N
Nico
Guest
(For those of you not unlike myself, that had never attempted anything like this before, but couldn't afford to have it done otherwise, and would prefer to succeed in doing it yourself anyway..)
The windows I was told to expect would not be easy, when suggested that I might tint them myself. Little did I realise just what I was letting myself in for! For my sins I am cursed with being a perfectionist, which means if I can't manage to do something as good as I might like, then I may simply never finish it (story of my life!). But since failure here was not an option, starting with the fronts, I actually removed the glass form the doors (no small fete in itself), and made paper templates before applying the cut sheets.
At first (doubting that it should really be at all difficult) I attempted the task of applying the film (to my window at home) without the use any spray what so ever (needless to say things only got easier from here on in). As the directions clearly state, it is just as vital to spray (water & tiny bit of washing up liquid) the glass, the adhesive side of the foil, AND the inner side of the foil too, before attempting to smooth it flat. And keep spraying the inner surface whilst you continually squeegee too. I had tried, with some glass papered perspex I had fashioned into a kind off improvised squeegee, to perform the smoothing without wetting the topside, but this didn't fail to create heaps of small scratches. (You are all no doubt wondering if I have to do everything the hard way!? )
NOTE. I followed BOO's mod section, but still it took me a good while to figure out that there is a bracket attached to tall side of the glass which was not mentioned in the advice. This meant I had to undo the two bolts holding the (unseen) front vertical guide in place, to be able to maneuver the glass forward as far as poss whilst lifting the front too, to be able to drop and pullout the bracket/window from the bottom of the vertical guide (near the door latch). Adding this unforeseen element to the task of removing the front windows, made the actual job of tinting the easiest part at the end of the day.
The rear quarters were actually harder to tint than the front ones (not what I expected). The problem doing the rear quarters is the hunches you get extending inward from the edges on account of the glass curving in both directions. It's infuriating because you smooth one out and just for a moment its looks fine, until another then appers an inch or two away. Besides trimming the film in advance using a template, the problem here is timing. If you take a small piece of this stuff and peel it off n try putting it on a piece of glass, the stuff sticks instantly (glue comes off on the glass straight away when you peel it off – but washes off with a sponge).
We need the water to be able to easily adjust and position corrctly, and to be able to get all the bubbles out, but you need to have patience enough to keep smoothing out those edges, ideally until the glue drys. However, the instructions suggest this curing process could take up to ten days! As much a problem on the rear windows is the graduating black border. Again, if only the residual moisture beneath didn't retract back under the foil each time you press the edges down, the stuff would stay stuck (instead of being obviously not when you look at it from the outside).
Only way I figured of getting round this was to use a hairdryer (I even had to re-wire the plug on since I'm a bit folically challenged and havn't used it for years and my father had snipped the plug off [why do they do that? He has a bloody bucket full of old plugs..nutter] anyhoo..) so this did the trick. Perhaps too (only occurred to me afterwards) because directing it toward the edges (away from the middle) might assist in contracting / shrinking the foil as it heats up. It worked anyway. As for that border (the graduated black dotty bit), the best thing to do here, is just to wait a day or more, then go round and press it down with your finger.
As for that beautifullly curved rear window, ambition drove me to consider doing it in one, but after much deliberation, I conceded in the end and figured it be easier to do it in two (horizontal) pieces. I was intent not to waste film by trial and error, so it took me all day. I even had to make templates for the templates, before deciding on how best to do it; opting in the end not to precisely cut the final join/seam (along the heat element) before finally applying the film to the glass.
Technique is everything, so it's a very steep learning curve. I dread to think how I might not have coped if I hadn't done templates first. It took me equally as long to fit all the tints, as I spent making the templates in the first place! I suspect no garage on earth would ever go to the lengths I went to (much more precise then really was necessary). So, if any of you were considering giving this ago yourselves, needless to say I'd recommend you do paper cut-outs first before taking a knife to the film. If any of you are guna give it a go too. I'll gladly send you copies of my efforts (including the suntrip – which believe it or not, took me almost as long to template as did the rear door!).
I used light tints on the doors, and after realising just how hard the task was guna be, opted instead for dark on the rear quarters and boot. The sunstrip was done using two ply of the limo tint.
One more tip (..after you've cleaned the glass inside, then outside, then inside again) you've got your pre-trimmed film ready with squeegee and spray gun standing by; use a board as near as poss to the size of the sheet (& the window you are attempting) and rest this on your lap. Spray this top surface too, before laying the foil side of the sheet face down on to it.
When you then remove the adhesive backing that is uppermost (best done – drawn with your palm flat with the backing folded completely over on itself - once you ‘ve managed to peel an edge!) the film will remain flat (temporarily kept on the board by the action of the water) and it should not curl up or fold back on itself - otherwise causing catastrophe!
Then you spray the glass, then peel the film, then spray the exposed adhesive side (soak it!..or you get cloudiness), then spray the non adhesive side again once offered up against the glass before repeatedly squeegeeing and spraying yet more. Oh, and wear a cap and a long sleeve top when you do it (trust me – one rogue hair is all it takes to spoil what might otherwise be a perfect job). Easy eh!?
