Technical Wheel alignment knocked out by accident

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Technical Wheel alignment knocked out by accident

Joined
Aug 16, 2018
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62
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69
Hi,
somebody last week backed into my son's Punto while in the parking lot. Their bumper went straight into the driver side tire and now the wheels are no longer aligned. It does not look like a big job so I just wanted some feedback from the experts on the boards.

I attach a picture of the tie rod which looks to me like it was bent by the impact.

What else should I look into?

Thanks in advance,
Conrad
PS - I got a response from a different thread where I did see a discussion about wheel alignment: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/fiat-500-sport-steering-wheel-alignment.514133/post-4840671 but wanted to also add it to the correct board.
 
Model
Punto JetBlack
Year
2014

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I bought this on eBay

View attachment 476528

It's designed for the original type of band. The pincher on the ends crimps while the bit in the middle, which retracts when the handles are moved apart, extends and squashes the crimp to make it really secure. In operation it's rather poor due to not being made very well. The central "pusher" doesn't retract enough. I've seen a couple of professional branded tools in workshops which work on the same principle and work very well - at around three or four times the price!
I have some like that aswell, they work well.

I think this is the tool that you were thinking about? it kind of winds the metal cable tie in order to tighten it.

Screenshot 2025-11-16 192912.png
 
I have some like that aswell, they work well.

I think this is the tool that you were thinking about? it kind of winds the metal cable tie in order to tighten it.

View attachment 476532
Damn it, I've got one of those! No idea where it is though :rolleyes: It was part of the kit when I bought the first tool I showed you. I never bought the ties to go with it as I wanted a tool to tackle the original type ties which come with the boot kits. The one I was talking about in my friends VW garage was not that one but an "industrial" version of the type which crimps the type of band which comes with the boot kits. It had similar "pliers" type handles but also a screwed central "pusher" to flatten the crimp.
 
Damn it, I've got one of those! No idea where it is though :rolleyes: It was part of the kit when I bought the first tool I showed you. I never bought the ties to go with it as I wanted a tool to tackle the original type ties which come with the boot kits. The one I was talking about in my friends VW garage was not that one but an "industrial" version of the type which crimps the type of band which comes with the boot kits. It had similar "pliers" type handles but also a screwed central "pusher" to flatten the crimp.
Ah i see. Those crimp pliers are 2-3 times more expensive, so i gave them a miss.

You should get some metal cable ties they're excellent for household duties. The plastic cable ties snap sooner or later particularly outdoors, but the metal ones never do from what i've seen.
 
I bought this on eBay

View attachment 476528

It's designed for the original type of band. The pincher on the ends crimps while the bit in the middle, which retracts when the handles are moved apart, extends and squashes the crimp to make it really secure. In operation it's rather poor due to not being made very well. The central "pusher" doesn't retract enough. I've seen a couple of professional branded tools in workshops which work on the same principle and work very well - at around three or four times the price!
Now it was bothering me that I didn't know where the others tool was. Here it is,

PXL_20251116_200641736.jpg


and indeed it's the one you show. It does look like it would work well. It was "hiding" in the back of the drawer, behind the biggest Stilson I own. Probably been there for years!
 
I tend to tighten the metal cable ties with pliers but they don't ever do the job that well, so i should buy some of these!

The bumper on my EVO is secured underneath with about 4 metal cable ties, no fear of them ever breaking but they could be tighter :D
As that first tool I showed doesn't work very well I've reverted back to end cutters with the sharp edges buffed down so they don't cut anything.

PXL_20251116_202035691.jpg


After crimping I just give the crimp a bit of a bash with a hammer to flatten it. As long as you don't "Welly" it too hard it doesn't seem to cut the rubber under it.
 
As that first tool I showed doesn't work very well I've reverted back to end cutters with the sharp edges buffed down so they don't cut anything.

View attachment 476538

After crimping I just give the crimp a bit of a bash with a hammer to flatten it. As long as you don't "Welly" it too hard it doesn't seem to cut the rubber under it.

When i saw your original tool i looked at the length of it and thought leverage might be a problem, but figured you had a work around!

I had to buy a second crimp tool that had longer handles than my first one, i've still got the first one, it was only around £5 so not worth sending back. :)
 
Just an update on progress... got the inner tie rod off. :)
But they sent me the wrong part. Looks the same just mine is a male and the one they sent is female. Added pictures just to show how it's going.
 

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So difficult to advise on this from my living room seat. However I've seen damage like this before and each part needs to be separately assessed. I'm tight fisted when it comes to spending money so will only replace parts that obviously need it. One I did had almost identical damage to the tie rod. couldn't see any obvious damage to anything else so I replaced just the tie rod and track rod end, adjusted the toe took it for a long drive - about an hour on various different roads and speeds - It drove nicely and subsequently showed no strange tyre wear the next time I saw it about a year later. I don't see any reason, from your pictures, as to why I'd do any different here. Steering racks are remarkably tough and, especially if the shock was mostly applied to it along the axis of the rack, no reason why it would need to be changed. Of course check it for smooth operation lock to lock and for play in the bushing on the N/S end and against the pinion and bush on the pinion end.

Whatever you decide, the only way to be really sure it's ok is to get it on a chassis bench, like a Hunter, and check all the angles. A check like this, if nothing needs done except maybe a wee "tweek" to toe settings, will probably be in the region of £80? Been quite a while since I've had one done.

Somewhere on the forum I've done a description, with illustrations, of my home made tool for checking toe - If I can find it I'll post a link.
Would love to see your home made tracking tool , I'm looking at making one too
 
Would love to see your home made tracking tool , I'm looking at making one too
Here's a link to the post I made about it some years ago. Hope you enjoy reading about it. Any questions just ask. It looks pretty rudimentary, even "agricultural"? but, as long as you take care checking the car over before you start with the tool, setting it up and placing it, the results are excellent.

 
Here's a link to the post I made about it some years ago. Hope you enjoy reading about it. Any questions just ask. It looks pretty rudimentary, even "agricultural"? but, as long as you take care checking the car over before you start with the tool, setting it up and placing it, the results are excellent.

That's brilliant thank you, very kind of you to go to the trouble, much appreciated
 
You're very welcome. This sort of "manual" job is what I'm best at and enjoy. Electronics? not so much 😜 Hope it's given you food for thought?
Hi , yes absolutely, I'm definitely a points and condensers type of man ☺️.
I used the string method for wheel alignment with good results, but I would like to re- create something like the old tracking ' sticks' . I will have a read of your post in a little while 👍
 
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