Technical Uno 1.5 i.e injectors not opening.

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Technical Uno 1.5 i.e injectors not opening.

Dalleb1001

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Hello i have recently put a uno 1.5 i.e engine in my ritmo, but i can’t seem to get the injectors to open when cranking engine, i have checked wires from injectors to ecu and they are all fine, i have also pushed on one with at nail at the end at it splashed out with gas just fine so they aren’t stuck either. What could the problem be? Fuel pump relay maybe? Or even ecu?
 

bugsymike

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Hello i have recently put a uno 1.5 i.e engine in my ritmo, but i can’t seem to get the injectors to open when cranking engine, i have checked wires from injectors to ecu and they are all fine, i have also pushed on one with at nail at the end at it splashed out with gas just fine so they aren’t stuck either. What could the problem be? Fuel pump relay maybe? Or even ecu?
No chance it's an immobiliser issue not giving signal to injectors?
 
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Dalleb1001

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Maybe, but it’s been in a fiat ritmo before mine, engine was taken out from an uno back in the days. But where do it get the + power from? I only see it being connected to grounds on engine (at the valve cover). When injector geta direct + and - it opens just fine also
 

bugsymike

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Maybe, but it’s been in a fiat ritmo before mine, engine was taken out from an uno back in the days. But where do it get the + power from? I only see it being connected to grounds on engine (at the valve cover). When injector geta direct + and - it opens just fine also
The ECU has to give the signal for the injectors to open , did either of the Ritmos have immobilsers or chipped keys, if so you may have to change it all from the previous working car. Do you have access to the Multiscan program as that could tell you more.
My experience is 50 years of all types of vehicles in the motortrade, however I am sure there will be someone on this Forum with more specific knowledge of your vehicle.
 
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Dalleb1001

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The ECU has to give the signal for the injectors to open , did either of the Ritmos have immobilsers or chipped keys, if so you may have to change it all from the previous working car. Do you have access to the Multiscan program as that could tell you more.
My experience is 50 years of all types of vehicles in the motortrade, however I am sure there will be someone on this Forum with more specific knowledge of your vehicle.
There is no chipped keys or immobilizers involved👍🏼 But do you know how the ecu should be grounded? Or get +12v
 

bugsymike

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Sorry I didn't realise the age of it I assume it is late 1970s early 1980s, so basically it has a basic form of injection and a simple form of electronic ignition similar to Ford Fiesta and Escorts around then. So they use a distributor with a module to get a signal which is sent to a basic ECU which boosts the signal to fire the coil and also triggers the injection.
I may have some information is the uno1.5ie engine using a Bosch LE2/LU2 Jetronic ECU, please confirm. Mike
 
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Dalleb1001

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Sorry I didn't realise the age of it I assume it is late 1970s early 1980s, so basically it has a basic form of injection and a simple form of electronic ignition similar to Ford Fiesta and Escorts around then. So they use a distributor with a module to get a signal which is sent to a basic ECU which boosts the signal to fire the coil and also triggers the injection.
I may have some information is the uno1.5ie engine using a Bosch LE2/LU2 Jetronic ECU, please confirm. Mike
Yes, not sure if distributor and coil is sending signal to ecu as they are not connected, but yes. I changed the entire distributor and coil because module was not giving signal to distributor and therefor not sparking the spark plugs. But ECU Is a jetronic le2, i got a sheet with a diagramme for le2 but i was told it was not the exact one as it was for a turbo i.e and not just i.e
 
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Dalleb1001

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The new distributor i added is from a 1.3 ritmo where modul is on the side of it
 

bugsymike

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The new distributor i added is from a 1.3 ritmo where modul is on the side of it
Yes that is similar to the Fords of that era. They did pack up quite often and we would just change that module, they were readily available and had about 5 pins and you screwed it to the distributor. There should be information on how to test similar modules to yours on the internet.
The two photos I have included should expand enough for you to compare details with what you already have on the ECUs. According to my book the second photo should tell you which model and engine code had what ECU. I have the same details for the other ECUs listed. Mike
 

