Technical Valves/head
- Thread starter JakeF
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Technical Valves/head
Wow Chris never seen one of those before I will have to get searching. I have tended to use the screwdriver thing on the flywheel or if the flywheel is not fitted a block of wood between the crankshaft weight and the crankcase inner wall . If you do this however make sure that you use a block that will spread the load on the ally inner wall as I have heard of the required force busting the crankcase.
Some updates. Had a good day at the garage. Got the top fitted, dismantled the clucth(needs a new disc).
I've got three questions:
1. Can I change the flywheel side oil seal at this stage(pic 1)? Or do I need to unbolt more?Will it come out if I use a small scredriver.
2. Adjusted the valves to 0.15, in the pic 2 the distributor is towards the block when the valves which I hold with my hand have their clearance. And the other valves does not have clearence. Right?
Im asking this because I first adjusted the other cylinder(rear cylinder),distributor at same place and when I turned the engine 360 degrees they were very loose.
3. Can I start the engine for test its proper running etcetc without stand? I mean its standing on wood or something.
I've got three questions:
1. Can I change the flywheel side oil seal at this stage(pic 1)? Or do I need to unbolt more?Will it come out if I use a small scredriver.
2. Adjusted the valves to 0.15, in the pic 2 the distributor is towards the block when the valves which I hold with my hand have their clearance. And the other valves does not have clearence. Right?
Im asking this because I first adjusted the other cylinder(rear cylinder),distributor at same place and when I turned the engine 360 degrees they were very loose.
3. Can I start the engine for test its proper running etcetc without stand? I mean its standing on wood or something.
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Jake,
My answers -
1) If you have the engine stripped to this state it is an easy job to remove the flywheel-side crankshaft support and replace the oil seal on the bench. You'll be able to inspect and clean the main bearing on that end of the crankshaft as well. Make sure you support the crankshaft well, though if you have the pistons/rods/cylinders installed this will be more than enough support.
2) At top dead centre the engine cycle will either be at the end of the compression stroke or at the end of the exhaust stroke. If at the compression/power interface the valves will be tightly shut against their seats and the rockers will be loose and as you've said, this is the part of the cycle where the gap is adjusted. Typical clearance with the engine dead cold is 0.15mm (0.0059") for both inlet and exhaust. Once you've done one cylinder, rotate the crank 360 degrees and do the other one. I usually leave the engine at TDC so I can attach the plug leads correctly.
3) Even when well balanced, these engine jump around a lot. They are not anywhere as smooth as motorbike engines of similar capacity. I'd be tying it down well on something very sturdy before firing it up or it might chase you around the shed
Keep up the good work.
Merry Xmas,
Chris
My answers -
1) If you have the engine stripped to this state it is an easy job to remove the flywheel-side crankshaft support and replace the oil seal on the bench. You'll be able to inspect and clean the main bearing on that end of the crankshaft as well. Make sure you support the crankshaft well, though if you have the pistons/rods/cylinders installed this will be more than enough support.
2) At top dead centre the engine cycle will either be at the end of the compression stroke or at the end of the exhaust stroke. If at the compression/power interface the valves will be tightly shut against their seats and the rockers will be loose and as you've said, this is the part of the cycle where the gap is adjusted. Typical clearance with the engine dead cold is 0.15mm (0.0059") for both inlet and exhaust. Once you've done one cylinder, rotate the crank 360 degrees and do the other one. I usually leave the engine at TDC so I can attach the plug leads correctly.
3) Even when well balanced, these engine jump around a lot. They are not anywhere as smooth as motorbike engines of similar capacity. I'd be tying it down well on something very sturdy before firing it up or it might chase you around the shed
Keep up the good work.
Merry Xmas,
Chris
Jake,
My answers -
1) If you have the engine stripped to this state it is an easy job to remove the flywheel-side crankshaft support and replace the oil seal on the bench. You'll be able to inspect and clean the main bearing on that end of the crankshaft as well. Make sure you support the crankshaft well, though if you have the pistons/rods/cylinders installed this will be more than enough support.
2) At top dead centre the engine cycle will either be at the end of the compression stroke or at the end of the exhaust stroke. If at the compression/power interface the valves will be tightly shut against their seats and the rockers will be loose and as you've said, this is the part of the cycle where the gap is adjusted. Typical clearance with the engine dead cold is 0.15mm (0.0059") for both inlet and exhaust. Once you've done one cylinder, rotate the crank 360 degrees and do the other one. I usually leave the engine at TDC so I can attach the plug leads correctly.
