Technical Valve Trouble

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Technical Valve Trouble

Hutbed

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Jan 26, 2019
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Hello all, sorry I've been gone a while. Just had my '72 500L exported to Florida and drove her about 220km in a day, then felt like she needed a valve adjustment. Her original 499 engine is installed at the moment, and I made very slight adjustments to 0.15mm valve clearance as discussed in other threads. She performed wonderfully for about 6km, then gradually made more and more valve noise. This is how it looks at the moment. Note the rods at the right side of the rockers- the front two are snug, the rear two are quite loose. Also the bent-looking angle from the second one (from the front)... am I in big trouble here?
 

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Might be worth removing the rocker shaft and checking the fit of the two studs going into the cylinder head. I have had some strip the thread in the past. If so it is an easy fix with a helicoil. Also had exhaust valves burn out and regress into the head eliminating valve clearances.
 

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As David (Toshi) said, it is not uncommon for the rocker-shaft retaining studs to pull out of the head on the earlier 500s (curing that problem is how I met Joseph Nova---Texas500). I sent him a couple of the 'self-tapping steel inserts' to fit into the head and repair the thread in the head. That was 5 years ago and he has never had a moments trouble with it since. Check that this is the cause of the problem, and if it is, I will send you some of the inserts and the little tool to fit them.
 
Thanks gentlemen, I'll investigate soon and let you know.
 
Might be worth removing the rocker shaft and checking the fit of the two studs going into the cylinder head. I have had some strip the thread in the past. If so it is an easy fix with a helicoil. Also had exhaust valves burn out and regress into the head eliminating valve clearances.
You can actually see a gap between the bottom washer on the rear stud nut and the cylinder head.
 
This will be my first time removing the head- should I or should I not attempt it with the engine installed still?
 
It IS possible to remove/refit the head with the engine in-situ, but it is a darn sight easier with the engine on the bench (or rotisserie). The problem with removing the head with the engine still in the car is getting to all the cowling retaining bolts at the rear of the engine--especially if this is the first time of doing it. My advice would be to heave the bugger out and do it in comfort on the bench or engine stand. (aka rotisserie)
 
It IS possible to remove/refit the head with the engine in-situ, but it is a darn sight easier with the engine on the bench (or rotisserie). The problem with removing the head with the engine still in the car is getting to all the cowling retaining bolts at the rear of the engine--especially if this is the first time of doing it. My advice would be to heave the bugger out and do it in comfort on the bench or engine stand. (aka rotisserie)

I agree, it’s not like it’s a massive lump to drop out to be fair. You can guarantee there will be a bolt you can’t undue…..
 
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