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Dalleb1001

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Yes that is similar to the Fords of that era. They did pack up quite often and we would just change that module, they were readily available and had about 5 pins and you screwed it to the distributor. There should be information on how to test similar modules to yours on the internet.
The two photos I have included should expand enough for you to compare details with what you already have on the ECUs. According to my book the second photo should tell you which model and engine code had what ECU. I have the same details for the other ECUs listed. Mike
Thanks! As far as i can tell the signal should be sent from pin 12 right? But would it still work for me with the injectors with the other distributor? The originally one came with a module in a system like this(not my car) look on the left side where coil and module is, that’s what i got when i bought the engine from the seller
 

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bugsymike

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Are you getting a good ignition spark (nice fat and blue) if the signal is weak from the module I don't know if that effects the fuel side of the ECU. Are there an electrical components you haven't swapped from the running donor, just in case there is a compatibility issue in the way they use the signals etc. Although 50 years servicing and repairing vehicles my auto electrical side is more general than specific.
 

bugsymike

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So is your ignition setup totally independent from the fuel side and working OK? The reason I ask is what is being used as a cranking signal for the ECU to trigger the fuel, 4 and 5 on the ECU pinout photo.
 
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Dalleb1001

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Yes the ignition is working all super fine, with a little fuel starter the engine runs just quickly before dying. And i don’t know what is used as cranking signal, i really feel like something is missing from what i got from the seller, but he says it’s complete setup so i must have put something wrong together.
 
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Dalleb1001

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So is your ignition setup totally independent from the fuel side and working OK? The reason I ask is what is being used as a cranking signal for the ECU to trigger the fuel, 4 and 5 on the ECU pinout photo.
I have this one wire i dont know whats for, coming out of the wire net just before the ecu
 

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bugsymike

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Yes the ignition is working all super fine, with a little fuel starter the engine runs just quickly before dying. And i don’t know what is used as cranking signal, i really feel like something is missing from what i got from the seller, but he says it’s complete setup so i must have put something wrong together.
So in effect it is totally separate? The ECU must have some form of cranking signal via 4 and 5 pins to trigger the fuel injectors when engine is running otherwise it would just keep pumping fuel all the time when ign. on.
If there is no Crank Position type sensor in the setup, then I would expect a connection to the distributor module.
When cranking and good spark, can you find a pin from the ignition module on the distributor that gives a signal when engine turning over ? If so I would be tempted to run a wire to the ECU pin 4 via a very low amp fuse or something else to protect the ECU. According to that photo it is less than .25 volt, see if anything like that is coming from the distributor module.
That one wire you have just mentioned, can you get a reading from it when cranking, if so it may be the answer. It must not be battery voltage! If in doubt put a low fuse in circuit!
 
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Dalleb1001

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So in effect it is totally separate? The ECU must have some form of cranking signal via 4 and 5 pins to trigger the fuel injectors when engine is running otherwise it would just keep pumping fuel all the time when ign. on.
If there is no Crank Position type sensor in the setup, then I would expect a connection to the distributor module.
When cranking and good spark, can you find a pin from the ignition module on the distributor that gives a signal when engine turning over ? If so I would be tempted to run a wire to the ECU pin 4 via a very low amp fuse or something else to protect the ECU. According to that photo it is less than .25 volt, see if anything like that is coming from the distributor module.
That one wire you have just mentioned, can you get a reading from it when cranking, if so it may be the answer. It must not be battery voltage! If in doubt put a low fuse in circuit!
I will try this, but what about when engine is running, is it the sensors controlling the injectors then?
 

bugsymike

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It must be measuring RPM as it shows on the photo I sent you readings for the injectors at different revs.
Just seen Pin 1 it says is speed signal sensor from ignition amplifier.
Assuming ECU data correct in photo I would check that you are getting all the correct readings at the ECU and work back from there. Mike
 
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Dalleb1001

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It must be measuring RPM as it shows on the photo I sent you readings for the injectors at different revs.
Just seen Pin 1 it says is speed signal sensor from ignition amplifier.
Assuming ECU data correct in photo I would check that you are getting all the correct readings at the ECU and work back from there. Mike
I can see my ecu have 35 pins actually
 

bugsymike

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I can see my ecu have 35 pins actually
So who ever told you originally "jetronic le2, i got a sheet with a diagramme for le2" was wrong then?
According to my book the 35 pin ECU has these details, see photo any good?
 

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