Technical Unhappy Engine

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Technical Unhappy Engine

ianhowe

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Jul 26, 2010
Messages
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Hi, new to the forum & hoping I can get some help.
Recently bought a 1970 L which i am told has a 594 126 engine fitted I knew it wasn’t running right when I bought it , It’s really rough on idle like it’s missing .
I have swapped electric fuel pump which I think was defective for a mechanical one, changed carb , plugs, distributor, distributor cap & coil. It takes a long time to start also needed choke .
 
Model
500L
Year
1970
Mileage
10000
My car was similar when I got it, but mine was supposed to be working.

First off, you will need choke to start if the engine is cold. That's nothing to worry about. I'd look at the distributor. Is the points gap right and is the timing good? I'm told the condenser can mess things up, though I wouldn't know how to check one.

If it does start, then you're getting fuel and a spark. A weak spark or a badly timed spark would be the first thing I'd check.
 
My car was similar when I got it, but mine was supposed to be working.

First off, you will need choke to start if the engine is cold. That's nothing to worry about. I'd look at the distributor. Is the points gap right and is the timing good? I'm told the condenser can mess things up, though I wouldn't know how to check one.

If it does start, then you're getting fuel and a spark. A weak spark or a badly timed spark would be the first thing I'd check.
Hi, thanks for the reply , the spark is pretty week, I have put a new coil on & new plugs, what would make the spark weak?
 
Hi, thanks for the reply , the spark is pretty week, I have put a new coil on & new plugs, what would make the spark weak?
A badly set points gap. When the points are closed, the coil is charged by the ignition current. When the points open, the energy in the coil causes a spark at the plugs. If the gap is set wrong, the points are not closed for long enough and less energy charges up the coil. You get a weak spark. If the points are too close, they only open for a short time and you only get a short spark.
 
Last edited:
Is it in the manual how to do the static timing ?
If you still have 'points' ignition,setting the 'static' timing is very easy with a small test-lamp. Connect the test lamp to the "DISTRIBUTOR" side of the coiland also to earth. Disconnect the 'king' lead from the coil---turn the ignition on and manually turn the engine over CLOCKWISE (big spanner on the dynamo nut is the easiest way). The test-lamp should illuminate when the points open---at 10deg.BTDC. Ifthe timing is out, turn the distributor clockwise to RETARD the ignition and anti-clockwise to ADVANCE the ignition point. Once you have adjusted the distributor (if required) continue to turn the engine over until you can re-check that the timing is correct. Alternatively, set the engine to the correct timing marks and move the distributor as required to get the timing point correct. Disconnect the test-lamp, turn off the ignition and re-connect the 'king' lead. Checking that the tappet settings are correct would also be a very wise move---the 500 is renowned for them closing up---this would prevent full compression being achieved and lead to poor running and starting
 
A badly set points gap. When the points are closed, the coil is charged by the ignition current. When the points open, the energy in the coil causes a spark at the plugs. If the gap is set wrong, the points are not closed enough and less energy charges up the coil. You get a weak spark. If the points are too closed, they only open for a short time and you only get a short spark.
Hi , thank you for the advice ,
If you still have 'points' ignition,setting the 'static' timing is very easy with a small test-lamp. Connect the test lamp to the "DISTRIBUTOR" side of the coiland also to earth. Disconnect the 'king' lead from the coil---turn the ignition on and manually turn the engine over CLOCKWISE (big spanner on the dynamo nut is the easiest way). The test-lamp should illuminate when the points open---at 10deg.BTDC. Ifthe timing is out, turn the distributor clockwise to RETARD the ignition and anti-clockwise to ADVANCE the ignition point. Once you have adjusted the distributor (if required) continue to turn the engine over until you can re-check that the timing is correct. Alternatively, set the engine to the correct timing marks and move the distributor as required to get the timing point correct. Disconnect the test-lamp, turn off the ignition and re-connect the 'king' lead. Checking that the tappet settings are correct would also be a very wise move---the 500 is renowned for them closing up---this would prevent full compression being achieved and lead to poor running and starting
hi, followed your advice & today I have a running flora . Thank you
 
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