The windows I was told to expect would not be easy, when suggested that I might tint them myself. Little did I realise just what I was letting myself in for! For my sins I am cursed with being a perfectionist, which means if I can't manage to do something as good as I might like, then I may simply never finish it (story of my life!). But since failure here was not an option, starting with the fronts, I actually removed the glass form the doors (no small fete in itself), and made paper templates before applying the cut sheets.
At first (doubting that it should really be at all difficult) I attempted the task of applying the film (to my window at home) without the use any spray what so ever (needless to say things only got easier from here on in). As the directions clearly state, it is just as vital to spray (water & tiny bit of washing up liquid) the glass, the adhesive side of the foil, AND the inner side of the foil too, before attempting to smooth it flat. And keep spraying the inner surface whilst you continually squeegee too. I had tried, with some glass papered perspex I had fashioned into a kind off improvised squeegee, to perform the smoothing without wetting the topside, but this didn't fail to create heaps of small scratches. (You are all no doubt wondering if I have to do everything the hard way!? )
NOTE. I followed BOO's mod section, but still it took me a good while to figure out that there is a bracket attached to tall side of the glass which was not mentioned in the advice. This meant I had to undo the two bolts holding the (unseen) front vertical guide in place, to be able to maneuver the glass forward as far as poss whilst lifting the front too, to be able to drop and pullout the bracket/window from the bottom of the vertical guide (near the door latch). Adding this unforeseen element to the task of removing the front windows, made the actual job of tinting the easiest part at the end of the day.
The rear quarters were actually harder to tint than the front ones (not what I expected). The problem doing the rear quarters is the hunches you get extending inward from the edges on account of the glass curving in both directions. It's infuriating because you smooth one out and just for a moment its looks fine, until another then appers an inch or two away. Besides trimming the film in advance using a template, the problem here is timing. If you take a small piece of this stuff and peel it off n try putting it on a piece of glass, the stuff sticks instantly (glue comes off on the glass straight away when you peel it off – but washes off with a sponge).
We need the water to be able to easily adjust and position corrctly, and to be able to get all the bubbles out, but you need to have patience enough to keep smoothing out those edges, ideally until the glue drys. However, the instructions suggest this curing process could take up to ten days! As much a problem on the rear windows is the graduating black border. Again, if only the residual moisture beneath didn't retract back under the foil each time you press the edges down, the stuff would stay stuck (instead of being obviously not when you look at it from the outside).
Only way I figured of getting round this was to use a hairdryer (I even had to re-wire the plug on since I'm a bit folically challenged and havn't used it for years and my father had snipped the plug off [why do they do that? He has a bloody bucket full of old plugs..nutter] anyhoo..) so this did the trick. Perhaps too (only occurred to me afterwards) because directing it toward the edges (away from the middle) might assist in contracting / shrinking the foil as it heats up. It worked anyway. As for that border (the graduated black dotty bit), the best thing to do here, is just to wait a day or more, then go round and press it down with your finger.
As for that beautifullly curved rear window, ambition drove me to consider doing it in one, but after much deliberation, I conceded in the end and figured it be easier to do it in two (horizontal) pieces. I was intent not to waste film by trial and error, so it took me all day. I even had to make templates for the templates, before deciding on how best to do it; opting in the end not to precisely cut the final join/seam (along the heat element) before finally applying the film to the glass.
Technique is everything, so it's a very steep learning curve. I dread to think how I might not have coped if I hadn't done templates first. It took me equally as long to fit all the tints, as I spent making the templates in the first place! I suspect no garage on earth would ever go to the lengths I went to (much more precise then really was necessary). So, if any of you were considering giving this ago yourselves, needless to say I'd recommend you do paper cut-outs first before taking a knife to the film. If any of you are guna give it a go too. I'll gladly send you copies of my efforts (including the suntrip – which believe it or not, took me almost as long to template as did the rear door!).
I used light tints on the doors, and after realising just how hard the task was guna be, opted instead for dark on the rear quarters and boot. The sunstrip was done using two ply of the limo tint.
One more tip (..after you've cleaned the glass inside, then outside, then inside again) you've got your pre-trimmed film ready with squeegee and spray gun standing by; use a board as near as poss to the size of the sheet (& the window you are attempting) and rest this on your lap. Spray this top surface too, before laying the foil side of the sheet face down on to it.
When you then remove the adhesive backing that is uppermost (best done – drawn with your palm flat with the backing folded completely over on itself - once you ‘ve managed to peel an edge!) the film will remain flat (temporarily kept on the board by the action of the water) and it should not curl up or fold back on itself - otherwise causing catastrophe!
Then you spray the glass, then peel the film, then spray the exposed adhesive side (soak it!..or you get cloudiness), then spray the non adhesive side again once offered up against the glass before repeatedly squeegeeing and spraying yet more. Oh, and wear a cap and a long sleeve top when you do it (trust me – one rogue hair is all it takes to spoil what might otherwise be a perfect job). Easy eh!?
