,


im stuck the cars in bits, all sills to wireing are out as is all the dash,

aae in donny say they can put it on diag but cant guarantee finding anything
fiat in donny said they can do the same but not until the 15 of sept,?? a **** take In my opinion, and 70 quid for the first inspection, then possibly more needed... robbing *&^%^&$s.
and 2 auto leccys have said they wont work on it since its a stilo


so all good..


anyone got any advice


all great fun on a saturday night, ...........................................not!

oh yes just to add, the car drives fine, everything like the idicatiors/lights and so on work, externally, but the radio turns its self on and off every 5-6 seconds..

 

[Deckchair5]

Dearie me.
All those U--- fault codes are can bus related
U1600 is aerial key immobilser
U1700 is can bus comms error
and the outside temp sensor resorts to -40 if it loses connection- can bus again

They all point to canbus in D4 connector but as you've had that disconnected then that would make sense.

Thiink you're going to need a proxi alignment to bring all these systems back into line

Be interesting to know what cycles every every 6 secs

 

[Steely]

cheers decks!,

is there any way i can do a reset ?? for the body computer side?? before i bite the bullet??

 

[Deckchair5]

Some fault warnings only clear after a number of clean starts, airbag is one of those. If the can lines systems still can't talk to one another afterwards then you'll need to make sure everything is reconnected and get it proxi aligned at the dealers or someone who has similar equipment. It only takes 15mins so it shouldn't be too bad costwise but it would be nice to anchor down the "every 6 second" fault first

What you're doing is very advanced and you're in uncharted waters so we can't really advise very well from a distance but keep posting up and we'll chirp in with anything useful we might know. Pictures are great too for any other adventurers going down that way

Me? I've got a snapped handbrake cable to fix on a Clio today, now that's REALLY boring

 

[Steely]

Right spent an hour doing more electrical testing these are the results,: the multimeter is set on com/fused 10 amp dc ,.

bonnet popped and just a test with neg off and drainage 0.68amp

so decided to go venturing,

disconnected black connector to the right top corner of the body comp, suprisingly dropped the drainage to 0.31amp

as soon as its connected back up it goes bak to 0.68amp

next one is the fuse to the +30 mph auto door closure, pull this out and it drops to 0.25amp

the biggest shock off all wa the removal of the blue loom block to the back of the body computer, it gave off 13.54amp

all i could put this down to was the body computer, not switching off when the ignition is turned off, i dont know!!

slowly getting somewhere i think, and just to add its copperslip on the terminals not rust!,

does that show any alarm bells decks?

the only other thig i can add is that the drainage goes to 0.01 when i remove the grey clip with 2 red/live wires on it , right next to the top relay under the diag socket, live feed to the fusebox?? (see pic 4)

 

[Deckchair5]

Ah Now you're thinking electrically.It's an electrical fault so you should be able to find it by electrical means without ripping huge amounts of stuff out

Just remind me again, this is a 1.6 right? Any alarms? Electrical mods?

0.68 amp wouldn't be too bad if there are still some items that haven't shut down yet as part of the normal latching circuits

0.31 amp is good and normal sounding for an "everything switched off and shut down" residual current. Mine does about 0.36amp in that state

13amp through the body computer is frightening. I'd want to narrow that down and start pulling fuses on the body computer to see which circuit was causing the drain there.

Have you had a weird stuff just prior to this like doors not opening, windows opening on their own, puddle lights etc?

 

[Argonought]

13amp through the body computer is frightening. I'd want to narrow that down and start pulling fuses on the body computer to see which circuit was causing the drain there.

This occurred when Ben disconnected a loom so I'd say it can be ignored.

Ben, you've got me a bit confused on this now Are you trying to trace the fault you started with or are you trying to trace the faults you've put on the car (as Deck's says - hopefully resolved with a proxy align - unless something's still not connected correctly).

Originally, you had a change of load on the car when the fault occurred (causing higher currents in one of the circuits) so why are you checking the static current ?

Or has that fault disappeared anyway now

 

[Steely]

yup its a 1.6, doors wont lock or unlock, dash still goes wild, windows will go up and down sometimes, sometimes its delayed, 2 or 3 seconds after pressing the button, , the puddle lights will come on about 10 seconds after opening the door,


The only mod ive fitted is a subwoofer with a switched remote live to the back of the stereo, but all this has been taken out to make sure its not related

plus the interioir light will come on itself after all doors closed, randomly , also to add the rear interior light about the rear seats wont come on at the same time as the front one.. yet it still works if you press the buttons on it....


cheers for the help decks!, i know its most probably getting boring now but its greatly appreciated!


To argo, no the fault is still there, the reason im checking the static charge, is because the battery is running flat overnight, and hopegfully this is connected to the random faults on the dash!

 

[Argonought]

To argo, no the fault is still there, the reason im checking the static charge, is because the battery is running flat overnight, and hopegfully this is connected to the random faults on the dash!

Hadn't realized that was the case.
Certainly makes sense to find out what's flattening your battery.

Just a small point. That copper slip smeared around the battery positive block of connections.

Now I haven't checked buy I always thought this was insulated thus providing a load sensing circuit :chin: I could easily be wrong but it might be worth verifying.