Technical Turn key - only fuel pump comes on

[Shylo1988]

Hello everyone. Probably a basic electrical issue but, being a newbie, I am stumped. My 1975 Spider 1800 was running pretty well until I installed a new starter and alternator. I also installed a "brown wire fix". All connections seem to be intact. However, when I turn the key the only thing that happens is the fuel pump engages. Battery is fine. I cleaned the battery ground. Possibly a fuse? The fuse for the ignition coil (25A) seems to be fine since it was a few months ago before I installed the new starter and alternator. Thank you!!!!!

 

[bugsymike]

Hello everyone. Probably a basic electrical issue but, being a newbie, I am stumped. My 1975 Spider 1800 was running pretty well until I installed a new starter and alternator. I also installed a "brown wire fix". All connections seem to be intact. However, when I turn the key the only thing that happens is the fuel pump engages. Battery is fine. I cleaned the battery ground. Possibly a fuse? The fuse for the ignition coil (25A) seems to be fine since it was a few months ago before I installed the new starter and alternator. Thank you!!!!!

When you fitted the starter is it possible a small wire dropped off or was fitted to the wrong terminal.
Sometimes the alternator feed wire is on the same post as the live main wire for the starter. Worth checking.
Another point I have found is the aluminium fuses in the fuse holders corrode and look OK but don't pass power and a quick twist of the individual fuses can show it up. It was common on main beam fuses etc.

 

[ZaphodB]

My 1975 Spider 1800 was running pretty well until I installed a new starter and alternator. I also installed a "brown wire fix".

You obviously need to go over your work again and triple check

 

[Shylo1988]

When you fitted the starter is it possible a small wire dropped off or was fitted to the wrong terminal.
Sometimes the alternator feed wire is on the same post as the live main wire for the starter. Worth checking.
Another point I have found is the aluminium fuses in the fuse holders corrode and look OK but don't pass power and a quick twist of the individual fuses can show it up. It was common on main beam fuses etc.

As ZaphodB said.....I need to go over everything. I did not know the alternator feed wire & live main wire specs. I will look at those connections.
I double checked the fuses but will purchase new ones just in case.
I really appreciate your help bugsymike. It means a lot. Thank you.

 

[bugsymike]

As ZaphodB said.....I need to go over everything. I did not know the alternator feed wire & live main wire specs. I will look at those connections.
I double checked the fuses but will purchase new ones just in case.
I really appreciate your help bugsymike. It means a lot. Thank you.

It is quite common when working in awkward positions for a wire to drop off un noticed so when reconnecting a main lead it gets left behind, so well worth checking.
Re the fuses, if you have a basic multimeter you can check if the fuses are working without needing to disturb them.
Brass fuses are best as the aluminium ones are well known for building up that white layer of corrosion, also the holders lose their grip over time.

 

[Twink80]

It is quite common when working in awkward positions for a wire to drop off un noticed so when reconnecting a main lead it gets left behind, so well worth checking.
Re the fuses, if you have a basic multimeter you can check if the fuses are working without needing to disturb them.
Brass fuses are best as the aluminium ones are well known for building up that white layer of corrosion, also the holders lose their grip over time.

If you can get hold of a wiring diagram for year, check each of the components you altered. Be methodical and dont make random guesses. If it worked before it is highly likely that if it doesnt work now its a result of your actions intended or unnoticed. Things rarely “just fail”