3) Even when well balanced, these engine jump around a lot. They are not anywhere as smooth as motorbike engines of similar capacity. I'd be tying it down well on something very sturdy before firing it up or it might chase you around the shed
Keep up the good work.
Merry Xmas,
Chris
1. Ok, so you mean those six bolts off and the supports comes off?
2. Just started to wonder, in the picture the syl no.1 is firing(compression stroke) and the cyl 2 is at end of the exhaust stroke. I now have cyl 2 rockers loose and cylinder 1 are tight(no clearence I mean). I have done it wrong way or missing something?
In my first post I told that I adjusted first the cylinder no 1(on compression stroke) and turned the engine 360 to adjust cylinder 2. At once I noticed that cylinder 1 rockers were very loose(should have no clearance, at change over)? Any difference in the adjustment procedure if the rocker shaft been off?
I'll visit the garage today for more accurate checking..Sorry for the stupid(maybe) questions
3 Maybe I fit the engine back to trunk before starting
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Ok, now I'm getting it.
When the distributor is towards the block and I start to turn the engine, the intake valve at cylinder 1 starts to open. So the cylinder no 2 is at compression stroke and cylinder 1 at change over. I haven't removed the distributor yet. Is this ok, or do I need to do some mods?
Is it somekind of rule that in this case the cyl no 1 should fire? I marked the leads when I took the spark plug leads off.
Thanks.
When the distributor is towards the block and I start to turn the engine, the intake valve at cylinder 1 starts to open. So the cylinder no 2 is at compression stroke and cylinder 1 at change over. I haven't removed the distributor yet. Is this ok, or do I need to do some mods?
Is it somekind of rule that in this case the cyl no 1 should fire? I marked the leads when I took the spark plug leads off.
Thanks.
1. Ok, so you mean those six bolts off and the supports comes off?
2. Just started to wonder, in the picture the syl no.1 is firing(compression stroke) and the cyl 2 is at end of the exhaust stroke. I now have cyl 2 rockers loose and cylinder 1 are tight(no clearence I mean). I have done it wrong way or missing something?
In my first post I told that I adjusted first the cylinder no 1(on compression stroke) and turned the engine 360 to adjust cylinder 2. At once I noticed that cylinder 1 rockers were very loose(should have no clearance, at change over)? Any difference in the adjustment procedure if the rocker shaft been off?
I'll visit the garage today for more accurate checking..Sorry for the stupid(maybe) questions
3 Maybe I fit the engine back to trunk before starting
1. Yep - those six bolts.
2. From your last post, you are getting the hang of it. Rotate the crankshaft slowly a couple of times and watch the rotor and the valve gear and you'll soon see what is happening.
3. I strapped my engine to a timber cradle which I secured to the garage floor with weights. It started well and didn't move much. There are plenty of youtube videos showing restorers starting these motors out of the car on some sort of support - whatever you do, just be careful.
Chris
Chris thanks again! Yeah, I just looked too carefully the distributor position and not the valvels. You just have to be accurate when mount the plug lead to the distributor cap(if they are removed).
So when setting ingition is the only way to controll witch cylinder is firing to take the valve cover off(if you dont know)?
Got the flywheel side oil seal changed, it was quite easy job! Now I need to find a flywheel locker and to get the big oil slinger bolt off, it's bloody tight! Maybe a compressor and air gun will solve this.
Merry x-mas to everyone, I'll have a cristmas break from the garage, tomorrow again
So when setting ingition is the only way to controll witch cylinder is firing to take the valve cover off(if you dont know)?
Got the flywheel side oil seal changed, it was quite easy job! Now I need to find a flywheel locker and to get the big oil slinger bolt off, it's bloody tight! Maybe a compressor and air gun will solve this.
Merry x-mas to everyone, I'll have a cristmas break from the garage, tomorrow again
Yep - it's the easiest way. Install the rocker cover last of all after you've set the timing, checked the clearances and connected the plug leads.
Merry Xmas,
Chris
Right hand metric thread. I didn't find any LH threads during my rebuild.
Chris
Chris
