I have a 1977 124 on which a PO installed an aftermarket electronic fuel pump. I can confirm the car is a 77, but some of the wiring appears to be more that of a '76, such as relays being in the engine compartment and having the green/black wire from the electronic fuel pump running from the trunk to the ignition switch. I have no idea how many people have owned this before I bought it this summer. My issue is that if I turn the key to the OFF position to be able to remove the key, the fuel pump stays on. The only way to have the pump not running is by turning the key approximately 45 degrees to the right from the OFF position. The problem is this locks the key in the ignition so I have to leave the key in it at all times, which is obviously a security issue in parking lots!
I replaced the ignition switch already to rule that out as a potential issue. AutoRicambi sent some good instructions with the switch, but I have more wires than they speak of on the instructions and wonder if anyone on this group has some advice. Here is how I have the wires connected to the terminals on the back of the ignition swicht (which is how it was when I bought it):
15 - Pink (appears original) & Red (new and confirmed to go to new ignition coil)
30/1 - Black (appears original)
INT Spade 1 - Green/Black (runs to electronic fuel pump) & gray (unable to trace)
INT Spade 2 - Blue & Blue/red (not able to fully trace, but lights to not work when disconnected)
30 - Brown (appears orignal)
50 - Red (thick and appears original
Instructions from Auto Ricambi state tech '76 has the green/black wire for the pump which needs to go to a relay attached to the pink wire, but I don't know if that means I use the little "spade spliter" which came with it to attach the green/black wire to the same terminal on the switch. Plus that green/black wire is on the same plug as the gray wire mentioned above. I don't want to fry the new switch or have ruin something down the line by just trying this.
Anyone have any insight or thoughts here? I just need to be able to shut the car off and remove the key with out the fuel pump still running...obvously!
THANKS!!
I replaced the ignition switch already to rule that out as a potential issue. AutoRicambi sent some good instructions with the switch, but I have more wires than they speak of on the instructions and wonder if anyone on this group has some advice. Here is how I have the wires connected to the terminals on the back of the ignition swicht (which is how it was when I bought it):
15 - Pink (appears original) & Red (new and confirmed to go to new ignition coil)
30/1 - Black (appears original)
INT Spade 1 - Green/Black (runs to electronic fuel pump) & gray (unable to trace)
INT Spade 2 - Blue & Blue/red (not able to fully trace, but lights to not work when disconnected)
30 - Brown (appears orignal)
50 - Red (thick and appears original
Instructions from Auto Ricambi state tech '76 has the green/black wire for the pump which needs to go to a relay attached to the pink wire, but I don't know if that means I use the little "spade spliter" which came with it to attach the green/black wire to the same terminal on the switch. Plus that green/black wire is on the same plug as the gray wire mentioned above. I don't want to fry the new switch or have ruin something down the line by just trying this.
Anyone have any insight or thoughts here? I just need to be able to shut the car off and remove the key with out the fuel pump still running...obvously!
- Model
- 124 Spider
- Year
- 1977