Technical Tools required to remove disc calipers

[Aussie500nut]

Hi all

Been reading the posts about binding disc pads on the front of the TAs
Ours has now got 2000kms on the clock, so now would be good time before too much excess wear takes place

I found my jar of copper "never sieze" so now to attack the car
Only problem is that I don't have any Torx tools

Can any one advise what is required to get the brake calipers off ?
Size and if Torx bolts or socket heads ?

TIA

 

[The Twins]

You need an E16 female torx socket for TA calliper bolts. Also always use thread lock compound when re fitting.

Maybe you know this already but if you are using a trolley jack, only jack the car on the chassis outrigger points designed to take the weight. NOT on the rail used for the scissor jack. Also use a block of wood between the jack head and chassis. (Edit: see next post)

Honestly though, I wouldn't bother doing anything unless you are convinced there is binding.

You can check binding by jacking the car up, taking the wheel off and turning the disc. (You will only be able to turn it a small amount, but enough, unless both wheels in the air and in neutral) the disc should be quite easy to move. If it moves easily then there is no binding.
You can check both sides this way.

It's better done with the wheel off as the large diameter of the wheel can make it easier to turn and disguise binding. The disc may just skim the pad when turning but this is normal.

The brake callipers on the TA are different to the 1.2 and the design looks less likely to suffer binding.

Don't make work for yourself ; )

 

[The Twins]

These pics may help to show where to place the jack.
And

 

[bgunn]

If the car is in neutral, you don't need to worry about jacking the whole front up to free both wheels, just do one at a time. Don't work on the car on a jack though, use an axle stand.

If you do need to free off the pads, you'll need a 7mm allen key to unbolt the two slider bolts from the caliper carrier, you don't need to remove the whole carrier from the hub upright.

Judicious application of copper grease (or proper brake antiseize compound is better, actually, as it doesn't dry out like copper grease) to the tips of the pads that slide in the carrier will help. 2000km isn't a lot of miles, so you should be able to clean any dust or light corrosion out with a stiff wire brush.

 

[Aussie500nut]

You need an E16 female torx socket for TA calliper bolts. Also always use thread lock compound when re fitting.

Thank you - whilst out this arvo I got a set of torx drivers and sockets so should be covered
Thread locker noted and thanks again

Maybe you know this already but if you are using a trolley jack, only jack the car on the chassis outrigger points designed to take the weight. NOT on the rail used for the scissor jack. Also use a block of wood between the jack head and chassis. (Edit: see next post).

Have read some of the horror stories of the damage dome by the service guys and had intended to use the car jack and just position floor stands for safety without putting the car's weight on them. In passing, is there a "best" place for the floor stands to go ?

BIG thanks for the photos of the trolley jack

Honestly though, I wouldn't bother doing anything unless you are convinced there is binding. .

Have been a few "grinding" sounds when backing slowly down the drive that I'm not happy with. Also when turning out of our street after braking there seems to be a sound that shouldn't be there, not always, so an inspection is warranted. Also, with the wheels we have I can put my hand through one of the holes and there are grooves on the back of the left disc more so than the right. What ever the outcome it will be worth the peace of mind

The brake calipers on the TA are different to the 1.2 and the design looks less likely to suffer binding.
Don't make work for yourself ; )

Had no idea or means of knowing for that matter, that the brakes are different - assumption was that the TA whilst a bit bigger in diameter, would have the same problems reported here on the forumAnyway, a couple of hours work won't kill me and I'd rather be sure.
Not only that brake pads are $300 here, although that won't be happening as I will get them from the UK

If the car is in neutral, you don't need to worry about jacking the whole front up to free both wheels, just do one at a time. Don't work on the car on a jack though, use an axle stand..

Thanks, will do - but having gone that far will put the copper anti seize on the "ears" of the pads whilst the wheels are off

If you do need to free off the pads, you'll need a 7mm allen key to unbolt the two slider bolts from the caliper carrier, you don't need to remove the whole carrier from the hub upright. .

Thanks for that - really helps to have all the gear you need before you start - my problem is that tools are stored at a remote location about about 6 minutes drive for home and it usually works out that the tool I want is there, not here

Judicious application of copper grease (or proper brake antiseize compound is better, actually, as it doesn't dry out like copper grease) to the tips of the pads that slide in the carrier will help. 2000km isn't a lot of miles, so you should be able to clean any dust or light corrosion out with a stiff wire brush.

Don't have the "proper" brake grease - only copper and nickel anti seize compound.
Usually use the nickel stuff but will use the copper on the brakes.
Hoping the dust and corrosion shouldn't be too bad

Once again, many thanks for your help

 

[bgunn]

Also, with the wheels we have I can put my hand through one of the holes and there are grooves on the back of the left disc more so than the right. What ever the outcome it will be worth the peace of mind

The outer pad has seized in the carrier (as is common) so the pressure from the piston is pushing on the inner which is doing the majority of the braking.

Don't have the "proper" brake grease - only copper and nickel anti seize compound.
Usually use the nickel stuff but will use the copper on the brakes.
Hoping the dust and corrosion shouldn't be too bad

Once again, many thanks for your help

It'll be fine, just slightly less durable, and a bit more inclined to attract dust than the proper brake anti seize..

Good luck with the job, you're saving a lot of grief in the future by maintaining the car like this..

 

[Aussie500nut]

The outer pad has seized in the carrier (as is common) so the pressure from the piston is pushing on the inner which is doing the majority of the braking...

Struth - that didn't take long !!

It'll be fine, just slightly less durable, and a bit more inclined to attract dust than the proper brake anti seize..

Good luck with the job, you're saving a lot of grief in the future by maintaining the car like this..

Thanks bgunn
This forum is really great and your help is appreciated
Was only after reading the warnings that I suspected there might be a problem.
Usually with a new car you expect nothing like this for at least a year or so

 

[bgunn]

I suspect it's one of those save a few quid and a bit of time in the factory and earn a good payback in the service network things; and the issue is not limited to FIATs either.

 

[UFI]

Was only after reading the warnings that I suspected there might be a problem. Usually with a new car you expect nothing like this for at least a year or so

Remember these warnings are for the UK though, where rain salt and snow cause the sliders to corrode. Much less of a problem for us here. It's still a good idea to do, but it's no where near as important. I'd say do it at your lesiure.

 

[Aussie500nut]

Remember these warnings are for the UK though, where rain salt and snow cause the sliders to corrode. Much less of a problem for us here. It's still a good idea to do, but it's no where near as important. I'd say do it at your leisure.

Thanks UFI
Salt and SNOW - can't imagine living in a climate like that - makes me shiver just thinking about it

Now "snow" - that's that white stuff in the freezer isn't it ?
And "salt" - that's the stuff you put on your fish and chips ?

Can't see the connection - how you fit a car in the freezer and why you would drive through fish and chips totally evades me LOL

Here in Queensland, an over night low of 6 degrees is considered COLD
Many years ago went to Threadbo - did the skilift thing and tried skiing.
Was good for a laugh but never been so wet and cold in my life - spent most of the time lying in dam stuff (snow)
Never been back either and that was in 1968.
If for some strange reason I want to see snow, I just open the fridge

Remember these warnings are for the UK though, where rain salt and snow cause the sliders to corrode. Much less of a problem for us here. It's still a good idea to do, but it's no where near as important. I'd say do it at your leisure.

Got the tools now and being retired got nothing on the agenda today
So will have a go when the wife brings the car back from shopping